Snapped my crankshaft into 2 pieces - Need Advice

Fuerig

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BOOM!

I broke my crankshaft into a few pieces ( or at least I am pretty positive I did). My crankshaft shaft is as far north as it can be and is not centered. I have decided to be a Frankenstein and go with a 5.0 swap and attach a TVS and run less boost on higher compression. My questions are as follows :

1. Will my 2011 Shelby heads fit on a 5.0 and if so are they better or worse than the factory 5.0 heads?
2. With the gauge clusters being almost the same will the wiring harness be a simple plug and play?
3. I know my tr6060 will bolt right up and I know I'll have to change out my exhaust but are there any other obvious differences I am missing such as cooling fans and other misc parts?
4. I am going to enjoy less nose weight with the engine swap and I will enjoy less torque but how much more effective will this actually be than replacing it with a built block?


Need some advice and answers. Thanks ahead of time to you Guru's of Mustangs.
 
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Catmonkey

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Heads will not interchange. The 5.0 has uses variable cam timing and the GT500 does not, so those parameters are not in your PCM. I would think you're going to have to find a 5.0 PCM to pull off this swap. I think it would be cheaper to put together a built 5.8 short block and bolt your old heads on it. That's what I did.
 

Fuerig

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Heads will not interchange. The 5.0 has uses variable cam timing and the GT500 does not, so those parameters are not in your PCM. I would think you're going to have to find a 5.0 PCM to pull off this swap. I think it would be cheaper to put together a built 5.8 short block and bolt your old heads on it. That's what I did.

Yea I have been considering it, however, I just got extremely excited when I thought about less weight on the nose.
 

NightRide

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What were the details on how it broke? The 5.0 motor with a blower, cooling and all the added parts I think the weight savings would be a wash.
 

Fuerig

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What were the details on how it broke? The 5.0 motor with a blower, cooling and all the added parts I think the weight savings would be a wash.

I was doing a 3rd and 4th gear pull and something went wrong. I have no idea what caused it, I am not sure if timing had jumped a tooth and was off or if a bad crank balancer caused the issue. I have it torn down to a heads and block right now and I will be pulling it shortly to inspect the block for damage.
 

rotor_powerd

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I have a crank and block for you. Block needs a hone to clean up some melted piston on cylinder 8, but you'll need that regardless. You'll just be a set of rods and pistons away from a built motor. :rockon:
 

stkjock

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Much less costly option would be a new 5.4 or 5.8 block.

also the 5.4l amped 5.8l will hold more power and boost than a stock coyote block.

If u get a custom short block u can do a higher CR as long as u have the right fuel and supply with a good tune you will be GTG
 

12gt500

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i respect that you are wanting to do something different. but that being said it almost seems like you are going backwards. i know that the coyote makes good power and has a great potential for extreme power. but its a gt500 man not a gt. just my opinion.
 

nxhappy

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you are heading in the wrong direction my friend....why not put a 5.8 in there ? :)
 

me32

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op your wasting money doing a 5.0 swap in the Shelby.

1. you will need a crate motor. with all the wiring harness and PCM
2. you will devalue the car by more than half
3. the 5.4/5.8 make more power than a 5.0 that's not built.

if you really like the 5.0 trade your Shelby in as is and buy a 11-14 5.0.
 

JimIII@jdm

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Please share with us what you find, I have never heard of a crank snapping in half anywhere near the power levels your at. These Cranks will support 2000+ HP, I think its most likely a balancer failure. I've seen the stock balancer go if the rubber inside pushes out or the keyway breaks.
 

rotor_powerd

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Please share with us what you find, I have never heard of a crank snapping in half anywhere near the power levels your at. These Cranks will support 2000+ HP, I think its most likely a balancer failure. I've seen the stock balancer go if the rubber inside pushes out or the keyway breaks.

It's almost certainly a balancer related failure. I'm curious to see where it is broken at.
 

brandonflood123

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my buddy just got a fully forged and sleeved 5.4l with forged internals for like 3500$. he lost his 5.8, and is swapping the heads over to the new short block. your best bet is to find a short block they can be had for cheap, well cheaper then a 5.0 swap. and you still retain the displacement these cars come with. he may be selling his 5.8 block. i just needs to be sleeved and you will need a rotating assembly. block has no holes in it, he just scuffed the lining.
 

JimIII@jdm

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my buddy just got a fully forged and sleeved 5.4l with forged internals for like 3500$. he lost his 5.8, and is swapping the heads over to the new short block. your best bet is to find a short block they can be had for cheap, well cheaper then a 5.0 swap. and you still retain the displacement these cars come with. he may be selling his 5.8 block. i just needs to be sleeved and you will need a rotating assembly. block has no holes in it, he just scuffed the lining.

Tell your buddy to contact me about his old 5.8L block, we may have interest in buying it.

JimIII
732-780-0770
 

19COBRA93

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Don't take this the wrong way, but if you don't even know the heads aren't interchangeable, I don't think you have the knowledge to attempt a swap to a 5.0L. An engine swap is a BIG job, ask me how I know.

Also, how did you determine it's the crank?
 

Tob

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