Timing belt on a 92 SHO

V8muscle

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Have you looked at a service manual? It is a pretty straight forward process. The process isn't any different for the 89-95 MTX.

Consider replacing the water pump, crank position sensor, and front crankshaft seal while you have it apart.

Basically, you remove battery, belts, idler pulleys and brackets, crank pulley, and then the three front covers. That gives you access to the timing belt, water pump, and crank sensor. Reassembly is the reverse.

Best hint, get a manual.

Bill
 

LIGHTNING LARRY

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V8muscle said:
Have you looked at a service manual? It is a pretty straight forward process. The process isn't any different for the 89-95 MTX.

Consider replacing the water pump, crank position sensor, and front crankshaft seal while you have it apart.

Basically, you remove battery, belts, idler pulleys and brackets, crank pulley, and then the three front covers. That gives you access to the timing belt, water pump, and crank sensor. Reassembly is the reverse.

Best hint, get a manual.

Bill

NO, I haven't. I don't have a manual. That's why I asked here. :p
 

V8muscle

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Guess if I reread my response, it could be taken that I was being smart a$$. But I wasn't trying to be. :beer:

Anyhow, from the Service Manual CD: 3.0 DOHC Timing Belt
Removal

1. Disconnect battery cables.

2. Remove battery (10653).

3. Remove RH front engine support damper (6F028) as outlined in «Section 02-03».

4. Disconnect wiring to ignition control module.

4. Remove engine air inlet connector bolts.

6. Loosen engine air inlet connector hose clamps.

7. Remove engine air inlet connector.

8. Loosen generator/A/C (6 rib) drive belt tensioner pulley. Relieve tension on drive belt (8620) by backing out adjustment screw.

9. Remove generator/A/C drive belt.

10. Loosen water pump/power steering (4 rib) drive belt tensioner pulley. Relieve tension on drive belt by backing out adjustment screw.

11. Remove water pump/power steering drive belt.

12. Remove generator/A/C drive belt tensioner pulley and bracket assembly.

13. Remove water pump/power steering drive belt tensioner pulley only.

14. Remove upper outer timing belt cover.

15. Disconnect crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connectors.

16. Place transaxle in NEUTRAL.

17. Set engine to top dead center (TDC) on No. 1 cylinder. Make sure that "white" mark on crankshaft vibration damper and pulley aligns with 0 degree index mark on lower outer timing belt cover and that marks on intake camshaft sprockets align with index marks on upper inner timing belt cover.

18. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

19. Remove RH front wheel and tire assembly. Refer to «Section 04-04».

20. Loosen front fender splash shield and place out of the way.

21. Remove crankshaft vibration damper and pulley using Steering Wheel Puller T67L-3600-A, Step Plate Adapter D80L-630-3 or equivalent, and Screw and Washer Set T89P-6701-A.

22. Remove lower outer timing belt cover.

23. Remove center outer timing belt cover and disconnect crankshaft position (CKP) sensor wire and grommet from the slot in the outer timing belt cover and stud on water pump (8501).

24. Loosen timing belt tensioner idler pulley (6M250), rotate idler pulley 180 degrees clockwise using an Allen wrench, and tighten timing belt tensioner idler pulley nut to hold pulley in the "unload position."

25. Lower vehicle.

25. Remove timing belt.

Installation

1. CAUTION: Before installing timing belt, inspect it for cracks, wear or other damage. Replace if damaged. Do not allow timing belt to come in contact with gasoline, oil, water, coolant or steam. Do not twist, or turn belt inside out.

Check the belt to make sure the following has been done.

a. Always store timing belt in a cool dark place.

b. Always keep belt in protective packaging until ready for use.

c. Never hit or squeeze belt with hammer or screwdriver.

Make sure engine is at top dead center (TDC) on No. 1 cylinder. Check that camshaft sprocket index marks line up with index marks on upper inner timing belt cover and that crankshaft sprocket (6306) aligns with index mark on oil pump (6600).

2. NOTE: The timing belt has three yellow lines. Each line aligns with the index marks shown.

Install timing belt on crankshaft sprocket and route to camshaft sprockets. Lettering on timing belt "KOA" should be readable from rear of engine (top of lettering to front of engine). Also make sure that the yellow lines are aligned with the index marks on all the sprockets.

3. Release timing belt tensioner idler pulley locknut and leave nut loose.

4. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

5. Install center outer timing belt cover. Make sure crankshaft position sensor wiring and grommet are installed and routed properly. Tighten retaining bolts to 7-11 N-m (62-97 lb-in).

6. Install lower outer timing belt cover. Tighten retaining bolts to 7-11 N-m (62-97 lb-in).

7. Install crankshaft vibration damper and pulley using Crankshaft Seal Installer/Cover Aligner T88T-6701-A with forcing screw from Vibration Damper and Seal Installer T82L-6316-A or equivalent.

8. Rotate crankshaft two revolutions clockwise until the yellow index mark on crankshaft vibration damper and pulley aligns with 0 degree index mark on lower outer timing belt cover.

9. Remove plastic door in the lower outer timing belt cover. Tighten timing belt tensioner idler pulley lock nut to 33-51 N-m (24-38 lb-ft) and install plastic door.

10. Rotate crankshaft 60 degrees more in the clockwise direction until the white index mark on the crankshaft vibration damper and pulley aligns with 0 degree index mark on lower outer timing belt cover.

11. Lower vehicle.

12. Make sure index marks on camshaft sprockets align with index marks on upper inner timing belt cover.

13. Route crankshaft position sensor wiring and connect with fuel charging wiring (9D930).

14. Install upper outer timing belt cover. Tighten retaining bolts to 7-11 N-m (62-97 lb-in).

15. Install water pump pulley (8509). Tighten retaining nut to 16-23 N-m (12-17 lb-ft).

16. Install generator/A/C drive belt tensioner pulley and bracket assembly. Tighten bolts to 15-23 N-m (11-17 lb-ft).

17. Install water pump/power steering (4 rib) drive belt. Using Rotunda Offset Belt Tension Gauge 021-0028A or equivalent, set drive belt tension. Tighten drive belt tensioner pulley retaining nut to 34-50 N-m (25-36 lb-ft).

a. New belt: 690-880 N (154-198 lb)

b. Used belt: 500-700 N (112-157 lb)

18. Install generator/A/C (6 rib) drive belt. Using Rotunda Offset Belt Tension Gauge 021-0028A or equivalent, set drive belt tension. Tighten drive belt tensioner pulley nut to 34-50 N-m (25-36 lb-ft).

a. New belt: 980-1180 N (220-265 lb)

19. Install engine air inlet connector. Tighten bolts to 15-23 N-m (11-17 lb-ft). Tighten hose clamps securely.

20. Install front engine support damper.

21. Install battery.

22. Connect battery cables.

23. Raise vehicle.

24. Install front fender splash shield.

25. Install RH front tire and wheel assembly. Tighten lug nuts to 115-142 N-m (85-105 lb-ft).

26. Lower vehicle.

I had to leave out the diagrams, but can put them in a Word document and email that if it helps.

Bill

us black Lightning guys have to stick together (even if mine is 9 years older)
 
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Ryan

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Larry, it's really not all that hard, just a PITA considering the space. However, if you do do it, there are other parts you should replace since you have it apart, otherwise you have to go through the same process. Front seal, Crankshaft sensor, lower hose, and waterpump, are the ones I can remember off the top of my head. I'd plan for a weekend to complete the work. Also the MTX SHOs, have a manual tensioner on the timing belt too. The ATX (3.2L) have an 'automatic' tensioner for the timing belt.
 
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LIGHTNING LARRY

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RTStabler51 said:
Larry, it's really not all that hard, just a PITA considering the space. However, if you do do it, there are other parts you should replace since you have it apart, otherwise you have to go through the same process. Front seal, Crankshaft sensor, lower hose, and waterpump, are the ones I can remember off the top of my head. I'd plan for a weekend to complete the work. Also the MTX SHOs, have a manual tensioner on the timing belt too. The ATX (3.2L) have an 'automatic' tensioner for the timing belt.

Ok. Well it runs good now, but has 100,000 miles on the original belt.
I was told it's time. I believe him.
 

Ryan

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On the MTX SHOs, the interval for the timing belt is 60k. On the ATX SHOs it is 100k. The difference is due to the tensioner I spoke of earlier. The good thing about the SHO motor is if the timing belt lets go, the valves will be ok....
 

Ryan

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MTX = Manual Transaxle. And its technically 40k past due ;-) You and your damn RWD brain :p
 

Red03SVTVert

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Man I guess there really are SHO's everywhere. I am working on getting out of the game, but I gotta take delivery of my 03 first.
 

Chris!

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Larry, do a search on SHOforum.com about the 60k service. Thats really what it sounds like you need. Its very worth it, car runs better, gets better gas mileage, longer life of everything.

After 4 SHO's I was happy to get out, but its tempting to go back to one as a daily driver with the way gas prices are. But my lightning seems to see above 20mpg on a regular basis, so I'm not complaining. :)


Goodluck with SHO ownership, its a trip to say the least.
 

LIGHTNING LARRY

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Chris Benvie said:
Larry, do a search on SHOforum.com about the 60k service. Thats really what it sounds like you need. Its very worth it, car runs better, gets better gas mileage, longer life of everything.

After 4 SHO's I was happy to get out, but its tempting to go back to one as a daily driver with the way gas prices are. But my lightning seems to see above 20mpg on a regular basis, so I'm not complaining. :)


Goodluck with SHO ownership, its a trip to say the least.

I really like this car. The gas mileage ROCKS. It's a kick to drive.

20mpg Chris????????????? I have to raise this :bs:
 

LIGHTNING LARRY

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The BigSHO said:
Larry,

Enjoy the SHO. They are a fun car that was ahead of its time.

Besides us Red 92s need to stick together... ;-)

Keith

Thanks Keith. I got on it pretty good the other day from a 10mph roll. That little 6cyl RUNS!!!! But I drive it pretty easy most of the time. I don't need 2 vehicles that don't run. It gets well over double the gas mileage of my Lightning. But seems like I always had my foot in the Lightning. :lol1:
 

Ryan

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Yup, MTX SHOs from a roll will surprise quite a few cars...
 

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