VMP dual fan heat exchanger vs Kincaid Killer chiller
- Thread starter V8Flexin
- Start date
Bypass your H.E. when the KC is turned on. Doing so will substantially increase the IC fluid temp.
I plan to keep the HE in the loop but I may get a 3 way T-valve to bypass it during the summer months. Have to figure out hose routing first though.
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Please report back and let us know how your OVERALL experience is.
You mean decrease the IC fluid temp.
+1. And if possible, please datalog IAT2s (especially if you do any drag racing).
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I second the datalog the IAT2s out doing some fun runs.
Got a couple 1/4 mile fast Friday events this month a Texas motorplex. Try to set up my xcal4 for iat2 gauge and datalog the results. Hopefully I have enough $ after bills to get a action cam and upload the runs on YouTube.
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I would have to figure out a way of mounting my cellphone.
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I already have a windshield mount that can mount either my phone or x4 to. The plan was to mount the x4 in the windshield and film POV style. It would be easier to do that with a action cam. I'll try to figure something out either way.
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Willie - I have followed quite a few of your posts. Love the setup you shared -Nice stuff.
I have been debating additional cooling ever since my relo to the great state of Texas. It gets a tad warm here in the summer, and I have seen 145 degree IAT2s, and the car was a pig at those temps (well - its relative of course)...
Anyway, I cant get past that the factory starts backing timing out at 110 degrees, when the factory pump, by design, runs "on" at about 115ish (I don't remember the number) and "off" at about 104 degrees, meaning we will constantly be in a state of timing retard.
Maybe I am missing something...
Anyway - my quest for my mods has been to first get everything out the car that was promised when I bought it. I.e. full USEABLE power at all times (I know I'm dreaming). That's why I did the suspension mods, shifter, etc.
I see this mod type as necessary to get me to baseline. (I still think a 662 hp car can run in the 10s, but at 11.6, its lacking "something" (Suspension, tire, driver mod, etc.) I hate seeing these 8/10-speed-autos-with-less-power-that-your-grandmother-can-drive kicking our asses all day long.
1) Anyway - how bad is the installation of the chiller killer? I am loathe to cut up the car.
2) Also, on the dual fanned unit - is it a true plug and play? I have read about guys needing to get additional hoses with better bends, and the need to bend or break off some tabs in the front of the radiator. I'm just not sure as to the extent of whats really installs.
Many thanks
Well finished the install today at work. I'm satisfied with the end result but to some people it might not be as visually appealing. It took me about 9 hours to install including trial fitting, multiple evac and recharging of the ac system to get decent high/low pressures (ended with 3.5lbs), foam pipe insulation on cold lines, a trip to Lowes for additional hose for the water side (not supplied), and multiple stops to answer questions from co-workers about what I was doing and how it works. Now that I've installed it, I could probably cut that time in half now. I mounted unit above factory HE next to IC pump on the front crash bar. Kincaid suggest mounting under passenger headlight. You actually have more room/space under the driver headlight. But the supplied ac hose was too short to reach either side by a foot or so. I'll end up probably re-routing the water lines for better fitment and add 90* fittings to reduce the chance of kinks on sharp turns. Took a while for the air to bleed out and get the water pumping strong. Drove home with the ac on (about 20 mi/.30 min) and confirmed the reservoir IC coolant temp at 52*. It was pretty cool out today at 57-60* ambient. Still haven't managed to get my x4 set-up to monitor IAT2 temps.
I believe the factory tune starts to pull timing at around 130* IAT2 and aftermarket tunes usually bump that up to 140* IAT2. And I've never heard of the pump shutting off (maybe true).
1) The killer chiller is a more involved install compared to installing a larger HE. But the performance is night and day so I guess you have to pick your poison. The good thing is that both are a one time install job so... Also the killer chiller is the only way to get below ambient IC coolant temp. It's like running a self-filling ice tank. And being a fellow Texan, I know the dog'ish feeling in the summer and knew a larger fanned HE would not cut it for me @ $800-$1200. You don't have to cut anything on the car to install it depending on where and how you install it. But you will need to drill screw holes to mount the retaining bracket unless you find a spot to mount it sitting which the only place with enough room to do that is where the battery sits (battery relocation required).
2) Most dual fanned units are pretty much plug and play except the CR/Shelby units which comes with a more involved wiring kit. Some units I read require trimming of the radiator wind deflectors. I did trim the wind deflectors as well but when I re-route one of the water lines I did it for, it will be for not. Rubber hose is not good at bending 90*'s without kinking so 90* fittings would be preferred and I'll be adding them for my re-route job too. Overall a dual fanned HE would have been a much easier/simpler install.
The stock tune pulls timing way before it gets anywhere near 130*. It might be model year dependent, but I remember being told on my '11 that the stock tune starts pulling timing at 100*. (Or that might have been with the FRPP ProCal II tune that came w/ my Whipple. Glad I got rid of that tune!) That means, like somebody else said, a stock car is running around on retarded timing almost perpetually.
yea I am not sure about all model years, but my 2009 starts pulling timing at 100*. My tuner actually kept it like that on my tune. Most tuners bump it up to 130* , but mine said he didn't really think it was worth it. Rather keep that safeguard built in for those hot summers here in Louisiana.
I think 100* would be too aggressive since the factory thermostat starts opening at around 200* with operating temp of 230*. But considering our cars don't have knock sensors it may be true. When I bought my car stock and experience my first heat soak I felt I made a grave purchase mistake. I'm sure I could have gotten walked by a coyote on a hot day.
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I have the C/R dual fan heat exchanger and although I haven't documented iat, last oct at Fontana it was around 100 degrees out, I race true street and we are required to run 3 back to back passes after a 30 mile drive, with out cooling off your car or lifting your hood, that being said my last pass was my fastest, 10.93 shutting off at the 1000 mark, so the heat exchangers do work.
Happy to update that with the killer chiller and 170* t-stat, I'm seeing IAT2 temps under 90* (lowest my scan tool can read @2.5v). I've seem my SCT tuner actually show IAT2 temps hovering around 2.7v while highway cruising in 85* weather which is sub ambient temp. Unfortunately it looks like my IC pump is on the way out.
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