Sorry for the stupid question, but do you also apply the wrap to the door jambs, underside of hood and truck and other places like under gas cap so that no yellow will ever show?:shrug:
it isnt cheap, but it is more durable for rock chips etc and more consisntent as far as the satin finish goes compared to paint. when doing a satin paint job the clear has to be laid down PERFECT and if you screw a fender or bumper up plan on painting the whole car again as matching the consistency/pressure/etc is near impossible. the wrap could just be re wrapped on whatever panel has the damage on.
the vinyl, for the right stuff ranges anywhere between $600-$1200 per car for material only. it's a 15 year vinyl, but that is for elements year around, im confident that along with being applied properly it will last essentially forever with it only being driven in good weather and being garaged.
you CAN wrap the jams/engine bay/trunk liner etc but that would nearly double the labor cost if not more as that is a lot trickier than the nice smooth panels.
i am debating on just scuffing and rattle canning my jams and what not but i may just leave it as it's no show car, and im really the only one that see's any of that. i am getting a custom paint scheme o the under side of my hood done as well, i think it will look pretty sweet.
as far as the 30psi tune the dyno wouldnt load the car for any more boost, and i ran out of fuel with the twin 255 walbro's last year. the car has been down, and even on 20psi is a definite handful to drive, i have replaced the pump to a magnafuel 750 and plan on doing some street tuning as there really isn't any other smart way to tune it on more boost. you can load the dyno with the brake but i don't really like that idea. the turbo im running should be good for about 1150 to the wheel or so, and i plan on maxing it out so im thinkig that's what my final numbers will be, just depends what the motor makes the turbo work for boost wise...