Vert Owners - Help Out With Wheelhop Please

[funmoneypit]

Ok, I know this has been beat to death. I have done a ton of research but I am looking for convertible owners actual experiences. I just bought an '04 cobra 'vert and have wheel hop really bad. Now there are a lot of contributing issues going on. First it's cold out. Second, my tires are original (19K on the car) and third, it is a 'vert.

So... right off the bat I am looking at new tires. I am also ordering some FLSFC. I have read about all the IRS sub-frame bushing upgrades. So here is where I am looking for some help. I know the FTBR full kit is probably one of the best ways to go but with everything else I want to do to the car, I was hoping to wait a little on the kit with the cost and dropping the entire IRS.

I have also put an order in for warmer weather but that keeps getting rejected! lol

What have other 'vert owners done to eliminate or at least limit the wheel hop without dropping the entire IRS?

Any help is greatly appreciated and I have done tons of searches so please don't ask me to do a search.

Thanks!!

Got to add one pic!

 

[94slowbra1]

stiffen the chassis
build the irs
better shocks and springs
tires will also play a role

 

[s351]

Rear tires with more sidewall. Full length sub frame connectors, bushing kit for the irs, is where you should start. Don't skimp out on the irs bushings, it's a major contributing factor. Do it right once, if you can afford it rather then snapping half shafts, and then doing it right.

 

[03' White Snake]

Tires will aid in stopping wheel hop. Then bushings, do the bushings once and right.... FTBR. They are a PITA but worth every cent and swear word while installing.

 

[P49Y-CY]

tires will be the best. if you can run on drag radials all the time, do it. not very practical, I know.

 

[R.D.P.]

Don't forget a diff brace or FRPP Cover so you don't crack your diff if it does hop. I don't think there is a magic bullet, but good tires are definitely a big help.

 

[NC03SVT]

A wider tire is going to help with traction but wont matter unless its a stickier tire. I run nitto 555 in 315/35/17 and I only get wheelhop in 1st unless its below 60-65 degrees then some in second. Ill be going to a stickier tire soon. Probably r888 since its not my DD. Stiffer springs will also help out. I run H&R race springs. I still dont have subframe connectors yet its on the to do list. Just busted my pinion seal from wheel hopping the other day.

 

[Goose17]

Nice Mystichrome score... Congrats!

 

[funmoneypit]

Nice Mystichrome score... Congrats!

Thanks! Nice collection you have there!

And thanks to everyone that has replied. So kind of what I expected, do it right once and be done.

Like I said, I am doing tires and FLSFC first. I will see how that helps after it gets warm but the FTBR kit is on my list also.

Thanks again.

 

[jrgoffin]

A ton here (although mine's a Coupe):

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/suspension.htm

Have had the Prothane poly bushings in mine for several years - still good as new, no issues with hop.

 

[Franco]

subframe connectors should be job one. I would def do a diff cover and some lowering springs. That's what's done to mine and it has helped greatly. Haven't done the bushings yet so not sure but I heard they are great

 

[funmoneypit]

A ton here (although mine's a Coupe):

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/suspension.htm

Have had the Prothane poly bushings in mine for several years - still good as new, no issues with hop.

Great reading there. I have bookmarked that and will reference it a lot.

Thanks!

 

[FromGTtoSVT]

1. FLSFC - Check out Stifflers
2. progressive rate spring like H&R sport
3. Full Tilt boggie racing bushing kit
4. sticky tire
5. upgrade the diff cover to the FRPP

With the exception of #5, I have done them all and just about eliminated wheel hop on my car. Congrats on the purchase

 

[braindontstop31]

+1

Exactly this and as mentioned Stifflers FIT first.

 

[jpk]

Having really ancient tires is doing you no good, they will be shot. Good that you are already getting new rubber.

The convertible comes with cheap bolt on subframe connectors from the factory. Ditch them for full length weld in, plenty of options. If you want to be extra solid, upgrade to the Stiflers or Global West systems.

You will need to do not just the IRS bushings, but also the differential and control arm bushings. In fact, if you can only afford one, the differential is the most important. But do them all. The parts are cheap but the labor is huge.

Springs and shocks can be done last. When you do these, you will then have to address all the problems with front wheel alignment and it also gets expensive to do right. You will need new tie rods, balljoints, CC plates to get the car to handle right once you change out the springs. So do this last after you cure the wheel hop with the above fixes.

I have done everything above (except full matrix style subframe bracing) and have 0 wheel hop. The car drive smooth and predictably. No hop, just nice smooth launches.

 

[trmnator]

I have been studying all IRS car lately. I come back to bushing every time. Mine is apart now with the plan to replace everything with a plastic like UHMW. Reuse the metal sleeves change bolts if needed for a very tight fit. The only thing that needs to move is the "A" arms and only up and down. Watch a Jag, bmw, Audi burn out. Look under them and see the beefy parts. The time invested in removing everything anyways warrants fixing the flaws.

 

[pmac231]

I have a vert that originally had street tires. I started out putting MM subframe connectors on. The car handled better but still hopped. I put some 315 Toyo TQ DRs on next and virtually no hop. Had a leak from stock rear end cover so put the ftbr differential bushings and frpp cover on. Car felt tighter after and still no hop. I have stock springs and shocks too. Roads are too rough here to lower, for me anyway !!

Overall tires made the biggest impact on wheel hop, hands down !!

 

[351stang]

Add airbags: Airlift kit 60897

Run 8-10 psi on the street and 15-20 at the track.

Replace the front IRS frame bolts with the correct 14mm bolt.

 

[Black2010]

Just did the IRS on my car a couple weeks ago. Broke a wheel hub taking the car off jackstands so I haven't been able to drive it around yet (no clue how this happened) so I can't comment on how it drives now. I'll tell you though:
- Removing IRS = Fairly easy
- Removing stock control arm bushings = PITA
- Removing stock sub frame bushings = PITA
- Removing stock IRS bushings = Piece of cake
- Installing new bushings (I went with Polly) = Piece of cake
- Installing IRS back into the car = PITA (had to do it by myself)

Overall not a real bad job with the exception of getting the stock bushings out. Buy the proper tools and if you can swing it get a press. Harbo freight sells them for $200. I bought one as I need to do my fronts now and I'm done fighting those rubber bushings.