Suspension setup help

[OSUALUM78]

So I've done a lot of reading, found a lot of answers, but after so many point and clicks, my brain got fried with info and trying to re-find the pages I've visited over the last few months well.... has become exhausting, besides the fact I'm confused on exactly what I need.


I'm looking for someone to list the specific parts I should be getting and to fill in the blanks of missing parts I don't have on my list.

First; my current suspension form = 100% stock
Second, my current wheel/tire combo = 100% stock sizing

My plan on wheel/tires: to go to 18x9F and either 18x10R or 18x10.5R with 265/35/18 and 305/35/18 size tires, respectively
My Termi is a warm weather driver and will continue to be so. Right now she has seen no track time, but will in the future (some track time, not much though; both drag and twisty tracks).

I have sitting in my living room: one set of H&R Race Springs

My suspension plan (and any related parts that may affect the suspension setup):

- Install H&R Race Springs

And.....


Order

- FTBR IRS bushing kit and ___________? What else do I need from them? What exactly are the parts (bushings and others) do I need? They have two kits that I see, and lots of other suspension parts not in the kits, and I'm not sure what I need.

- FTBR 13" HD 2 piece slotted front brake rotors

- FTBR 13" conversion 2 piece slotted rear brake rotors

- stainless steel brake lines

- either Hawk or EBC pads

- DSS Level 5 halfshafts

- LPW diff cover/brace (is the new Ford Racing reinforced IRS diff cover from FTBR worth anything? Over the LPW?)

- Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates (Which ones? I read somewhere that there is a set for the OEM Bilsteins and a set for non-OEM shocks/struts?) If I have the H&R Race Springs, do I need different shocks/struts due to the amount of drop? What happens if I don't need to get new shocks/struts because of the H&R's, but say 20k miles down the road I do need new shocks/struts? Am I stuck with Bilsteins if I get the 'OEM' MM CC plates?

- Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors [black powdercoated, to be welded in (weld area to be grinded down so it can be welded)]



Did I miss any other specific parts needs to tackle the suspension to get rid of wheel hop and handle more power (my end plan is to be over 600 rwhp/rwtq), and deal with the H&R Race Springs drop?

Please help on my parts list. I know I am missing critical parts (do I need a bumpsteer or Steeda X2 ball joints? IRS subframe mounts? Toe link bars? Low profile IRS bolt?) I am sure I am missing lots of 'small' parts and other tips and tricks for some of this stuff (like I remember reading I will need to grind off the raised 'LPW' on their diff cover to make it fit)?



Thanks


:beer:

 

[03cobraaa]

If your planning on doing all of this, I personally would first..

Remove your IRS and install the FTBR bushings and also get the newer Ford Racing diff cover. I would also think about getting the Billetflow IRS Brace to. With all of this it will drastically help with wheel hop.

I was looking into getting the DSS Level 5 halfshafts as well for mine (since i just snapped a shaft), until most of the guys on here drove me away from it. Only because in getting the bushings/diff cover/brace in order, it will cut down the need for $1500 halfshafts. The are high horsepower cars with stock half shafts. It is just the battle of getting the wheel hop to go away.

If you have your stock struts/shocks you can order the MM caster/camber plates for Bilsteins right off of MM.

 

[OSUALUM78]

If your planning on doing all of this, I personally would first..

Remove your IRS and install the FTBR bushings and also get the newer Ford Racing diff cover. I would also think about getting the Billetflow IRS Brace to. With all of this it will drastically help with wheel hop.

I was looking into getting the DSS Level 5 halfshafts as well for mine (since i just snapped a shaft), until most of the guys on here drove me away from it. Only because in getting the bushings/diff cover/brace in order, it will cut down the need for $1500 halfshafts. The are high horsepower cars with stock half shafts. It is just the battle of getting the wheel hop to go away.

If you have your stock struts/shocks you can order the MM caster/camber plates for Bilsteins right off of MM.

1. Thanks for the reply.
2. Not to say you are wrong, because by no means am I anywhere near a pro or even amateur when it comes to mechanics (and more specifically IRS), but your opinion on not needing the Level 5 half shafts seems to be in the minority from what I've read on here. Again, not that you are wrong, but you are the first I've seen to come out and say that with 600+ at the tires, Level 5's aren't needed, even with a IRS bushing kit and diff brace.
3. Even with a proper/good IRS bushing kit, wouldn't the Level 5 half shafts be good insurance vs. dealing with a broken shaft and other broken parts that a broken half shaft would cause (expensive insurance at that). I picked up the Gen 2 head cooling mod even though I don't have the head tick for this very reason.
4. Why the FRPP diff cover and BF brace above the LPW? From my research on here, I've pretty much decided on the LPW being better than the BF brace, but FTBR sells the FRPP diff cover, so I figure there's a reason on why they promote/sell that vs. the other options out there. Why exactly they sell the FRPP over promoting or selling others, only they know. I guess I'm confused on the diff cover brace/support options....
5. I know I can get the MM CC plates for the Bilsteins or Tokikos, etc, but I was reading on the MM site that there are 2 versions of CC plates that will work for the 03/04 Cobra. One for the OEM Bilsteins (MMCC0304) and one for non-OEM Bilsteins (MMCC994):

MMCC0304:
Maximum Motorsports 2003-04 Mustang Caster Camber Plates, black powdercoat finish. For original equipment Bilstein struts. MM 4-bolt c/c plates provide independent adjustment of camber and caster.

Fits
* 2003-04 Cobra with the original Bilstein struts
* All 1994-04 Mustangs with OEM 2003-04 Bilstein struts.
Unlike other MM caster camber plates, bumpstops are not included, because Bilstein struts have their own internal bumpstops.
* Ford equipped the 2003-04 Cobras with Bilstein struts. The OEM dustcovers fitted to those struts are not compatible with our standard C/C Plates (MMCC9994). The new MMCC0304 kit includes suitable dustcovers.
* While originally intended for 2003-04 Cobras, these C/C Plates (MMCC0304) will fit any 1994-04 Mustang using Bilstein, MM Sport, or MM Race series front struts.
* There are only two differences between these C/C Plates and our MMCC9994 C/C Plates: The inclusion of dust boots, and the omission of our urethane bumpstops. The bumpstops are omitted because Bilstein and MM struts have internal bumpstops.



My question on the CC plates is, I currently have the OEM Bilsteins and plan to keep them, but if in the future (due to use deems it, or a decision to change for my own reasons) I decide to go away from Bilstein, say Tokikos or some other brand, which CC plates should I get? Can I only get the MMCC0304 right now because I have the OEM Bilsteins on, then if I switch away from the OEM Bilsteins I'd have to get the MMCC9994 ones?


Thanks
and keep the replies coming
I plan on ordering up my FTBR kit and brakes before Dec ends
also which FTBR kit/parts should I get?

:beer:

 

[eaglesnick]

Lots of info here to try and help you with.

As for the level 5s I agree with 03cobraaa, I don't think you need to spend the money on them. There are a lot of high HP cars running the stockers and if you eliminate the hop you chances of breaking one go way down. However if you have the spare $1600+ then knock yourself out, but don't think it's needed. I would personally forgo the level 5s and replace the stock shocks and struts to better match your new springs.

As for the FTBR kit, does your car have the 80 mph Vibe? If so order the FT-5001 which includes the Delrin Isolated Rear Differential Lowering Mount to allow you to adjust the pinion angle and eliminate/minimize the vibe. As for the FFRP diff cover they sell that unit because it works with their Delrin Isolated Rear Differential Lowering Mount, not sure if it works with the other covers, plus I don't believe you need a brace with any of the aftermarket covers, that's the reason for replacing it.

Rear Diff Hard Mount

Along with the FT-5001 I would order the FT-1860 and FT-1900 along with the bushing removal tool and pinion angle finder if your installer doesn't have them.

As for the MM camber/caster plates I believe they will work with all after market struts, I know the Steeda units work with the Tokico D-Spec struts.

After many hours of research and talking to several people/vendors this is the combo I am going to be installing this spring. I have a vert so I am also throwing on a MM 3-point strut tower brace to try and reduce cowl shake

Hope this helps.

 

[OSUALUM78]

Lots of info here to try and help you with.

As for the level 5s I agree with 03cobraaa, I don't think you need to spend the money on them. There are a lot of high HP cars running the stockers and if you eliminate the hop you chances of breaking one go way down. However if you have the spare $1600+ then knock yourself out, but don't think it's needed. I would personally forgo the level 5s and replace the stock shocks and struts to better match your new springs.

As for the FTBR kit, does your car have the 80 mph Vibe? If so order the FT-5001 which includes the Delrin Isolated Rear Differential Lowering Mount to allow you to adjust the pinion angle and eliminate/minimize the vibe. As for the FFRP diff cover they sell that unit because it works with their Delrin Isolated Rear Differential Lowering Mount, not sure if it works with the other covers, plus I don't believe you need a brace with any of the aftermarket covers, that's the reason for replacing it.

Rear Diff Hard Mount

Along with the FT-5001 I would order the FT-1860 and FT-1900 along with the bushing removal tool and pinion angle finder if your installer doesn't have them.

As for the MM camber/caster plates I believe they will work with all after market struts, I know the Steeda units work with the Tokico D-Spec struts.

After many hours of research and talking to several people/vendors this is the combo I am going to be installing this spring. I have a vert so I am also throwing on a MM 3-point strut tower brace to try and reduce cowl shake

Hope this helps.

yes it helps. Anyone with any input helps me. Keep it coming!

To retort to your reply:
It's not like I'm rich and have money to waste, but I want to do this right the first time. So if Level 5's are not needed for 600+ at the wheels (with a proper bushing kit and diff support);

Could you or others define getting Level 5's as a good (but expensive) insurance policy against breakage of the half shafts (which would also thereby assuredly break something else, making the initial cost more than just getting the Level 5's right off the bat);

Or would you and others just define them as a complete waste of money unless you have the money to waste? I mean, I could most certainly use the $1500+ towards something else, but if having the Level 5's would be a good insurance policy I would probably get them.

If it's a waste, then they are off my build list and that money is towards something else. I won't be dragging the car often (I'd say around 10-20 runs a year) and my closest twisty track is about an hour away, so I won't be running her there much at all; but like I said I want to do it right the first time, opposed to a shaft snapping and causing damage to other parts......

It also should be re-notated, I am currently on street radials but will be going to a 305/35/18 triple nickel drag radial once I decide on my wheels...

Not sure if I have the 80 mph vibe. I am going to answer no to that. But having the ability to make sure/adjust the pinion angle doesn't sound like a bad idea....

What about the adjustable links, like sway bar links or toe links or

Is the FRPP diff cover just a TA Performance girdle relabeled as FRPP? The FRPP girlde I had for my 04 Mach was just a TA badged as FRPP...

 

[SonicBlueOval]

As others have said, level 5 half shafts are not needed for 600hp. If you were pushing 900 and launching hard at the track all the time then maybe that would be a good investment otherwise you are spending money you could put somewhere else. It honestly doesnt take much work to change a shaft so if you ever break a stock one and have already replaced bushings etc then by all means order level 5 shafts. If you break a stocker at 600 though its not because of the shaft.

Edit: I would also not recommend running the drag radials. I have read over the last several years drag radials cause irs breakage. I personally don't have experience using them on my irs, but when i read several cases thats enough for me to not use them. I have been told to go straight to slicks for the track. People with DR experience please chime in since i dont have first hand experience on that subject.

 

[rudycobra]

Ftbr kit and a cover . Low is nice one for the price too . No brace is needed with an aftermarket cover ! Half shafts are not needed . U read just as many posts about breaking dss ones as u do stock ones . As far as drag radials I will never run anything less than them . I ran 555rs at the track and launching at 4500 and no issues . Car pulled 1.72 60' with them at 15 lbs . Everyone has their opinions though .

 

[eaglesnick]

yes it helps. Anyone with any input helps me. Keep it coming!

To retort to your reply:
It's not like I'm rich and have money to waste, but I want to do this right the first time. So if Level 5's are not needed for 600+ at the wheels (with a proper bushing kit and diff support);

Could you or others define getting Level 5's as a good (but expensive) insurance policy against breakage of the half shafts (which would also thereby assuredly break something else, making the initial cost more than just getting the Level 5's right off the bat);

Or would you and others just define them as a complete waste of money unless you have the money to waste? I mean, I could most certainly use the $1500+ towards something else, but if having the Level 5's would be a good insurance policy I would probably get them.

If it's a waste, then they are off my build list and that money is towards something else. I won't be dragging the car often (I'd say around 10-20 runs a year) and my closest twisty track is about an hour away, so I won't be running her there much at all; but like I said I want to do it right the first time, opposed to a shaft snapping and causing damage to other parts......

It also should be re-notated, I am currently on street radials but will be going to a 305/35/18 triple nickel drag radial once I decide on my wheels...

Not sure if I have the 80 mph vibe. I am going to answer no to that. But having the ability to make sure/adjust the pinion angle doesn't sound like a bad idea....

What about the adjustable links, like sway bar links or toe links or

Is the FRPP diff cover just a TA Performance girdle relabeled as FRPP? The FRPP girlde I had for my 04 Mach was just a TA badged as FRPP...

It seems like you are trying to get us to say YES install the level 5s, they are worth it. The reality is the level 5s MIGHT provide you with "insurance" but I think it will more than likely just give you a false sense of security. Level 5s are NOT indestructible and like anything else can break, the stock units on the 03/04s have proven quite stout and capable of high horsepower, the 99/01s were a weak unit. At the end of the day the decision is yours, but you just have to be smart when driving, even installing the FTBR kit won't guarantee that you won't experience wheel hop; it's wheel hop that breaks half shafts more times than not. So the lesson here is if you start to hop GET OFF THE GAS regardless of what half shafts are installed :beer:

As for the adjustable links, like sway bar links or toe links I recommended you do get those in my first response since you are in the 600+ hp level, that was the FT-1860 and FT-1900 parts.

Unfortunately I can't speak on the FRPP cover, but I know it works with the rear diff lowering mount FTBR sells.

 

[mu22stang]

In addition to level 5's not being necessary, they compromise the life of the knuckle bearings.

I'll be the Debbie downer, as I always am when these threads come up...

Spend some of your money on drag strip entry fees, track days and expendibles (tires, fuel, brake pads, rotors, fluids) etc. You'll spend all this money on parts that make the car go "faster" only to realize that the driver plays a bigger role than all parts listed in your first post combined. It's easy to walk a newb on the track, no matter his power or suspension goodies, if he isn't comfortable with the limits of his car.

A 600hp supercharged Cobra is going to be extremely difficult to keep cool on the road course. If "Somewhere in the middle" is Texas, you'll be shortshifting a ton to keep temperatures in check with that level of power. You haven't listed the gauges you have to monitor temperatures or any of your cooling mods.

If it were me, I'd hit the track. But don't fall into the trap that you have to make the car bulletproof before you get seat time. Certainly don't believe that aftermarket parts make a car faster. You will always need to maintain the car, replace expendibles, and find what parts your driving style wears out.

I stand behind everything FTBR makes. Bruce's customer service and knowledge is top notch. So is his track experience. He will be upfront with you if you ask what you need for your skill level.

 

[OSUALUM78]

As others have said, level 5 half shafts are not needed for 600hp. If you were pushing 900 and launching hard at the track all the time then maybe that would be a good investment otherwise you are spending money you could put somewhere else. It honestly doesnt take much work to change a shaft so if you ever break a stock one and have already replaced bushings etc then by all means order level 5 shafts. If you break a stocker at 600 though its not because of the shaft.

Well, I don't ever intend on pushing her to 900 rwhp, but we all know how the mod bug is, especially with the ease of pulley swapping and a flash on your tune (assuming your fuel system can handle it or you mod to handle the extra hp). If I ever get there, I'd probably go to 31 spline straight axle anyways. My plan though is the KB 2.8LC, without modifying my stock hood, which per their specs goes as follows:

3.5" pulley (this is the largest pulley that can fit the stock hood with that 2.8LC)
90MM idler
Crank ratio: 1.87
6.55" Metco crank pulley
91 octane
= 15 PSI of boost
= 665 HP

I've been going conservative from their specs with the 600 number I've stated.

Like I stated up above, my drag and twisty runs will be there but limited. My Termi is my fun/weekend car, not my DD. She is by no means a track car.

Edit: I would also not recommend running the drag radials. I have read over the last several years drag radials cause irs breakage. I personally don't have experience using them on my irs, but when i read several cases thats enough for me to not use them. I have been told to go straight to slicks for the track. People with DR experience please chime in since i dont have first hand experience on that subject.

I have never heard this about DRs. I'm sure they'd break the IRS without supporting mods (bushing kit, diff cover, etc) as they will hook better and cause the deflection to give so far it will snap something. I'm on street radials right now, full OEM setup (except for catted x pipe and catback) and I get no traction and wheelhop like nobody's business. I know a few with Termis and DRs with no problems. See above for use of my Termi.

Ftbr kit and a cover . Low is nice one for the price too . No brace is needed with an aftermarket cover ! Half shafts are not needed . U read just as many posts about breaking dss ones as u do stock ones . As far as drag radials I will never run anything less than them . I ran 555rs at the track and launching at 4500 and no issues . Car pulled 1.72 60' with them at 15 lbs . Everyone has their opinions though .

Thanks for your opinion.

It seems like you are trying to get us to say YES install the level 5s, they are worth it. The reality is the level 5s MIGHT provide you with "insurance" but I think it will more than likely just give you a false sense of security. Level 5s are NOT indestructible and like anything else can break, the stock units on the 03/04s have proven quite stout and capable of high horsepower, the 99/01s were a weak unit. At the end of the day the decision is yours, but you just have to be smart when driving, even installing the FTBR kit won't guarantee that you won't experience wheel hop; it's wheel hop that breaks half shafts more times than not. So the lesson here is if you start to hop GET OFF THE GAS regardless of what half shafts are installed :beer:

As for the adjustable links, like sway bar links or toe links I recommended you do get those in my first response since you are in the 600+ hp level, that was the FT-1860 and FT-1900 parts.

Unfortunately I can't speak on the FRPP cover, but I know it works with the rear diff lowering mount FTBR sells.

Not trying to get anyone to say "Yes" for me. I'm simply trying to do this right the first time and install the suspension at once. Like I stated, if Level 5's aren't needed, then they can only be viewed as expensive insurance or a waste of money. You all point to a waste of money. Cool. That money is now diverted to some other mod. And you may be right in the false sense of security. With my wheel hop now, I've already trained myself to involuntarily react to letting of the throttle.

Thanks for your reply.

In addition to level 5's not being necessary, they compromise the life of the knuckle bearings.

I'll be the Debbie downer, as I always am when these threads come up...

Spend some of your money on drag strip entry fees, track days and expendibles (tires, fuel, brake pads, rotors, fluids) etc. You'll spend all this money on parts that make the car go "faster" only to realize that the driver plays a bigger role than all parts listed in your first post combined. It's easy to walk a newb on the track, no matter his power or suspension goodies, if he isn't comfortable with the limits of his car.

A 600hp supercharged Cobra is going to be extremely difficult to keep cool on the road course. If "Somewhere in the middle" is Texas, you'll be shortshifting a ton to keep temperatures in check with that level of power. You haven't listed the gauges you have to monitor temperatures or any of your cooling mods.

If it were me, I'd hit the track. But don't fall into the trap that you have to make the car bulletproof before you get seat time. Certainly don't believe that aftermarket parts make a car faster. You will always need to maintain the car, replace expendibles, and find what parts your driving style wears out.

I stand behind everything FTBR makes. Bruce's customer service and knowledge is top notch. So is his track experience. He will be upfront with you if you ask what you need for your skill level.

No worries man. I asked for opinions, not facts. Speak your mind on anything I've posted. See above for my use of my Termi. By no means will she ever be a "track" car.

See above for my current mod list. I live in OK and summer can get brutal here. As for gauges, none outside of OEM yet. I plan on the Aeroforce Interceptor dual setup, with one gauge on A/F and boost and the other on oil and fuel pressure. Since my Termi won't be a "track" car, these are the outside of OEM gauges/monitors I felt were most important. If the outside temps hit 100 plus like they can here, I don't drive her.

Hopefully going in this Friday is:
Afco Pro series dual pass H/E
Reische 170 thermostat
Lethal's tank combo kit: THIS ONE HERE. CLICK ME. WORK SAFE. I TAKE YOU TO LETHAL'S SITE
And the Evenflow Gen 2 head cooling mod (I don't have the dreaded tick, but I figured this was cheap insurance)

I'm in email contact with either Bruce or Steve now.

Thanks for your reply.

Click on my link to my post below to help me on fluid level quantities ratios and for any tip or tricks you can give me installing the things above.

THIS ONE HERE. CLICK ME. WORK SAFE. I TAKE YOU TO ANOTHER PAGE ON THIS FORUM




Thanks all
:beer:

 

[AlwaysBoosted]

I have sitting in my living room: one set of H&R Race Springs
:thumbsup:

- FTBR IRS bushing kit
Front and Rear IRS bushings at minimum with a Ford Racing Cover

- DSS Level 5 halfshafts
Not needed unless you plan on doing some 1/8 mile burn outs at 6000rpms

- Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors [black powdercoated, to be welded in (weld area to be grinded down so it can be welded)]
I would just buy the raw subframe connectors then paint them by hand with POR15

:beer:

 

[ac427cobra]

Every owner of a SN-95 vehicle should have a good quality FLSFC on their car as a first mod. Even before a CAI, tune or pulley.

Every owner of a Cobra equipped with an IRS, needs to eradicate all of the rubber from their entire IRS assembly. This will in most cases eliminate wheel hop. A rear cover brace at the minimum should be added to the project. If you'd rather upgrade your cover right away, I'd recommend the Ford Racing cover. That would eliminate the need for a rear cover brace.

If At the minimum you want the FT 5000 bushing kit, $645, which now includes the front subframe mounting bolts FT 1600. If you're doing the job yourself you're also going to want to get the OEM bushing removal tool set FT 2100 for $70. You will receive a $60 refund when you return the removal tools. In the rare case you have a driveline vibe now, you're going to want to consider the FT 5001 bushing kit which includes the Delrin isolated rear diff lowering mount FT 1401. This will allow you to completely optimize the driveline angles in your car.

If you have upgraded power and like to drag race, you're also going to want to consider a few other things. First would be one of our upgraded toe link and bumpsteer kits, FT 1800 or FT 1860, $159 and $239 respectively. The bumpsteer and upgraded toe link kits are very important for drag racing and road racing. Secondly, you'd want to consider upgrading to the new Ford Racing rear diff cover FT 1350 for $239. This is essential for drag racing but is also has provisions for a diff cooler if you plan on road racing or serious track day duty.

If you're interested in saving 5% by sending a check, you can download the order form at the bottom of the order page, fill the form out on your computer, it will automatically calculate prices, discount and freight and mail it in with payment.

You will also find a link on our site for installation tips and photos:

FTBR IRS Installation Photo's and Tips

The benefits of having the kit is to eliminate wheel hop, primarily for drag racers and to regain control of the rear end of your car which is important for road racers and track day participants. The IRS is half as efficient as the front suspension because it has twice as many control arms. And when these control arms are mounted in rubber they deflect to the path of least resistance, not where you want them positioned for maximum efficiency. Something you don't have now with an OEM rubber bushed or aftermarket poly IRS assembly.


As many others have stated in this thread, do NOT buy L-5 halfshafts!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They are a complete waste of money. They cause FAR more problems than what they are supposed to cure!!!!!! Don't take my word for it, read for yourself:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/761109-broke-my-cobra.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/621883-possible-broken-half-shaft.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/534997-broken-level-5-half-shaft.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/761109-broke-my-cobra.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/766390-half-shaft-problem.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/777755-ouch-death-dss-level-5-halfshaft.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...broke-half-shaft-now-wheel-bearing-noise.html


Power does NOT break halfshafts! Rubber in the IRS assembly and wheel hop is what breaks halfshafts and rear covers.

We have many customers running OEM halfshafts with our kit that have well North of 600 and 700 RWHP.

If you're buying tires, do your research. Some harder tires hop like crazy, others provide grip and don't hop at all. Here's a tire review someone did on line that I made a record of:


Stock Goodyear F1's = The root of all evil. Wheel Hop King
Nitto Drag Radials = Horrible, They hopped worse than stock F1's for me warm or cold.
BFG Drag Radials = Actually started to eliminate my wheel hop. About 70% eliminated on warm day
Mickey Thompson Drag Radials = Night and Day Difference, best all around tire when I first put them on = About 95% of wheel hop gone on a warm day
Hoosier Drag Radials = Incredible Sticky Tire 99% of wheel hop eliminated on warm day. On a cold day, burn the tires for a few seconds and they still maintain there grip unless the pavement is freezing cold. Downside = Terrible in the rain and very cold weather. Also, tread wear is prob half of what the MT DR's are. I got about 5,500 miles out of my driving casually with only 2 track appearances.

If you have any questions I'd be glad to answer them for you!

:thumbsup::coolman::beer: