Ill look ahead in the instructions and see which bracket mounts there so I can test fit.
TVS owners that installed it themselves
- Thread starter SILV03MustangGT
- Start date
Its the Feed bracket.
The install was not bad at all. The instructions are detailed and basically show you exactly what to do step by step. I would highly recommend doing an inventory on the parts because I was missing the large FEAD pulley bracket and didn't realize until half way into the install.
Roush overnight-d the part and that was the only hiccup I had during the install.
Roush overnight-d the part and that was the only hiccup I had during the install.
Sure. Good luck with that.
Speaking as a "pro" who used to design and build large electrical and electronic systems, I can say with authority that the article should be entitled "How not to solder anything, ever". There is no useful advice in it.
There are no soldering jobs that a properly trained electronic tech would use a solder gun for. They're crude and unwieldly. The same goes for a butane torch. You can destroy the wiring harness with it in a heartbeat.
How did you guys bleed the intercooler and radiator?
Also where are you guys getting your boost/vac readings from?
I filled the ic reservoir, let it sit a little bit, filled again. Had wife turn key on while I started pouring it in till it started coming out of return.
For cooling system, I kept what I drained out and poured it back in. Stared it up,er it warm up, topped off. Did that once more and every drop I took out went back the second time.
I've read about people having problems getting both air free, but mine went very well. Very easy.
For cooling system, I kept what I drained out and poured it back in. Stared it up,er it warm up, topped off. Did that once more and every drop I took out went back the second time.
I've read about people having problems getting both air free, but mine went very well. Very easy.
LOL thats all we use at my job.
Like I said, you have your way, I have a different approach. Keep your sub-par connections and I will have zero voltage drop with proper connections.
I could really care less how you wire up your car, I won't see it.
There was the ground that was on the stud that you took out of the pass cylinder head. Where did you hook that back up to? Mine I would have to widen out to put on the bolt the replaced it
I would use a solder pencil on home jobs without hesitation on wires smaller than 16-20 awg and only for wire to wire splices if I didnt have a solder station available. I wouldnt hesitate because I have soldered for a living for the past 10-12 years. I wouldnt recommend an amateur or shade tree mechanic that rarely solders to go out and buy an expensive solder station. What ever you do dont use crimp on butt splices, wire nuts or butane torches. lol
Make sure you tin all of your wire ends before soldering your connection. I usually like to point my bare wire end toward the ground when Im tinning the wire so the solder doesnt wick up the wire under the jacket. Id recommend using J-hooks for your connection points and covering your solder joint with adhesive heat shrink then covering up the whole harness with convoluted tubing.
Like said before get some spare wire and practice for a bit before you solder your harness on your car.
Make sure you tin all of your wire ends before soldering your connection. I usually like to point my bare wire end toward the ground when Im tinning the wire so the solder doesnt wick up the wire under the jacket. Id recommend using J-hooks for your connection points and covering your solder joint with adhesive heat shrink then covering up the whole harness with convoluted tubing.
Like said before get some spare wire and practice for a bit before you solder your harness on your car.
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The soldering is good I had my avionics buddy do it. Now about this ground?. Lol
I don't recall having that issue with a ground on mine so i can't help you there. But, I would not hesitate to hold it with a lair of pliers and drill it out. Or snip the ring so it'll expand and fit over the larger stud.
Sounds good I'll just widen it out. I can't start the car yet since I'm waiting on the tune but I'm curious about my aeroforce gauge. When the key is in the on position the gauge comes on but if I'm not messing with it, it will cycle off and then cycle on. Is this normal for the gauge and will it run normal while the cars running or is there a gauge issue?
Gauge is good, where did you guys get you boost/vac from this is the last thing and she is all done. Help!
A few things.
The boost vacuum can be found on the passengers side rear of the intake manifold
In your pictures the boss you have cut, will have to but cut level to match the height of the other two bosses you ground down.
The radiator and IC will bleed down on their own. On the reservoirs leave the caps off or loose so the fluid can bleed down. It shouldn't take more than an hour or two. After warm up check the levels again.
The boost vacuum can be found on the passengers side rear of the intake manifold
In your pictures the boss you have cut, will have to but cut level to match the height of the other two bosses you ground down.
The radiator and IC will bleed down on their own. On the reservoirs leave the caps off or loose so the fluid can bleed down. It shouldn't take more than an hour or two. After warm up check the levels again.
heres what ive ground down on the cover so far, i didn't get to work on the car much today. you think this is low enough or should i go a little lower?
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Thanks scuba, i got it all taken care of, holy hell this thing is now a monster that Shaun's working his magic on it!
Yeah im going to switch to a vmp tune and add a pulley....and hope i dont need bigger injectors yet (have 47# now)
Shaun had me do a pull last night all the way to 7500 he said fueling looked good and no issues and i have the 47s and no BAP on the 82mm pulley and stock box with AFE drop in. I am a little bummed about how quiet it is with the box. I think a JLT is the next thing.
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