The new 14mm fron IRS subframe mounting bolts...

Kevin the Clean 1

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I'd just change your front bolts. If you still have some clunk then, change your diff bushings. The heat breaks them down and allows the diff to move around and cause a clunk. Bruce's delrin kit is great.

I wish this were the case & a simple fix (but it's not)... :( I have upgraded the front IRS mounting bolts to the correct 14mm, I have done the diff bushings, the Billet Flow IRS cover brace, & the IRS subframe busings & the clunk is still there... :nonono:

I wish someone knew what this clunk is & how to make it go away... :fm:
 

redfiresvtsnake

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I wish this were the case & a simple fix (but it's not)... :( I have upgraded the front IRS mounting bolts to the correct 14mm, I have done the diff bushings, the Billet Flow IRS cover brace, & the IRS subframe busings & the clunk is still there... :nonono:

I wish someone knew what this clunk is & how to make it go away... :fm:

Is it possible it's in your tranny? I still have a small clunk in 5th and 6th gear, but it's pretty much non existent in 1st -4th.
 

Taz

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I wish this were the case & a simple fix (but it's not)... :( I have upgraded the front IRS mounting bolts to the correct 14mm, I have done the diff bushings, the Billet Flow IRS cover brace, & the IRS subframe busings & the clunk is still there... :nonono:

I wish someone knew what this clunk is & how to make it go away... :fm:

I'm pretty sure I can tell you what the source of your clunk is. It's most likely your OEM inner CV joints on your halfshafts, just like mine is.

My '01 didn't come from the factory with forged inner CV's, but I added them when I installed aftermarket axles. Since my L5's didn't come with inner stubs, I bought a Terminator set. I never had "the clunk" before installing these. Now, I do. I've just learned to shift around it.

Read this page for more about the Terminator forged inner CV's ...

DSS Chromoly inner CV's

Hope this helps.
 

redfiresvtsnake

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I'm pretty sure I can tell you what the source of your clunk is. It's most likely your OEM inner CV joints on your halfshafts, just like mine is.

My '01 didn't come from the factory with forged inner CV's, but I added them when I installed aftermarket axles. Since my L5's didn't come with inner stubs, I bought a Terminator set. I never had "the clunk" before installing these. Now, I do. I've just learned to shift around it.

Read this page for more about the Terminator forged inner CV's ...

DSS Chromoly inner CV's

Hope this helps.

I totally forgot about the inner cv's. I had mine replaced under warranty and the clunk was still there. I never had the clunk completely fixed before my warranty expired.
 

hotcobra03

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thats for the pic of the bolts ..im going with the grade 8 9/16 bolt.because it has a longer shoulder on it..ford had a problem like this on thier 4x4 trucks for years
 

Predatorbird

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is it safe to use a regular nut and a lock washer? i'm having the hardest time finding a locking nut here in town and i'm just about to give up for now.
 

Fastphil

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If it were me, I'd go with a lock washer and double nut it just to be safe. Heck, use some Loctite red on tere while you're at it. Last thing you want is the rear suspension faling out of your car!
 

Predatorbird

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is there enough bolt to double nut it? this is becoming more of a hassle than anything. i'm getting my suspension installed on thurs and i figured i might as well replace the bolt since they are going to drop the irs to get the springs out. the last thing i need is my irs to fall off the car as i'm driving.
 

Fastphil

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I don't know exactly how wide a regular nut is compared to a Nylock, but I'd say about 2/3, and with the Nylock, there was about 1/2" of thread left. I'd say that there's enough thread for a double nut, but you could always go for a 5" bolt just to be sure. There's a lot of extra space where the threaded end of the bolt is to put a longer one there.
 

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