Thru the floor subframe connectors.

[racebronco2]

I made my own sfc similar to griggs sfc. The materials cost was 33.00 for 2"x 2" x .120 x 20'. You can't tell i even have them unless you look behind the seats. In front they are about 1/2" higher then the floor (drivers side footwell shown)

(passengers footwell shown)

and are about 1" higher from the middle of the front seats

to about 2 1/2" higher towards the rear seats, the carpet fits under the sfc in the rear. The tubing had to be reduced to 1 1/2

to go thru the rear subframe past where the lower irs bolts attaches to the body

. The picture below is where the tubing goes thru the bulkhead (i used a black marker on the welds to locate where the rear subframe is welded to the bulkhead)

about 15 inches past the lower irs bolt. I also cut out a 14 gauge plate with plenty of holes in it to plug weld to the bulkhead and to weld the sfc tubing to also. I had more pictures but can't seem to find them.

 

[racebronco2]

The review... at autoclub roval

Most mods only help a little and some make us slower but we think they make us faster, we just hate to think we spent hundreds $$$ for nothing. The car didn't feel right when i drove it on the street, checked the front and rear suspension and set the front toe-in at zero. Still didn't feel right but couldn't put my finger on it.

At the track and after the warm-up lap got to about 120mph into t-1, 110mph into t-2 and accelerated to 120mph before braking for t-3 but at i was trail braking the car over steered so bad that i almost spun my car. The next couple of turns i had to be really careful when turning in. Came in and checked the car for a broken front swaybar link but everything was fine. The second I added more pressure in the rear, helped a little but it was still oversteering to much. Third session i loosened up the rear swaybar and that seem to help and the car is about where i want it now .... just a little oversteer. I was having fuel problem which caused me to end my day early.

I should've have done the thru the floor sfc sooner.
I never had a problem with oversteer (mustang and oversteer oxymoron).
On my second session with an i'll handling car i was only 4 seconds off my best time even though i was going about 10-15 mph slower on the front straight thru t-2.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

That was the only thing you changed and it made that big of a difference?That is impressive. I would not have thought it made that much difference. Does the car feel ok on the street now that you softened up the rear bar?

 

[racebronco2]

That was the only thing you changed and it made that big of a difference?That is impressive. I would not have thought it made that much difference. Does the car feel ok on the street now that you softened up the rear bar?

I had to use AAA to get the car home. The pumps you can hear when u turn the key but it doesn't have enough pressure to shoot the fuel out of the schauder valve, it's more like it flows out (about 1" up ) at first and then drips. I am going to test the punps and the bap module tomorrow.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I had to use AAA to get the car home. The pumps you can hear when u turn the key but it doesn't have enough pressure to shoot the fuel out of the schauder valve, it's more like it flows out (about 1" up ) at first and then drips. I am going to test the punps and the bap module tomorrow.

Maybe a leak on one of the internal fuel lines. Have you deleted the PPRV?

 

[ac427cobra]

Carlos:

Were you driving without any SFC's prior to this?! :shrug:

 

[mu22stang]

20psirabbit posted an interesting solution for integrating the MM FLSFC with a MM 6-point roll cage. Other than making the 6-point a solid rather than hinged unit, this looks like a good cheap alternative for greatly increasing chassis rigidy without the cost of a custom roll bar/cage - linky. Thoughts?

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

20psirabbit posted an interesting solution for integrating the MM FLSFC with a MM 6-point roll cage. Other than making the 6-point a solid rather than hinged unit, this looks like a good cheap alternative for greatly increasing chassis rigidy without the cost of a custom roll bar/cage - linky. Thoughts?

I really liked that. and thought it was a very good compromise solution.

 

[racebronco2]

Maybe a leak on one of the internal fuel lines. Have you deleted the PPRV?

I haven't done the pprv cause i bought the n2mb no lift shift. It easier on the tranny since it cuts the spark between shifts.

Carlos:

Were you driving without any SFC's prior to this?! :shrug:

I made my own with jacking rails.

20psirabbit posted an interesting solution for integrating the MM FLSFC with a MM 6-point roll cage. Other than making the 6-point a solid rather than hinged unit, this looks like a good cheap alternative for greatly increasing chassis rigidy without the cost of a custom roll bar/cage - linky. Thoughts?

He did a real nice job tying them together. I didn't want mm flsfc because you lose ground clearance. I was thinking about tying the rear rollbar into the thru the floor sfc behind the front seats not under the car.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I haven't done the pprv cause i bought the n2mb no lift shift. It easier on the tranny since it cuts the spark between shifts.

That WOT box is pretty cool. I thought about getting one of those. How do you like it?

The OEM hose in the tank is pretty crappy. If you end up having to go in the tank to troubleshoot, replace it with some good fuel submersible hose.

 

[racebronco2]

That WOT box is pretty cool. I thought about getting one of those. How do you like it?

The OEM hose in the tank is pretty crappy. If you end up having to go in the tank to troubleshoot, replace it with some good fuel submersible hose.

I can power shift all the time without missing a gear. I want to go back to the strip to get a mid 11'second time. Best so far was 12.01 speed shifting. The wot box spices off of our clutch switch so if you barely touch the pedal it cuts the spark. It does take a little to get used to it. I found out it works best when you are about to shift you just slam (not push )the pedal to the floor as fast as possibly and grab the next gear. I can now powershift (without using the wot) using the same method but the tires spin like crazy from 1st to 2nd and spin a few times from 2nd to 3rd. Much more controlled with the wot when using street tires.

 

[sunburned]

Good luck with the fuel issues. I had a hose come off one of my pumps in the tank as well. It was a good thing though because it was then I discovered the hack job wiring on the dual pump setup inside the tank of the car I had just bought. Replaced it with a FORE hat and no more problems.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I can power shift all the time without missing a gear. I want to go back to the strip to get a mid 11'second time. Best so far was 12.01 speed shifting. The wot box spices off of our clutch switch so if you barely touch the pedal it cuts the spark. It does take a little to get used to it. I found out it works best when you are about to shift you just slam (not push )the pedal to the floor as fast as possibly and grab the next gear. I can now powershift (without using the wot) using the same method but the tires spin like crazy from 1st to 2nd and spin a few times from 2nd to 3rd. Much more controlled with the wot when using street tires.

I've tuned some Subarus and Evos with the same functionality, it is a lot of fun in a turbo AWD car.

I dont even power shift my Cobra because it blows off the tires and I feel like I lose time on the street.

The Turbo Cobalt SS comes with no lift shifting from the factory!

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Also, did our friend (green 95 gt) have an off and slide into the wall as AAA Speedway last weekend?

I saw pictures of a Green SN95... and was wondering if it was him.

 

[racebronco2]

Also, did our friend (green 95 gt) have an off and slide into the wall as AAA Speedway last weekend?

I saw pictures of a Green SN95... and was wondering if it was him.

If he had an atomic motorsports sticker that was him. He hit the wall after the button hook but lucky for him he just scratched up his front bumper a little.

 

[racebronco2]

Removed the pumps and the pprv appears to be bad. Talked to LargeOrangeFont and he verified the pprv was bad. Thanks ashley. I will get some submersible fuel line and have the car ready for this weekend.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Removed the pumps and the pprv appears to be bad. Talked to LargeOrangeFont and he verified the pprv was bad. Thanks ashley. I will get some submersible fuel line and have the car ready for this weekend.

Anytime, and thanks for the info. :banana:

 

[racebronco2]

Up-date on the pprv ...... i eliminated the pprv and the car still wouldn't run. I jumped the pumps and fuel pressure was 60psi. Removed the vacuum line to the frps and it was dry so i removed the connector and it started right up. I think it's unusual that both the pprv and fprs went bad at the same time.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Up-date on the pprv ...... i eliminated the pprv and the car still wouldn't run. I jumped the pumps and fuel pressure was 60psi. Removed the vacuum line to the frps and it was dry so i removed the connector and it started right up. I think it's unusual that both the pprv and fprs went bad at the same time.

That is odd. At least it will be bulletproof now.

 

[racebronco2]

I had to replace the battery also. I guess it's better that i had these problems all in the same week.