Ok I see. Good info there.The 2015 stuff wont work.
VMP sell the wire for the sensor, but they state....
"Long IAT harness only for 11-14 5.0L with connector to tie-into PCM for IAT2 signal, one wire has a PCM terminal crimped on the end. The other wire is bare to tie into the reference voltage. See pics for instructions on installation, this is based on calibrating the car with a strategy that supports the IAT2 signal.
If your strategy only supports the IAT1 that is built into the MAF sensor then you will need to replace the wire in pin 47 with this one and tap the reference wire into pin 2."
But this explains it better
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/iat2-pcm-how-to.1120255/
And this has a drawing
https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...hose-wanting-to-do-this.947809/#post-13238868
The MAF is capable of reading over 10, mine has been 10.3 I think with the stock airbox which is roughly a 100-107mm housing. There is probably a max value allowed somewhere in the tune. When I get home I will look at it. Which pulley you running and how many lbs/min of air at the pegging point?I need some help from some of the self tuners, but before I go on I want to clarify a few things. I will state that although not easy, I was able to dial the 170MM Whipple TB on the tune, I will be part of the guys that say a good tuner will dial in a Monoblade just fine. Albeit I had to raise idle to 700RPMs but so far so good.
The problem is the amount of time it requires to dial it in, it could be unreasonable. You also need to a tuner that has the DBW value files for that specific TB, If you find a Tuner that tells you don't get one its because he does not have the value files or does not want to spend the time on it. Which its totally understandable.
Next,
Fueling in this car is all set. But I was suggested to add more timing since the knock sensor is actually adding spark -3. But noticed a little issue when I looked at the log in Livewire. The Roush 110MM pegged on this car, at 6900rpms to 7300rpms which is where I stopped the pull, I noticed the MAF stopped updating, at the nice round number of 10. So yes the Roush CAI did not work as intended, I did not think this car was going to move that much air. But since the Roush CAI vs JLT and now PMAS debate there has been ppl saying the Roush 110MM does not support high 500WHP but some others are going past 600whp.
Which leads me to ask. So is this accomplished by scaling? Has anybody scaled the MAF on the copperhead strategies with success? I need just a little wiggle room here, I don't want to get a different CAI since this one takes it to 6900RPMs and I plan shifting right above 7000Rpms. Some thought on this is appreciated.
The MAF is capable of reading over 10, mine has been 10.3 I think with the stock airbox which is roughly a 100-107mm housing. There is probably a max value allowed somewhere in the tune. When I get home I will look at it. Which pulley you running and how many lbs/min of air at the pegging point?
Which pulley? On good 93, if it's 3.25-3.375" you should be good at 15 deg baseline and let the tune add 1 or 2 more. After that, you'd be getting aggressive.How about spark what's the typical commanded for 93 octane, spark was 13deg throughout the pull which is is what's being commanded, but knock the sensor was adding -3 from 3k to about 5k then it was 0 for the rest of the way, no knock.
I can't find a good reason to go over 13deg are others tuning to 0knock or letting the computer add timing?
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And yeah, adjust the table at the top end so it will measure and adjust above 10khtz. Might have to play with it, but you won't need much since the MAF curve should be pretty steep up there.77.06lbs/min
You might be on to something the stock tune frequency table has 12,000Hz but my tune is set to stop at 10,000Hz
How about spark what's the typical commanded for 93 octane, spark was 13deg throughout the pull which is is what's being commanded, but knock the sensor was adding -3 from 3k to about 5k then it was 0 for the rest of the way, no knock.
I can't find a good reason to go over 13deg are others tuning to 0knock or letting the computer add timing?
My initial base tune was 14 degrees. Its on 19 (thats what is commanded) now with good 93 and no meth.
My 2011 GT has the FRPP kit it works well. It had a 2.875 pulley on it when I got the carvbut currently a 3.125. JLT 127mm intake and stock TB. ARH longtubes and full exhaust. Limiter is at 6800. It made 590rwhp with 3.125 and tune by Dez I believe. 620ish with 2.875 with tune from Mustang Magic which wasn't the best but apparently safe it has 84k miles 60k of which with the sc.
Your long tubes are helping a bunch. Still haven’t dynoed but your tuner did ok by limiting you to 6800rpm on 47# you will go super lean past that. I just turned timing down. But still have revs to 7500 for oil pump gears sake. Great mileage count on your set up glad it can take a beating.
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I have ID1000, forgot to mention that.
I also noticed I can't via IAT2 either.