the infamous cobra idle stall.

Sonic blue

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04droptop, Yea, it has no effect while taking off, just when i let the rpm's drop while rolling to a stop, either when i push in the clutch or pop it in neutral. No accessories are on when this happens either. I feel like the air temp sensor may be the cause since its in between the maf and iac valve.
 

hotcobra03

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you will get better replies after you get car checked out and tuned..

you are new and just got the car..who really knows what might have been on car and removed before you took it...

almost everything you can dream up on this car has been done,and posted on this site..

try taking some good clear pics of engine and engine bay..these guys will spot everything that looks changed..
 

Sonic blue

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Ok, will do. The only thing added to the car (engine-wise) is the billetflow 2.76 pulley along with the tensioner and 2 lower pulleys. Then full o/r exhaust (-headers) and replacement inner fender cai bolted to the stock upper intake tube, stock maf, stock throttle body.. I'll try to upload pics in the morning regardless. Its a 2 owner car that the last owner never touched with a wrench.
 

Sonic blue

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I just want to know if getting my ecu reflashed to stock will cause any harm with the smaller pulley still attached and o/r prochamber on, or will the stock specs simply keep the engine from taking in the extra boost.. ?? Seems like that is the only logical option at this point. Until i get my programmer reset for the Cobra and know exactly what i'm working with..
 

blwn89gt

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blwn89gt, i may just need to go ahead and recal. my ecu and start over to cure this. Its just annoying that i can't drive it during these cold nights without it doing this over and over..


My car did it a few times back in august when i first bought it from my buddy. The weather is alot colder now and it has happened to me like 3 times over the last 2 months. I find that it happends as im approaching red lights and im slowing down, and I throw them into nuetral instead of downshifting it. It has even happened when downshifting also. Whats funny is I have heard other people who had their car tuned by the shop that tuned it when my buddy had it have the same problem. But it could be all coincidence.
 

hotcobra03

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I just want to know if getting my ecu reflashed to stock will cause any harm with the smaller pulley still attached and o/r prochamber on, or will the stock specs simply keep the engine from taking in the extra boost.. ?? Seems like that is the only logical option at this point. Until i get my programmer reset for the Cobra and know exactly what i'm working with..

did a handheld tuner come with car?

sct xcal,,,predator?
 

JStyles

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My car did this with just a CAI. When I put all my other bolt-ons on, I got it dyno tuned and haven't stalled since...get it tuned.
 

Sonic blue

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No handheld tuner. The first owner was in the military, traded the car in at a Ford dealership where the last owner picked it up 7k miles ago. He couldn't retrieve the tuner from the Ford dealer or the first owner. The car died this way about 8 times sat night and got worse as the temp dropped lower outside. Above 65-70 degrees, it's completely normal for the most part. BTW, there are 2 wires going to the maf sensor that have splice connectors on them, which makes me think that it was dyno-tuned.
 

RED03SVT

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I have the exact same problem and it bugs the hell out of me. And I've had my cobra for over 3 years, but I only drive my cobra once a month (if that). Within the first 5 min of driving it will stall every time I come to a stop. Regardless of how long I let it warm up for it will stall 4-5 times in the first couple min and be fine the rest of the day. Rpms will bounce at 500 and then it will die. I know the tune is good since it was done by amazon. I have the stock elbow with amsoil filter and I've cleaned the maf sensor. I've done some searching as well in the past and not really an answer so I just deal with it, but a fix would be awesome.
 
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Sonic blue

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I have an SCT X3 tuner that i need to get reset for the Cobra. From Bama Tunes. I was just hoping that this would be an easy fix by swapping intakes, or making some manual adjustments to the throttle body. Apparently, this is not the case.
 

Sonic blue

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I sure hope there is a permanent fix, since i will be driving this car pretty often across town, to work, but not out of town much, to conserve miles.
 

DSG2NV03

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I think it is in the tune. The dashpot controls how fast the RPM falls, when the TB blade is abruptly closed (basically). If it falls to fast, the IAC won't be able to take over in time and it dies. A PROPER tune will take care of it. The tuner will need to find the correct balance between Dashpot Clip and Dashpot Decay. That way the RPMs fall without dying and do not take a week to hit idle speeds.
 
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Sonic blue

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Thanks DSG. I've seen more responses voting for a new tune than anything else, so that is what i'm going for. I will let you guy's know the results in a few days.
 

hotcobra03

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i have had the stall issue..add battery/ starter issue on top..drove me nuts..

most of the time it was the pcv valve on mine that helped..

i had chased another issue this last time with a jerk/shutter..found coils were that cause,

but after a couple days went by i noticed my rpms stopped dropping when coming to a stop...

sure makes me wonder if the coils were the cause all along..ive been about 2yrs now 0 stalls
 

Sonic blue

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Has anyone tried the "IAC Mod" (gasket that has one hole smaller than the other to make the engine rpm's fall faster) on a terminator yet? Might could flip it over to make it idle down slower, thus giving the ecm enough time to catch itself before it stalls.. Thinking outside the box, here.
 

Sonic blue

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And i still haven't gotten a reply on getting my ecu reflashed by Ford and still being able to drive the car with the smaller pulley, until i get my programmer set for the Cobra..
 

DSG2NV03

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Has anyone tried the "IAC Mod" (gasket that has one hole smaller than the other to make the engine rpm's fall faster) on a terminator yet? Might could flip it over to make it idle down slower, thus giving the ecm enough time to catch itself before it stalls.. Thinking outside the box, here.

Good idea's I guess, but you are messing with other things to fix a tune issue. This could fix your stall issue, but negatively effect your idle. I understand this is a lot cheaper than a new custom tune, but I do not believe it is the correct answer.
 

snakerider

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And i still haven't gotten a reply on getting my ecu reflashed by Ford and still being able to drive the car with the smaller pulley, until i get my programmer set for the Cobra..

If you get the ecu re-flashed that will reset the air/fuel ratio to stock boost which is 8.5psi. That will make your motor run lean with smaller pulley that is installed right now, the motor will not survive very long from running lean. You are more than likely going to melt a piston if not all. Don't get it re-flashed unless you want the buy a new motor. Instead of re-flash find a good reputable tuner in your area and get it dyno tuned with smaller pulley.
 
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CobraBob

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You will not harm the motor by re-flashing the ECU back to stock at the dealer. BUT.....you would need to stay out of boost and drive/shift like granny, which can be hard to do, but not impossible. So doing this would be fine as long as the custom tune will be done within a week or so. Is it recommended? No. But it can be done without harming the motor as long as you're easy on the throttle and shift at lower RPMs. In other words, staying out of boost. Going back to the (updated) factory tune will also show whether or not the stall issue is/was indeed in the present tune.

I would bet that the issue is in the tune. You want to get your car re-tuned just as quickly as possible. Do whatever you can to expedite this. JMO.
 

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