Temp is rising after driving 30 minutes+
- Thread starter hob
- Start date
01cobravortech
Banned
The compression numbers aren't exactly too far off from Ford standards though.
I mean think about, you didn't have any cooling issues until you opened up the system recently.
many guys, when they open up the cooling system, rush through the burping procedure.
Also, if you suffer an overheating episode or if you push coolant through the radiator cap, you really need to replace it.
Also from what I read in your post, I suspect you are still using a stock plastic tank. An over heating episode can screw up its sealing capability. May not be visible to the naked eye, yet there your issue can be.
I chucked my stock tank after having cooling issues, while putting on new radiator caps. They fail too. Went the aluminum tank route.
I'd just hate for you to tear into your motor for no reason at this point. The cooling system on these cars is finicky.
BUT many just go through the burping procedure not giving much thought to whether your radiator cap AND tank are compromised. An overheating episode or one close to can easily produce temps that ruin the sealing capability of the stock tank and cap.
Been through these frustrations myself.
First episode was a few weeks after on a hot day in traffic lights. I took it home replaced, flushed, and burped and attributed to potential air pocket.
Now a few weeks later (last week) I had the issue twice in heavy freeway traffic on 100 degree days.
To your point, it's very disappointing to think about it just being very light mods to have this problem. But I do and have to figure out how to deal with it.
It did fumble idling during that first episode for a quick moment (with ac on) but other than that it runs absolutely perfect, strong, no CEL, nothing else besides the rising temp those few times indicated something's wrong.
More closely looking at it today it's a bit clearer there's an issue on the driver side engine. Outside of the compression numbers, there was quite a bit of oil on the #5 spark plug, and on the drives side exhaust it's rusted heavily from looks like water pooling up in it? The passenger side has zero signs of that. Again all just very disappointing, we all know the risk of used cars though.
Last edited:
I would try barhs leak before pulling head..
Ive over heated many times..
I have only replaced upper rad hose..cross over hose..and water pump ..rest of it is original..
water pump was leaking from weep hole..
Ive over heated many times..
I have only replaced upper rad hose..cross over hose..and water pump ..rest of it is original..
water pump was leaking from weep hole..
Believe me sometimes I really do want to button it back up and more thoroughly go through the cooling system to see if the overheat issue gets fixed.
Just replaced Intercooler pump and works perfectly now, that's exciting to me. It'd be hard to go to a dealer and be told I need to replace motor when it runs so strong other then those few occasions when temp started to rise.
I still don't know what direction to take this.
01cobravortech
Banned
Ok thank you for providing additional details.
Now I would like to say, that every thread on my (8) spark plugs, has some degree of oil on it.
I've personally noticed that the spark plug threads have more oil when I run Amsoil 0w-30 as opposed to Amsoil 10w-30, race oil.
I felt that was important to mention, since I have 108k on my motor and its been pullied since about 10k. And I've noticed much less oil on the spark plug threads when going to a thicker oil.
Now are you still on the stock radiator expansion tank or do you have an aftermarket one?
Have you replaced your stock radiator expansion tank and cap?
I'm telling you man...unless you have zero compression in a cylinder and your overflow tank can't get 16psi out of coolant pressure test...I would not drop the gloves and just tear into a motor. That's a knee jerk reaction man.
As I indicated previously, the stock radiator overflow tank and radiator tank can deform and become useless after just ONE overheating episode or an episode where the coolant temps rise above what is considered normal. These parts are not high durability parts.
I've been spooked many times, 3xs to be exact, by membners on this site about my overheating issues.
My 03 overheated out of nowhere, on 3 occasions. Never even tinkered with the stock cooling system when it occurred. Replacing the tank and radiator cap and slowly reburping, solved all the issues.
And many people rush through the burping procedure thinking all the air is gone.
I personally believe that the stock radiator expansion tank and radiator cap need to be replaced after an overheating episode.
Thanks for the help I really appreciate it! All 8 of my plugs have slight bit of oil as well but the #5 (right next to oil fill) had the most for whatever reason. It's not eating a lot of oil or coolant from what I've noticed so far, but I've only had it for a few months.
I replaced the OEM radiator cap not the overflow tank after the first episode. Interesting enough .... the only major spare part that I have laying around is an overflow tank that I got when I bought my Mach 1. It looks like Ford OEM and brand new which is hilarious to me that you mention it.
My big problem with burp was I didn't have funnel that fit properly and sealed in the crossover tube. I bought a new one Saturday which will work much better the next time I attempt a burp.
Last edited:
01cobravortech
Banned
Thanks for the help I really appreciate it! All 8 of my plugs have slight bit of oil as well but the #5 (right next to oil fill) had the most for whatever reason. It's not eating a lot of oil or coolant from what I've noticed so far, but I've only had it for a few months.
I replaced the OEM radiator cap not the overflow tank after the first episode. Interesting enough .... the only major spare part that I have laying around is an overflow tank that I got when I bought my Mach 1. It looks like Ford OEM and brand new which is hilarious to me that you mention it.
My big problem with burp was I didn't have funnel that fit properly and sealed in the crossover tube. I bought a new one Saturday which will work much better the next time I attempt a burp.
You know what man...I'm just concerned you go the aggressive route and pull the motor and do the unnecessary. Not at ALL trying to dismiss all the GREAT info dropped in this thread.
BUT all I heard was, when I overheating, its head gasket or bad t-stat, or bad fan.
Boiled my t-stat. Opened properly.
New radiator cap..still pushed coolant.
Rented the AutoZone coolant compression kit and it checked out at 16psi.
Now its easy to fall victim to believing its a compression or dead cylinder issues, but that PLASTIC radiator expansion tank simply does NOT hold up to an overheating episode.
Before you go motor pulling crazy...replace that tank with s Moroso tank that uses a STOCK Ford radiator cap. REBURP. and check back.
Here is how I reburp.
Not that my way is superior or better in any way.
But I refill through the crossover tube plug opening. I sue the OBD II reading through the odometer. I idle the car until it hits 87C - 90C on the odo reading. I have the full blast setting on the heat, while I'm idling.
Once I hi those temps I shut the car off.
The following MORNING, I loosen the radiator cap and then retighten, to lease any pressure in the cooling system.
Then I re-open the crossover burp plug and add any water that is needed if the area looks under level.
I do this same procedure until there is n ROOM to add water.
I believe in taking my time to burp the cooling system. Within 3 days I get it to the point where I can't add any water whatsoever to the bur plug crossover opening.
Bad you have to keep in mind that those Ford radiator caps fail easily. Put a new one on and burp it slowly. Do not go the Head gasket failure heart attack mode so easily. It is very hard to blow a HG on these motors.
After a little more reading, I may have slightly goofed compression results as I took the test on a cold engine after sitting for 24 hours and didn't have WOT. Regardless though it's all about consistency and one side still read even across the board setting the standard for the crappy drivers side.
What are your fan temp settings at? Lower them and see if its still the issue. Your tuner could have forgot to change them. Sometimes the fan settings won't turn on till 220* and by then its going to start climbing. Move the low speed down to 180* and the high speed to 195* using your handheld tuner. And see if you still have the same issue. Then when you see the temp gauge start rising again, go pop the hood and confirm the fan is actually coming on.
The head gaskets on these things can take a beating, its not like the old gaskets from the 60s were a small overheat disintegrates them. I wouldn't pull the head off just yet.
The head gaskets on these things can take a beating, its not like the old gaskets from the 60s were a small overheat disintegrates them. I wouldn't pull the head off just yet.
Good idea thanks for the input!
I just purchased a Reische 170 degree Thermostat last night as well, so that's going to require me to investigate/change the fan speed also.
I had my car tuned in the winter. And my tuner never changed the temp settings. The high speed wouldn't come on until 220. Once the warm weather came around my car started running hot, and would even start experiencing some detonation. I started playing with adding fuel and lowering timing with no help, until I finally realized he never adjusted the fan settings.
I'm running an inline setup with a 160 tstat. I don't drive mine often, so I'm not worried about overusing my fans. But I have 112k miles and they are still working. I have my fan settings at 170 low and 185 high. After my temps start hitting 190+ my car starts running like crap.
I have a remote switch activated ground taped to the ecu, and when its really hot out. I just flip the switch and run the high speed fan all the time and coolant temps stay under 190 all the time.
I'm running an inline setup with a 160 tstat. I don't drive mine often, so I'm not worried about overusing my fans. But I have 112k miles and they are still working. I have my fan settings at 170 low and 185 high. After my temps start hitting 190+ my car starts running like crap.
I have a remote switch activated ground taped to the ecu, and when its really hot out. I just flip the switch and run the high speed fan all the time and coolant temps stay under 190 all the time.
My car randomly overheated when it was still stock. On a cool 65 degree morning about a year ago. Puking coolant out of the radiator cap. Bought a new cap, 170 stat, burped system, and set fan temps lower. Night and day difference no problems since.
Now have functioning IC pump / flushed IC coolant
New 170 degree thermostat
Fans set per instructions to 186 low 190 high
Flushed coolant and refilled with 30/70
Folded hood vent flaps under blanket / cut blanket to open access
Opened radiator / intercooler fins that closed with a 100k mile car.
In the last steps of the burp process. Left the car at home this week to make sure I can every ounce air.
Drove to Napa and made some errands while burping/data logging and highest ECT was 190. Granted with was a 75 degree morning easy drive.
Is there a specific temp you guys get to in summer when you start to worry? 220+? 210+?
New 170 degree thermostat
Fans set per instructions to 186 low 190 high
Flushed coolant and refilled with 30/70
Folded hood vent flaps under blanket / cut blanket to open access
Opened radiator / intercooler fins that closed with a 100k mile car.
In the last steps of the burp process. Left the car at home this week to make sure I can every ounce air.
Drove to Napa and made some errands while burping/data logging and highest ECT was 190. Granted with was a 75 degree morning easy drive.
Is there a specific temp you guys get to in summer when you start to worry? 220+? 210+?
Last edited:
To double check to see if you're T-Stat is working properly. Take it on a cruise on the highway, Your temps should be somewhere between 172-178. That's with or without the A/C is on. Also double check and see if you still have your Air dam. If not that will greatly reduce your cooling abilitys while moving.
Also, You'll notice your Coolant temps will be higher in stop and go traffic with the A/C on. It causes a slight bit more load on the Engine, But anyways! PM me if you have any more questions. Hope things work out for you man.
Edit: To Answer your question. I don't like my coolant temp's to be over 200 EVER. But I've done so many cooling mods to my Terminator I rarely ever see in the 180's.
Also, You'll notice your Coolant temps will be higher in stop and go traffic with the A/C on. It causes a slight bit more load on the Engine, But anyways! PM me if you have any more questions. Hope things work out for you man.
Edit: To Answer your question. I don't like my coolant temp's to be over 200 EVER. But I've done so many cooling mods to my Terminator I rarely ever see in the 180's.
Last edited:
I dealt with this type of shit for like 4 months, car would overheat and shoot out coolent all over the place, turns out it was the head gasket and the oil cooler.
My car now in Vegas heat will stay around 85-86 C on the interstate with or without AC blowing. In traffic with AC on and 100* outside it will creep up to 95-96* then goes down once I get moving again.
04Riceater, mine is the say way..was 93 here y'day and in stop and go, it got up to around 94-95C and would go down if was at cruise (this is with the AC on). Without the AC on, mine stays at 81 to 82. My main issue is that my turbo is right by the coolant pipe and I can't fit a blanket on so my situation is abit unique. I have a 170 stat with low fans at 170 and high at 176
Users who are viewing this thread
