So can the short block itself stay stock? Is that where the cost increase comes from?
So what is the best way for 700rwhp?
- Thread starter Snkbyte
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That is a terrible response. All he has to do learn.
Learning = Searching = hours and hours of reading over the net = then comes to ask specific answers = thankyouhaveagoodday
ninjastang
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use the force young jedi.
Then you really shouldn't be here. No one is forcing you to answer questions. Why did you log in in the first place if helping is such a hassle?
What is the best way to get 700rwhp on a Terminator
"Best" leaves it pretty open. The 03/04 Cobra motor will handle that stock, so all you need to do is upgrade the fuel system and then add the power adder(s) of choice.
The scenario I posted earlier really happened. 2.8H KB twin screw on the stock motor, it made 700, but then shredded the belt. It was fairly cheap in theory in that it was "only" a few grand for the KB and it's a direct replacement. But add in the cost of all the little parts to get it running right, and you're near turbo territory. (That particular car is now getting twin turbos).
You could also just do a baby twin screw and spray it on top of that, but two power adders could mean twice the headache. Plus with nitrous, you'll have to keep refilling the bottle, so it's not very cost effective in the long run. (Depending how much you use it of course
Turbos would be your best bet in my opinion. Yes the kit is more expensive (HPP Racing here in DFW makes one for 10K all in, whereas the twin screws are in the 3-4K range + fuel). But once it's on there, you can turn it down to 5-600, or up to over 1000 (still on the stock motor.)
It really just depends hwo much you want to spend and which headache you'd prefer. And then don't forget about the drivetrain upgrades...as I understand it the input shaft on the T-56 doesn't like 7-800+ and speed/powershifting.
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bruitally honest would be more like it.
Im not being an ass, but honestly man are you serious? You can get to 700hp a bunch of differnet ways. Spray/Stock blower + spray/ported stock blower + spray/ KB or Whipple + Spray/ BIG Kb or Big Whipple/ Turbo/ Twin Turbo/ect ect
And as far as turbo, take a few days reading up about turbos and you will see what i mean. There is soooo much to learn about any perticular setup its crazy.
Really? I thought it had to at least be ported...:shrug:
Wow finally thats all that I was asking, thanks for the info.
I know I would have to upgrade the drivetrain for sure. I was only making a little over 500 to the wheels with my old Cobra so there was really no need.
So if I go turbo then it comes down to single or twin? I would really like to leave the short block alone. I am willing to spend some cash, I would just like to not spend more then 12 grand on the set up.
The one thing I like about the turbos is you can change your power level without ever leaving the comfort of your drivers seat. Just turn the boost up or down, in some cases flash your other tune, and go like hell.
If you do a big twin screw with all the supporting mods, your going to be getting close to the cost of a basic twin turbo kit. Don't do what I did and go all out on a twin screw setup just to still want the turbos. Ended up selling that car and getting a twin turbo car. Then after a few months, I wanted more. sold the turbo kit, motor, and most supporting mods and starting over.
If you think you want the turbos, go ahead and skip the twin screw route. Otherwise you'll keep wanting the turbos even after you spend your money on the twin screw. No need in doing it twice. Good luck!
If you do a big twin screw with all the supporting mods, your going to be getting close to the cost of a basic twin turbo kit. Don't do what I did and go all out on a twin screw setup just to still want the turbos. Ended up selling that car and getting a twin turbo car. Then after a few months, I wanted more. sold the turbo kit, motor, and most supporting mods and starting over.
If you think you want the turbos, go ahead and skip the twin screw route. Otherwise you'll keep wanting the turbos even after you spend your money on the twin screw. No need in doing it twice. Good luck!
If you watch what you do, you can do a twin turbo setup for $12k. Especially if you buy a used kit or find someone who changed their mind after buying a kit. :beer:
Thanks, like I stated I want to do it right this time around. I like the fact that I could have 700++ HP then turn it down if I wanted. That would be nice. Now I just have to figure out if I want twin or a single turbo.
Call HPP and get their twin kit. It includes fuel, suspension, everything. Just add install and tuning for the final price.
Cool. What is the big differences between the twin and single turbo cars, besides the obvious single one and twin two turbos?
Fabrication and fitment issues. Both variants suck but as far as hotside fabrication (IE headers and exhaust) but going single is gonna be alot of work. both banks would need to meet as one into the turbo then out again.
I would go with twin bb50 trims. We have a 4.6L, each bank would equal roughtly 2.3L of displacment. Me being a DSMer, thats a stroker combo and a bb50 or 60 trim works well on that, so just double it. If you wanted to use a single turbo, it would have to be very large, and finding somewhere to fit it and all the hardware required would becoem an issue. I just saw a while back someone put twins and had the compressor inlet mounted perfectly to where they were at the front brake duct openings. badass. the route the wastegates to a side dump on each side of the car so when you hit full boost and start to gate to the atmosphere, **** making babies cry, it would make grown men cry for their momma.
the great thing about turbo's is they make equal or more airflow at the same pressure levels. Airflow = power, not PSI, psi is just how hard the turbos have to work to move a given amount of airflow. That being said, PSI is also what usually kills motors and head gaskets. If a Twin-Screw takes 20psi to make 60lbs/min of airflow, and twin 50trims can push 65lbs/min at 15psi, the twins will make more power. rule of thumb, lbs/min x 10 = rough whp estimate. at a lower psi, you are putting less strain on the motor while making more power. The stock terminator rotating assembly is pretty stout if tuned correctly.
Plus if you can fabricate yourself, that woudl be TT for me instantly. not to mention you can sell your stock blower, heat exchanger/intercooler and all related bullshit and that would probably pay for one turbo, and you just have to find the other ~1200 for the next, and say another $1000 for raw materials (piping, n/a cobra intake, fittings, SS braided tubing, oil feeds and return, coolant feed and returns, etc), youll still need support (injectors, fmic, maf extender, fuel pumps, etc) but if you can do it all yourself, you would probably come in at or a little bit more above the cost of a brand new 3.4L Whipple alone without the additional support. If you cant fabricate, the **** that, cause its labor intensive and all the Turbo Kits are major spendy spendy.
Thanks a lot. I do plan on doing the install myself, so the less headache the better. I was looking at the Hellion twin setup and it looked pretty nice. I am going to do a bit more research on this, but it looks like twin turbo is the way to go.
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