Yea, seen the video earlier. Good for him (ML)! Glad to see and hear its nothing catastrophic. As others have noted looks like he is going turbo's, his supercharger and cams have allready been sold and he is parting out with a few other parts.
Trinity article about motors blowing up
- Thread starter WicK
- Start date
I just saw it,i wonder why he is going turbo?Well maybe just to change it up.I remember a while back someone put turbos on a 13-14 GT500,and he lost every roll race he was in.So,who knows.
Twin turbos, setup correctly, will be wildly fast! And the anti-lag and TC in the MOTEC will be perfect. Hard to beat properly setup turbo system on a long geared GT500. Plus he can make 1500+whp on a stock crank and generally have a safer engine combination. These big blowers are hard on components
Your right on spot about that comment @Turbo98GT !! Watch this video @Cobra Therapy starting at 8:20. Twin turbo set-up is no joke!!!
Yes i have seen that green car do its thing.It has like 2000hp and is a 6 speed.I do not down twin turbos ,he wants to have the best of bothe worlds and like some have said,maybe he should have a race car,and another car be his street car.The worlds fastest street car in the 1 mile run is a twin turbo FORD GT!!!You know the one with the proper motor in it,05-06.
I doubt you’ll be able to do the 15” but if you have the same Wildwood’s brakes like I do it’ll clear 15”.
I have some 17x10 and 17x11 and 18x10.5s in addition to the 15x10.5 Welds. You’re more than welcome to test fit them and even test them out before you commit. I’m assuming 3.73 gears? If so you’ll be happier with a 28” like the 325/50/15 or 305/45/17 or 315/40/18. If you’re SAI upgrade is the 9” I’d personally recommend the 4.11/4.00/3.89 range and forget the 15” and go with the taller 30” 315/50/17 ET Street R.
It is by far the best setup for big power (or tall 315/60/15). Taller sidewall greatly improves traction.
20” front 15” rear tends to look funky.
I run an 18” front and either 15” rear (bias ply 28x-2’u?,strip only) and 17” rear (315/50/17).
I’m sure we’ll get together in spring
-J
Yessir twin 72s and 11:1 5.8 on good fuel and some 3.27s and a sequential aftermarket gear set Tremec sounds about right. I’ll keep my 315/50/17s too
-J
Yea i have the 4 piston big Brake wilwood's J. 15x11"s with 325/50/15 ET Street R'S I think would fit perfect with that widebody kit and fill the wheel well. I believe my SS rim and tire O.D is 28.1 so it be perfect fit IMO as long as it clears the brake. 18's upfront are a good choice as well it would work. Im staying with 3.73 and the 8.8. Gonna weld the tubes and upgrade to Torsen posi traction diff, 33" spline moser shafts and 3 inch race wheel studs. I want to keep this as a street car J but when I track it I want it to be safe and capable of launching down the track properly. Im pretty mind set on the RTS S77 3 piece forged W/ black facing if thats what you have. Let me know. SAI is super busy right now so hopefully they get me in this winter to do all the upgrades. If they bend me over im going to watson racing to have everything done. The only thing im concerned about is how well the fiber glass over lay body panels are gonna hold up before stress cracks come up. IDK but we shall see how well it was installed. It's really the only real draw back and concern cause it would cost big $$$ to fix. It shoulnt be an issue...... but you know how that works in the realm of just having alittle fun racing.
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You're going to be picking up pieces of 8.8. Bite the bullet and go 9".
Tom
Tom
Yea @tomshep its crossed my mind that a 8.8 wont last long and a 9 inch will be a more sensible approach from a longer term investment . I was pricing a currie 9" and the cost is not much more than trying to build a 8.8. A new thread for 9" rearends and recommendations is coming. Thanks!
05-14 Mustang 9-Inch Rear End Builder
Currie fabricated 9-inch Rearends for 2005 thru 2014 5th gen Mustang, are complete, direct bolt-in assemblies, offered with your choice of popular differential types and gear ratios
Full Build Options (6-week lead time)
Select Axle Spline * 35-Spline Axles Select Gear Case * HD-Pro Aluminum Case [+$414.00] Select Gear Ratio * 3.70 Gears Polished [+$150.00] or 3.89 Gears Polished [+$150.00]
Select Differential * Eaton Truetrac [+$650.00]
Select Pinion Yoke * 1350 Chromoly Yoke (CE-4044BK) [+$30.00] Select Wheel Stud Size * 1/2 x 3 in. Press in studs [+$20.00] Powder Coat * Satin Black Powder Coat (CE-0091H1) [+$200.00]
$5,720.00
Even as it sits now my current 8.8 sure does look inadequate with those 20" 345's
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I have a Strange 9” based on the Cobra Jet 9” Ford developed with Strange for the S197.
Currie makes good stuff but Strange gets my money.
-J
Currie makes good stuff but Strange gets my money.
-J
I agree with this. >1000 really is not that much fun in a shelby. You are way past the limits of brakes and chassis at this point. You can't really do half mile runs on the on ramp so straight line capability is a waste. Balance beats power and ~800 whp is perfect IMO.
Can't go wrong with a strange 9" that's for sure J. Gonna do some more in depth research and gonna go with the strongest, lightest 9" that makes the most sense. The less unsprung weight the better for my setup. My reasoning behind Currie is that's what SAI used in the shelby 2013-14 1000 build. SAI had a 1000hp package which is 1100rwhp to the rear tires. My goal is to duplicate the package w/ the help of a Motec 150 ECU to adjust power levels as needed for a balanced mostly street/ occasionally trip to the track car. Yes...its expensive as hell !! We all work and play for some reason in life!! There are some things that you just cant put a price tag on....if it makes you happy.....life is short my friends...live your life!
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Agreed although I live just on the outside of town and all I need to do Irma head west and I have corn fields and straight roads in every direction. The roads thankfully are really good for high speed runs. I rarely go over 150 but when datalogging for the track I occasionally have to top out 4th gear at 7200rpm
-J
I didn’t know that about the S1000. I still have a pic my wife took on our first trip Vegas sitting in a Kona blue S1000. At that point she was pregnant with our son and my ‘14 was on order (he and my ‘14 were both born same week) but she wouldn’t let me do a deposit on the S1000 conversion. Women
In your case Vinnie I’d definitely keep
It to SAI specs. Talk to you soon on the ‘22!
-J
That's the plan to keep it to SAI Specs of the S1000.....except for the motec ecu which is 10x better. I'm already knee deep....my as well go all the way!I didn’t know that about the S1000. I still have a pic my wife took on our first trip Vegas sitting in a Kona blue S1000. At that point she was pregnant with our son and my ‘14 was on order (he and my ‘14 were both born same week) but she wouldn’t let me do a deposit on the S1000 conversion. Women
In your case Vinnie I’d definitely keep
It to SAI specs. Talk to you soon on the ‘22!
-J
I approve of this plan. If I’m your shoes I’d do the same and the Motec will protect the investment and can easily be hidden/unnoticeable.
I’m about to schedule the Holley EFI conversion on my ‘14 and I feel like we should talk.
-J
Yea for sure it's the right thing to do J, with less than 200 of these SS produced for 2013 I would be doing a disservice to the car and not keeping it to it's TRUE making. The 1000 hp pkg was a option to SS owners who wanted to upgrade to shelby 1000 performance level. The Motec 150 ECU will harness the hp to any desire at anytime and keep the car more manageable and still fun to drive but yet unleash it's full potential at the press of a button. Pretty bada$$ IMO!! I'm sure shelby would of went this route if they could of got the right price point and squeezed into 250k S1000 build...lmao. Although they are going this route (Motec 150) with a new twin turbo build that has yet been disclosed to the public.
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