Temp is rising after driving 30 minutes+

[hob]

I dealt with this type of shit for like 4 months, car would overheat and shoot out coolent all over the place, turns out it was the head gasket and the oil cooler.

My car now in Vegas heat will stay around 85-86 C on the interstate with or without AC blowing. In traffic with AC on and 100* outside it will creep up to 95-96* then goes down once I get moving again.

04Riceater, mine is the say way..was 93 here y'day and in stop and go, it got up to around 94-95C and would go down if was at cruise (this is with the AC on). Without the AC on, mine stays at 81 to 82. My main issue is that my turbo is right by the coolant pipe and I can't fit a blanket on so my situation is abit unique. I have a 170 stat with low fans at 170 and high at 176

Good to know that mid 90s are what you guys are seeing. I'll be data logging the heck out of it.

As far as the head gasket concern, I still don't know what to think about my 135 125 115 135 cold compression numbers. The leak down adapter I borrowed didn't fit so I still need to complete that.

 

[hob]

Put it all back together and I'm doing the cycling of hot / cold then fill burp process (about 5 times in so it couldn't be low coolant) well on this drive I decided I'll do some data logging. It is 90 degrees here but I was forced to turn off AC when coolant temp hit 224* F during slow speeds (sub 30 mph). After I turn AC off while maintaining the same mph it will fall back to 214-216*. I believe my highest IAT was 114.

When I get back on the highway it starts dropping again wether AC is on or off. I'm not sure what any of this means now though. My high and low speeds fans are kicking on per my data logging, low at 186 and high at 190.

 

[01cobravortech]

When I'm in +90 degree heat and humidity, in stop and go traffic in NJ, I consistently see 100C - 104C with the Reische t-stat and AC on. Some of the temps you guys are reporting, seem perfectly normal. I mean you need air flowing under the car and the temps will naturally be higher in the heat.

 

[hob]

So good to be driving the Cobra again!

Drove about 75 minutes in 90 - 100 degree weather (elevation change) so had plenty of time to watch and record numbers. At 80 mph with NO AC averaged 176* F. With full AC she averaged 188* . Very happy with these numbers .

As I pulled into our neighborhood it started rising fast (turned it off in the driveway at 212*F) but as mentioned I should expect that?

 

[hob]

Well it was good .

I swear at times I believe this car is trying to break me ... Highest temp I saw was 234F today .... And now the AC is not working . It could be as simple as low freon but it's quite hot already and lovely driving today without it.

 

[SVTDice]

You need to take a look into your fans and make sure they are working. You also need to double check and make sure you still have your Air dam. Don't let the car break you man! Things will get better! Its all trail and error.

Double check your coolant, make sure its not low or dirty again etc! Just double check over things just to make sure.

 

[04RiceEater]

Sorry to hear man, I just got a coolent flush and now after I'm getting coolent leaking from a failed water pump

 

[hob]

Sorry to hear man, I just got a coolent flush and now after I'm getting coolent leaking from a failed water pump

Ah that's no good, I know how that goes.

At least my AC works decently when driving 40+ mph but from what I read that is likely a sign of low Freon / malfunctioning fan (hand held tuner shows when the fan turns on the high speed / low speed so I presume this is fine).

In theory it seems like a higher power fan would solve my slow speed rising temp problems. I have been watching temps very closely being 110*F out and even with AC on I stay under 220*F for the most part except when I start slowing sub 30 mph around a parking lot then it rises somewhat quickly.

 

[03redfirevert.]

sounds like a partialy plugged radiator.With the engine heated up and one cycle of the fan,check the core temp at the top of the radiator versus the bottom. more than 20 degrees is a problem
You can use an infrared gun for this test

 

[Mach828]

Sounds like the fan settings helped. Updated temps you posted seem fine. Under 220 when its 110 out, and you aren't moving is good.

 

[hob]

sounds like a partialy plugged radiator.With the engine heated up and one cycle of the fan,check the core temp at the top of the radiator versus the bottom. more than 20 degrees is a problem
You can use an infrared gun for this test

I was wondering this myself... I don't have an infrared to test though.

Sounds like the fan settings helped. Updated temps you posted seem fine. Under 220 when its 110 out, and you aren't moving is good.

Well it's under 220 when going a constant 50+ mph. At slower speeds aka stop light to stop light I'm seeing it creep up into the low/mid 220s but typically I get where I'm going by this time.

I'm still monitoring the heck out of it ., can't complain about that. I'm going to do a warm / WOT compression test this weekend to see how they compare to my previous results. Car runs strong, no CELs, no stumbling, had a buddy follow me to watch for any smoke white/blue/black and it did not with a few pulls.

 

[hob]

So much for me thinking I've nipped this problem in the butt. About 20 mins in I was 220* in normal 40 mph stoplight driving no problem that's normal, pull into the college and park then look down to see 238*! This is the highest I've seen since I changed to 170* thermostat. The temp gauge was a hair over the normal resting spot of the gauge. Start walking to class but went back to see if I can see anything obvious while it was hot. I took the pic below after it was off sitting without the fans on or coolant flowing.
Turned it back on for a moment to find nothing strange . Fans turn on, no leaking, IC pump on . It's not eating coolant or smoking. Apparently everything I've done has not fixed the root issue. No question now I'll have to get this car to my mechanic to see what he can figure out.

To summarize this thread I've changed:

Reische 170* therm
Changed fan settings to instructed 186 low 190 high
Flushed coolant a third time with a 30/70 mix coolant/water with burped 5+ Operating temp to cold fill up repeat
Hood vent mod

Ran second warm compression test --- maybe this compression is after all linked to these issues.
1: 170
2: 168
3: 160
4: 165
5: 135
6: 135
7: 130
8: 138

 

[hotcobra03]

Have you tried a sealer yet?

Barsleak or other?

 

[hotcobra03]

 

[SVTDice]

Its starting to get to that point where you might need to start doing some more modding if it really bothers you, In 100+ degree weather. Honestly. That's not THAT bad. The only thing that will help in stop and go traffic and below 40 mph is two things. Ventilation & A higher CFM fan. If you don't mind doing a little bit of modifying the Mark VIII fan may be the trick for you. What you're running into honestly is a heat soak issue. There is a point where the fan can't dissipate the heat. These iron blocks retain heat and alot of it. Anyways, Message Jimmysidecar or Racebronco about it. They should help you out!

 

[Mystic03]

havent read all 3 pages but water pump possibly could be goin..you must be getting air in the system somehow...may need to do a block test

 

[03redfirevert.]

Would you just put a radiator in the d@#n thing. It is your heat xchanger for the engine and they get plugged over time.
Heat is building to the point that it can no longer remove it due to the lower cores in the radiator being stopped up.
But if the coolant has gone acidic,it can eat away the impellers on the water pump.
I would wager on the radiator tho

 

[hob]

Have you tried a sealer yet?

Barsleak or other?

I've been pondering this the last few days. The thought of a "Stop Leak" in radiator system always gave me red flags, but seeing Ford has a recommended stop leak I'll continue to do research in it.

Its starting to get to that point where you might need to start doing some more modding if it really bothers you, In 100+ degree weather. Honestly. That's not THAT bad. The only thing that will help in stop and go traffic and below 40 mph is two things. Ventilation & A higher CFM fan. If you don't mind doing a little bit of modifying the Mark VIII fan may be the trick for you. What you're running into honestly is a heat soak issue. There is a point where the fan can't dissipate the heat. These iron blocks retain heat and alot of it. Anyways, Message Jimmysidecar or Racebronco about it. They should help you out!

I was just shocked to see it that high, it was the first time I've saw the temp gauge over the normal resting spot on the temp gauge since the 170* therm, adjusted fan settings, and flush and reburp. It's those posts of people barely cracking 200* on a "hot" day and others shutting down at the sight of 220* that throws me off.

havent read all 3 pages but water pump possibly could be goin..you must be getting air in the system somehow...may need to do a block test

I'm thinking this weekend I may park the car remove the radiator and water pump, take the radiator to a rad shop to inspect as well as get a new water pump. I have the belt I need to replace too.

Drove the car again yesterday to School and sat perfectly idling at 116* when I pulled in so I'm confused how it was approaching 140* on the same drive / conditions only a couple days before. Maybe I'm just over thinking it all.