Stripped exhaust manifold thread

[claybeatz]

Hey guys I need some help here.. after getting my headers installed the shop that did them used some random bolt that apparently wasn’t quite the right thread. It kept backing out leaving me with a nice leak and so naturally I went to tighten it, however I didn’t even get a chance to torque it as it doesn’t even thread anymore. Anybody have a recommendation of a shop in the Bay Area that can help me sort this out?

Thanks

 

[hotcobra03]

How long is the bolt now?

Longer bolt may work.

 

[claybeatz]

How long is the bolt now?

Longer bolt may work.

It’s super short, probably about 3/4 of an inch. That’s literally the longest that would fit into the header the way the pipes bend

 

[HPLouis]

The shop needs to fix it and fix it right. To be honest, I wouldn't trust them anymore. Show them what they did and you don't trust them and that you're going to take it to a shop that has expertise in Time Serts and have them fix it and the original shop pays.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

with the wrong bolt it may well not work but if you can get to it can always try running a tap for the correct threads in there and see if the correct bolt will bite. I had a stud break off in the head and the threads were pretty rough/partially stripped. I was pleasantly surprised the tap was able to clean it up well enough for a new bolt to bite

 

[hotcobra03]

It’s super short, probably about 3/4 of an inch. That’s literally the longest that would fit into the header the way the pipes bend

Short bolts , stud should have been left instead.

If I recall threads in head are deep ,

I have 1 hard bolt ,cylinder 7
I had to do that 1 first with having bolt in header.

Same problem, bend in tube

 

[railroad]

Do not use a tap. Use a thread chaser. A tap will cut metal out of the hole.
Some times the header flange has to be held away from the head surface and the bolt tightened allowing the header flange to move closer as the bolt length goes into the head. Other bolts on the same header will have to be started as the physical spacing allows.
A stud is a good option. The stud length needs to allow for gasket thickness. Use a steel lock nut.

 

[claybeatz]

The shop needs to fix it and fix it right. To be honest, I wouldn't trust them anymore. Show them what they did and you don't trust them and that you're going to take it to a shop that has expertise in Time Serts and have them fix it and the original shop pays.

That’s what I’m thinking too. Only3 days before it started leaking, I tightened the bolt and it stopped leaking for two weeks. Now it’s fully stripped probably from the vibration or being such a short random bolt. And no I did not overtorque the bolt

 

[dale.baker]

Hey guys I need some help here.. after getting my headers installed the shop that did them used some random bolt that apparently wasn’t quite the right thread. It kept backing out leaving me with a nice leak and so naturally I went to tighten it, however I didn’t even get a chance to torque it as it doesn’t even thread anymore. Anybody have a recommendation of a shop in the Bay Area that can help me sort this out?

Thanks

I would not trust the work that has been done by the first shop. Lets hit a home run the first time instead of creating a continuous problem that never gets fixed and takes the joy out of your new headers. I would do the following:

1. Support the engine and drop the K-Member sub frame from the car. Trust me this is way faster and will give you a much better working environment to be successful.
2. Remove all of the bolts that were installed by the first shop and throw them in the trash. Be careful not to damage the expensive Ford OEM header gaskets.
3. Chase all holes with a flat bottom tap not a tapered tap to clean all of the usable threads.
4. Address any holes with stripped threads. If I remember correctly there is a lot of meat around those holes to drill the hole out and rethread it to the next size up. Make sure you thoroughly clean all of the shavings from tapping the holes with compressed air.
5. Purchase the correct ARP header studs and nuts for your application. No grade 5 hardware nonsense here! Apply a very small amount of anitseize tp the studs. Install until the stud bottoms out and loosen it 1/4 turn for expansion of the new hardware.
6. Torque to spec and reverse these steps until complete.

Hope this helps.

 

[Poisonous West]

I would not trust the work that has been done by the first shop. Lets hit a home run the first time instead of creating a continuous problem that never gets fixed and takes the joy out of your new headers. I would do the following:

1. Support the engine and drop the K-Member sub frame from the car. Trust me this is way faster and will give you a much better working environment to be successful.
2. Remove all of the bolts that were installed by the first shop and throw them in the trash. Be careful not to damage the expensive Ford OEM header gaskets.
3. Chase all holes with a flat bottom tap not a tapered tap to clean all of the usable threads.
4. Address any holes with stripped threads. If I remember correctly there is a lot of meat around those holes to drill the hole out and rethread it to the next size up. Make sure you thoroughly clean all of the shavings from tapping the holes with compressed air.
5. Purchase the correct ARP header studs and nuts for your application. No grade 5 hardware nonsense here! Apply a very small amount of anitseize tp the studs. Install until the stud bottoms out and loosen it 1/4 turn for expansion of the new hardware.
6. Torque to spec and reverse these steps until complete.

Hope this helps.

Dale is right. You got to do it (repair) correctly this time or the same problem will keep coming back every other week.

I did the ARH LT header installation myself and remove the passenger side header twice for easy access clutch installations and NEVER have any exhaust leak. Most of the shop out there REALLY don't know what they're doing. Ford factory exhaust nuts are actually locking nuts mean they don't back out under vibration. Always use the locking nut on header instead of a bolt UNLESS is the (Stage 8) bolts with the anti rotation features.

 

[claybeatz]

Thank you guys for all of the help here!

 

[claybeatz]

Follow up: shop is going to make it right, uninstall and reinstall the headers with locking bolts as well. Questions for you guys: how bad is it to drive with a leak between the motor and headers? This is my daily and I have to drive it to work..

 

[2011 gtcs]

Follow up: shop is going to make it right, uninstall and reinstall the headers with locking bolts as well. Questions for you guys: how bad is it to drive with a leak between the motor and headers? This is my daily and I have to drive it to work..

Just be easy on her, it'll be fine.

 

[claybeatz]

Just be easy on her, it'll be fine.

Thanks dude.

 

[claybeatz]

just an update, got the cylinder head thread repaired, machined the headers so they were completely flat, used stage 8 bolts and the gasket that came with the kit instead of oem and the problem is now fixed.

 

[hotcobra03]

just an update, got the cylinder head thread repaired, machined the headers so they were completely flat, used stage 8 bolts and the gasket that came with the kit instead of oem and the problem is now fixed.

Gasket. Was it metal?

Oem steel works best imo,

I used the paper gasket when installing,,lasted a week before blowing ,,

Went back to oem and never a leak again

 

[claybeatz]

Gasket. Was it metal?

Oem steel works best imo,

I used the paper gasket when installing,,lasted a week before blowing ,,

Went back to oem and never a leak again

Well we will see lol because I just inspected the work the shop did and they did not put the locking clips onto the stage 8 bolts wtf man

 

[2011 gtcs]

Well we will see lol because I just inspected the work the shop did and they did not put the locking clips onto the stage 8 bolts wtf man

I used regular header bolts JDM sent me on my engine, so far no issues, but at least you got it fixed. I know that was a nightmare.

 

[claybeatz]

I used regular header bolts JDM sent me on my engine, so far no issues, but at least you got it fixed. I know that was a nightmare.

Everything looks like it was done right but my ocd had me trippin for a sec when I noticed the tear drops weren’t on there. No leaks after 3 days so far with many WOT pulls. Thanks for making me feel better!