t56 bearing whirling noise: help me figure this out

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2003oxfordCobra

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Alright, for the past several months I've been trying to narrow down a noise that my transmission has been making. It hasn't gotten any worse but it is very annoying as i don't like unusual vibrations or noises coming from my driveline. It is most apparent in neutral with the clutch out. It make this bearing whirling noise and goes away when clutch is pressed in. When moving in gear, pressing the clutch in makes no difference in sound. But if you put it in neutral while moving and press clutch in, the noise stops. Also, if you change to a lower gear while moving, you can hear the bearing noise speed up to match the lower gears rpm.
I have already changed the throwout bearing and the input shaft bearing (shimmed properly) and these had no effect in diminishing the noise. Anybody have thoughts on what could be causing this?

Its a 2003 cobra with t56. Unknown what type of clutch is in it. Looked like the factory one when i changed the input shaft bearing, could be wrong, it was grey in color. It has 105k miles on it... MGW short throw, stock clutch cable.

Here is the link to the YouTube video I made: https://youtu.be/-E_mx3ZU75w
 

Rich'sTRsvt

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Did you change the pilot bearing as well? edit, nevermind, I watched your video and that would be the opposite of what you have going on.
 
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SlowSVT

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Unless I missed it I didn't hear if you replaced the pilot bearing if you didn't that's what gets my vote. If you did replace the PB somethings up with the input shaft. Maybe the shimming gone bad, shaft alignment, it ingested something or perhaps all of the above. Either way that T56 coming out. Driving around with a noisy gearbox only makes the fix more expensive.
 

SnakeBit

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Alright, for the past several months I've been trying to narrow down a noise that my transmission has been making. It hasn't gotten any worse but it is very annoying as i don't like unusual vibrations or noises coming from my driveline. It is most apparent in neutral with the clutch out. It make this bearing whirling noise and goes away when clutch is pressed in. When moving in gear, pressing the clutch in makes no difference in sound. But if you put it in neutral while moving and press clutch in, the noise stops. Also, if you change to a lower gear while moving, you can hear the bearing noise speed up to match the lower gears rpm.
I have already changed the throwout bearing and the input shaft bearing (shimmed properly) and these had no effect in diminishing the noise. Anybody have thoughts on what could be causing this?

Its a 2003 cobra with t56. Unknown what type of clutch is in it. Looked like the factory one when i changed the input shaft bearing, could be wrong, it was grey in color. It has 105k miles on it... MGW short throw, stock clutch cable.

Here is the link to the YouTube video I made: https://youtu.be/-E_mx3ZU75w
What you describe is classic TOB noise. If you have a firewall adjuster, you can adjust the noise away by adding a little preload. The downside is that the TOB spins all the time. Of course it appears to be spinning all the time, it's just too light of pressure against the pressure plate fingers.

Another solution is to use a spring to pull the TOB back away from the clutch fingers. You can buy this kit:
https://www.dagostinoracing.com/ford-96-04-mustang-clutch-freeplay-correction-kit.html
or source the parts yourself. Without a spring to pull the clutch arm back and a firewall adjuster to change the setting, the TOB may continue to make that noise.

I use the freeplay kit and adjust my clutch with the engine running, car up on jack stands, and adjust until the TOB just stops spinning. You can hear it spinning from under the D/S, or if you remove the inspection cover, you can see the TOB spinning with a flashlight.

One last thought. If you still have the self adjusting poem quadrant, you might could fix it by pulling up on the pedal to readjust the quadrant.
 

2003oxfordCobra

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Thanks for all the replies guys. I tried the oem quadrant adjustment as a first diagnosic when it first started making the noise and I think it made the noise a little louder...not sure if I was just becoming more focused on the noise as nothing seemed to fix it. I am familiar with the free play mod and will give that a shot. I did not change the pilot bearing while i was in the transmission, but the end of the input shaft showed no signs of wear where it would sit in it. My only thoughts on the TOB not adjusted properly is this: When im going down the road in gear and pressing in the clutch, the noise is still there. It is only when moving with gear in neutral and clutch pressed in that the noise stops completely. That would tell me that it isn't the TOB, but something inside the transmission.... any thoughts on that?
 

FL Steve

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I've got the same issue. I would go with what snakebit is suggesting. I've got a new clutch, flywheel, TOB, and pilot bearing waiting to go in the car and for now it's not really bothering me that much.
 

Jsantana91

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+1 I've got the same noise. I added tension to the clutch cable, the tob makes that noise but at least it won't squeal. Time to change the tob and tob sleeve
 
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2003oxfordCobra

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Okay guys, I took off the clutch cable cover plate and noticed that the TOB was touching the pressure plate fingers and spins on the fingers when the car is in neutral. I didn't think this was normal and i remember reading somewhere that there should be around 1/8" between the TOB and the fingers when properly adjusted.... So, i tried to manually adjust the clutch cable mechanism attached to the clutch pedal and every time i bump the pedal in an upward motion, it rachets itself back to a super taught position and makes the TOB touch the fingers again. I think this is what is causing my whirrling noise but I don't know how to cure the tightness of the cable. Any suggestions?
 

hotcobra03

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Was it a ford bearing you used?

Ive have had to re do my tob as much as tires..

I had some last days and start to make noise to 50k with no issues..

ive used both oem and other..oem appears to be the best and isnt expensive. .

just a tob change isnt all that bad with t56 in driveway on stands..

mine has always been tight to pp fingers..oem set up..

I just changed over 12k ago when changing clutch for 1st time..

I have aluminum quadrant with adjustable cable. .no firewall adjuster..

adjusted to where tob just touches fingers..

I have never replaced pilot bearing..
 

2003oxfordCobra

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When I changed the TOB i think it was an autozone one. I want to say it was a "Brute Force." Do you think it could have been defective new? Im going to try and move the throwout bearing/Fork off the pressure plate fingers, by hand, while the engine is running tomorrow. If the noise stops, ill know thats the source of my problem. Does this sound like a bad idea?
 

2003oxfordCobra

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Bump.
Well, i got underneath the car and disconnected the clutch fork from the cable while the car was running. I moved the TOB off the pressure plate fingers, stopping its movement, and the noise still persists. In the process of elimination, i can discount anything forward of the transmission case. My question to you guys is...which bearing(s) inside the transmission are in motion while driving the vehicle (in gear) with the clutch pressed down?

Like i said earlier, if im cruising, put it in neutral, press the clutch down, noise goes away. But as soon as i put it in gear, the bearing noise speeds up to match engine speed.
 

hotcobra03

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Who did the work when you say we changed the input shaft bearing?

So it still has 10 spline shaft?

I had front cover off to replace bearing retainer (shaft tob rides on)..

What actual bearing did you replace?
 

2003oxfordCobra

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I replaced the input shaft bearing and race when i changed the TOB. It's the bearing that rides inside the front plate. I used a micrometer to check endplay when re-shimming so i know it's within the 0.000- 0.001 tolerance.

Yes, it still has the stock 10 splin input shaft
 

biggair1

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From the sounds of what you replaced its gonna be main or countershaft bearing. Do the upgraded keys, brass fork pads and steel 3/4 fork while your in there. The stock keys are stamped and create bad problems when they break. Sorry and good luck.
 

hotcobra03

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I replaced the input shaft bearing and race when i changed the TOB. It's the bearing that rides inside the front plate. I used a micrometer to check endplay when re-shimming so i know it's within the 0.000- 0.001 tolerance.

Yes, it still has the stock 10 splin input shaft

Front plate as in fly wheel where pilot bearing is?

Or front cover of trans was pulled apart where there are 2 shafts with bearings and shims
 

2003oxfordCobra

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The bearing and race i replaced are number 8 and 9 in the tremec service manual. I meant the front cover of the transmission. The part that bolts up to the bell housing.

I had a feeling it could be the keys that have failed, possibly causing more damage. Also, i thought all 03/04 cobras came stock with the steel 3/4 shift fork
 

matthayn

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How loud is the noise? Do you hear it in 4th gear as well? Can you get a video of it?

Judging from what you've replaced and ruled out so far, I'd say you might have something going on like I had recently before my T56 destroyed itself... I still don't know for sure, but I believe mine was a counter shaft bearing/shim issue. I know for a fact the input shaft was shimmed properly. Mine was noisy as hell in all gears but 4th, 4th was dead silent.

Have you thought about pulling it and having it gone through and a proper rebuild done? If it's enough noise to really worry you, it might be a good idea.
 
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