What short block recomendations..
- Thread starter highf250
- Start date
i have a boss 5.3 1500 series from mmr. picking it up next week, so far customer service was great. i was dealing with greg from mmr, super nice guy and takes the time to answer all my questions.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2007
- Messages
- 19,528
L&m!
I wish the Aluminators were still available from Ford Racing. I've been trying to locate one. I think they've been gone since last Fall....
I hope your all right about L&M cause that's where my motor is going to.
I bought one around june or july of last year. One of my buddies also bought one a few months back . I guess we got them just in time !
The Aluminator block is just an '05-'10 3V GT block - you can find them easily enough and build your own. It's a beefy block and one I chose over a Teksid.
I'm happy i got my Aluminator . It was a decent price and is already built . Plus i still hae my stock block if i ever want to go crazy with that .
Just bought a 2000 gt from a local guy in Anchorage with a 900 MMR long block....guess why was selling the car??? Another MMR motor failure! 2000 miles on it and of course it isn't under warranty for a spun rod bearing. It's your money, but I sure would look at all the vendors before I put my hard earned money into one of there products.
Another vote for L&M.
I figure that mine is going to cost about 11K
Just for the short block.
The billet crank from Winberg Crankshafts. Oliver rods. And I'm still deciding on pistons, but they will be around 10 to 1 compression, maybe even higher.
Fox lake will be porting the heads.
Block will probably be a Teksid but I may go with built GT500 2013 engine. They are staring to show up from wrecked cars, even faster than I thought they would.
Like I enjoy telling my relatives "I can't take it with me" "And you can't have it anyway!"
I figure that mine is going to cost about 11K
Just for the short block.
The billet crank from Winberg Crankshafts. Oliver rods. And I'm still deciding on pistons, but they will be around 10 to 1 compression, maybe even higher.
Fox lake will be porting the heads.
Block will probably be a Teksid but I may go with built GT500 2013 engine. They are staring to show up from wrecked cars, even faster than I thought they would.
Like I enjoy telling my relatives "I can't take it with me" "And you can't have it anyway!"
yeah i would say a factory ford shortblock is your best bet.....and if you have the cash l&m or a proline deal
Which Aluminum block is the strongest?
From all the reading I have done over the years and recently Still says the Teksid 96-98 Dohc blocks are the strongest ever made... If I'm wrong please proof it to me...
The one Thing that I Absolutely hate about My Terminator and all Terminators is that they are so FREAKIN Heavy!!!!!!! I Hate that!! there are Bros with terminators making 900 rw horsepower and they run a lousy high 9 second pass, and these cars also have a much harder time getting traction because of there heavy ass weight... I was just about to start a thread about engine combo's strokers and what not when I saw this one...
So my questions are simple (dont mean to highjack the thread)
Whats the strongest Aluminum block I can put into my 03 cobra?
Who is for running a 3.750 crank and who is for staying with the stock stroke?
How much more power is the extra 22cubes that you can make with the boss block over a teksid aluminum worth versus the weight?
From all the reading I have done over the years and recently Still says the Teksid 96-98 Dohc blocks are the strongest ever made... If I'm wrong please proof it to me...
The one Thing that I Absolutely hate about My Terminator and all Terminators is that they are so FREAKIN Heavy!!!!!!! I Hate that!! there are Bros with terminators making 900 rw horsepower and they run a lousy high 9 second pass, and these cars also have a much harder time getting traction because of there heavy ass weight... I was just about to start a thread about engine combo's strokers and what not when I saw this one...
So my questions are simple (dont mean to highjack the thread)
Whats the strongest Aluminum block I can put into my 03 cobra?
Who is for running a 3.750 crank and who is for staying with the stock stroke?
How much more power is the extra 22cubes that you can make with the boss block over a teksid aluminum worth versus the weight?
Right from FRPP:
So you me to tell me that this means the stock factory block that comes in an 05 GT mustang is Aluminum? And that its much stronger than a 98 Teksid block? Hell why have I never heard this before I didnt even know 05-present gt mustangs had aluminum blocks, And whats with the million miles of writting about Teksid this Teksid that the strongest block blah blah blah... And so does everything on our 03 cobra engines bolt up perfectly to this aluminum 05 gt mustang block?
This is what Sean Hyland says in his book...
The WAP block on the left has been cast*at Windsor Aluminum Plant since 2001.*The Teksid block on the right was cast in*Italy from 1993 to 1999. The WAP block**shows the extensive ribbing that was*added to compensate for a thinner case*section. The WAP block is 5 lbs lighter*than the Teksid block on the right. The*Teksid block is the strongest production*aluminum case available.Extra external ribbing detail also contributes to a beefier appearance, although the lighter weight*means that the extra ribbing has been added to compensate for a reduction of section thickness in*the case. The NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) block is a derivative of the WAP block, but features*a thicker pan rail for decreased noise. This seems to be the current block in production on the*Marauder. At this time, we have not used the later block for any extreme horsepower applications,*and some attempts by others have resulted in block failure. Our recommendation is that the early*block is the best foundation for power levels above 900 hp, although the later block certainly should*be adequate for moderate power levels of up to 600 hp.
The WAP block on the left has been cast*at Windsor Aluminum Plant since 2001.*The Teksid block on the right was cast in*Italy from 1993 to 1999. The WAP block**shows the extensive ribbing that was*added to compensate for a thinner case*section. The WAP block is 5 lbs lighter*than the Teksid block on the right. The*Teksid block is the strongest production*aluminum case available.Extra external ribbing detail also contributes to a beefier appearance, although the lighter weight*means that the extra ribbing has been added to compensate for a reduction of section thickness in*the case. The NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) block is a derivative of the WAP block, but features*a thicker pan rail for decreased noise. This seems to be the current block in production on the*Marauder. At this time, we have not used the later block for any extreme horsepower applications,*and some attempts by others have resulted in block failure. Our recommendation is that the early*block is the best foundation for power levels above 900 hp, although the later block certainly should*be adequate for moderate power levels of up to 600 hp.
You've just been enlightened, apparently. You only hear about the Teksid because it's still popular, and the forums aren't always going to provide alternatives to things that aren't "popular". Not that the Teksid isn't a great block, but I'd still take the Aluminator. I can also tell you it is a very beefy block (I have one in my garage ready to go) and actually weighs about 10# more than a Tesksid.
Some more block info:
To build a new motor, what's my block options?
Bought a teksid block
Another thread with plenty of pics:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-ford-racing-10-1-aluminator-has-arrived.html
Sean Hyland needs to update his book - it was published in '07.
Users who are viewing this thread
