What's the best oil for YOUR Shelby, answers within.
- Thread starter UnleashedBeast
- Start date
Here's a link to a good white paper that describes oil viscosity, and multi-grade oil testing.
http://www.ideas4ag-ed.com/uploads/...toepfer_understanding_motor_oil_viscosity.pdf
http://www.ideas4ag-ed.com/uploads/...toepfer_understanding_motor_oil_viscosity.pdf
Thanks for sharing.:rockon:
There's another excuse to use Amsoil in your work truck. You can buy their OE line in 5W-20, 5W-30, or 10W-30 for only 4.20 per quart at dealer cost when you are a preferred customer. This oil will easily give you one oil change all year long. It will have no problems with a 1 year/5,000 mile oil change. Why change it twice, when you can change it once and save at least 10.00 a year.
If you want to save money, find a few buddies with gt500's who want to run amsoil and all go in together on the membership. That way one person pays the 20 but you can all just order your oil through one person
As many of you know, I read about engine lubricant technology daily. We have discussed what is the proper engine lubricant to use in your Shelby GT500. I decided to use an online viscosity calculator to map out the viscosity range of 4 different lubricants that were discussed in previous posts by myself, and other members on this board.
The reason for this thread. Some have questioned my previous choice of Amsoil 20W-50 and current choice of Amsoil 10W-40. Some thought it was "too heavy" for a "20W" or "10W" winter weight, and that a 5W-50 was a much better choice to avoid cold start up wear (besides, Ford knows best, right?). Guess what, SAE grade ratings for engine lubricants are very misleading. Let's take a look at the chart that was calculated for me at Widman.
Graph @ 0*C (32*F)
If you pay close attention to the chart, you will clearly see that Amsoil 20W-50 is slightly more viscous than Red Line 5W-50 at 0*C, but less viscous than Motorcraft 5W-50. Do you see one of the advantages of a true group IV synthetic base stock? Do you recall that my sample of Amsoil 20W-50 only sheared 8% in 2,000 miles, but all the Motorcraft and Castrol samples sheared ~25-35% in the same miles of use? See info below.
cSt@100*C
Amsoil - Virgin (18.9) 2,000 miles (17.5)
Motorcraft - Virgin (21.0) 2,000 miles (~12.89-13.5)
Now take a look at my current fill of Amsoil 10W-40. You would think that a "10W" oil would be thicker at 0*C (32*F) than a "5W". It's by far lighter, and much better for cold start up wear, than any of the other three lubricants. I say again, SAE oil grade numbers are very misleading. Amsoil 10W-40 will achieve it's at temperature rated viscosity much faster than any of the other three lubricants. Yes, this means less engine start up wear.
I will be taking my first sample of 10W-40 this week as I have completed the first 2,000 miles. Then I will compose a new calculated chart showing all of the oils after shearing has taken place. You will then see how light Motorcraft and Castrol 5W-50 gets, yet Amsoil retains it's viscosity.
UPDATE:
I made a new chart with results from UOAs after ~2,000 miles. One sample of Amsoil 20W-50 and three different samples of Motorcraft 5W-50.
You can see how Amsoil retained it's virgin viscosity far better than Motorcraft. This is a huge plus for a true group IV base stock and why they can be used for longer periods of time, while also providing better protection.
Now, this is a chart I did to compare the three used Motorcraft samples (~2,000 miles) versus a virgin sample of Amsoil 10W-40.
Do you see how close they are? Since Amsoil shears far less than Motorcraft, does everyone now see WHY I have chosen to use Amsoil 10W-40? Why select a lubricant that will shear when I can protect my engine better with a lubricant than will remain close to its virgin specs?
I hope this helps those who were in doubt to see the light.
Is the first chart based on virgin samples? Looking at that particular chart it would seem that the RL 5/50 is the better oil, based on viscosity, since it's thinner at 40*C and thicker at 100*C. :shrug: It also seem to me that the AM 10/40 is too thin at 100*C and not much thicker than the 2000 mile MC 5/50 in chart #2.
For the person that changes their oil every 1k and only drives in 40+ degree weather, which would be the best choice?
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So he sells Amsoil, so what? He's posting freakin' independent oil samples. I've used Amsoil for years, done multiple tests of different oils in my cars, etc. It's an outstanding oil if you are looking for the best and not merely what is sufficient. Or did we just go back in time a year and are having this discussion all over again?
Do your own testing if you have any concerns. I always do.
Do your own testing if you have any concerns. I always do.
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He stated he had no affiliation with an oil Company, I have no problem with Amsoil, Mobil 1 or Motorcraft.
I do have a problem being marketed to subversively. If you don’t take EVERYTHING this guy states as fact with a large heaping of suspicion you are a fool!
Look at the graphs, they look impressive don’t they. Who starts their car and runs it at 0 degrees C. At normal operating Temperature the oils are so close it would matter whit oil you used!
Like I said, I do my own testing (and you should too) as I only trust what I find in my own car under my own driving conditions. Everything ANYBODY else says is simply useful info, nothing more. He provides useful information and I don't take it as marketing - he is having INDEPENDENT testing done on different brands of oil, just like I've done on my personal cars in the past as have countless other people. When I pick my next oil, I am going to run my own oil samples just like I do for every car and oil change.
0 degree C is 32 F - I suspect there are a lot of people who start their car in the winter. Not sure what you are saying...maybe over my head....I don't bother to read graphs...just the bottom line info.
I think you are reading way too much into this.
0 degree C is 32 F - I suspect there are a lot of people who start their car in the winter. Not sure what you are saying...maybe over my head....I don't bother to read graphs...just the bottom line info.
I think you are reading way too much into this.
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I'm saying just like every other marketer on the planet he is Cherry picking the information he wants people to see.
He may have a GT500 but ban him from commenting on Oil and I'll bet he goes away!
Eh, sounds like you have a personal issue. He's posting useful info...and oil sample results those of us interested in the best performing oil (not sufficient) have been asking for (at least me) for a loooong time. Few others are posting oil sample results and they are a useful tool for the entire community.
Can you post your Blackstone results in here too?
Can you post your Blackstone results in here too?
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A little transparency (instead of LYING) at first on his part would have been a better approach to selling Amsoil, his product!
He is Cherry picking Information to post and most of that is Useless. It was stated (not by me) on another forum at the Oil change intervals most people use on their GT500 Crisco would work fine!
Yes, I have personal Issues with Liars
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MobeyD, I've read other threads of his and have PM'd him some questions. At no time did he ever try and sell me oil. He has an opinion, as do others, and he uses Amsoil. He has suggested Royal Purple, Amsoil, and some other quality synthetic oils in his other threads but never suggested anyone buy from him or his business, nor has he offered to sell to anyone in those threads. I actually didn't know he had a business selling oil until I saw your post. And the post you provided was a screenshot from another site, not svtp. I don't understand your beef.
I think the info he's provided has been useful and I've learned from some of his posts. I do also question the viscosity of the 10/40 at 100c and am interested to see if he can explain it a little more. It looks low to me too, while higher than the used Mobil1 I don't know what's considered a wide range at that temp.
I think the info he's provided has been useful and I've learned from some of his posts. I do also question the viscosity of the 10/40 at 100c and am interested to see if he can explain it a little more. It looks low to me too, while higher than the used Mobil1 I don't know what's considered a wide range at that temp.
I don't have problem with Amsoil, its good oil so is Mobil 1 and Motorcraft.
I do have a problem with someone claiming things that are untrue/lies. He claimed in another thread he was not associated with an oil company, he also claimed there we many UOA that proved Motorcraft had a higher Aluminum and Iron wear then Amsoil and the proof was on Bobtheoilmans site. I could find on 4 posts about the GT500 (at that time) engine UOA on BTOM. And none of them had a much higher level of Aluminum or Iron wear! That's not what I would call proof of claim!
The facts are the 5.4/ 4 valve operating temperature is set at 192 degrees. That’s 11 degrees cooler then premium operating temperature for gasoline engines and they will wear more because of that. Most people who will spend the money to do a UOA will have there cars modified, that means most of those will have cooling mods. making a higher level of wear exaggerated even more. People who don’t modify their cars usually don’t get UOAs. Using ANY volunteered information posted on a website is NOT sound clinical trials. It use can only be regarded as speculation at best.
His proof comes straight from the Marketing department at Amsoil. It called Gorilla marketing, It’s web-site subversive and they want to be subtle doing it. I called him on it months ago!
BTW: I don't care if he post here or not, Just when he post anything about Motor OIL he needs to have that AMSOIL banner with Synthetic Lubricants Independent Dealer attached to the post! At least then people would have some idea of where his opinions are derived from!
Hey Beast
I would also like to know about your company, You stated on this forum and many others that you check out different oils as a hobby,
Here is a link to your companies website
Emerald Coast Oils
Also it seems you are a paid vendor on another site.
[ame=http://www.driven2modify.com/forumdisplay.php?f=101]Emerald Coast Oils - d2m - Driven2Modify.com - THE Southeastern Automotive Forums[/ame]
While I have no problem with a vendor trying to make a living, stating that you have never made a dime from an oil company with the exception of the BP cleanup could be construed by some people as a lie or as not telling the the truth if that sounds better.
Once again I myself have no problems with people trying to make a buck but it seems to me that you are trying to skirt the vendor rules. Vendors on the forums pay a fee to these sites to promote their products and that keeps these sites available to the enthusiats such as myself.
I would also like to know about your company, You stated on this forum and many others that you check out different oils as a hobby,
Here is a link to your companies website
Emerald Coast Oils
Also it seems you are a paid vendor on another site.
[ame=http://www.driven2modify.com/forumdisplay.php?f=101]Emerald Coast Oils - d2m - Driven2Modify.com - THE Southeastern Automotive Forums[/ame]
While I have no problem with a vendor trying to make a living, stating that you have never made a dime from an oil company with the exception of the BP cleanup could be construed by some people as a lie or as not telling the the truth if that sounds better.
Once again I myself have no problems with people trying to make a buck but it seems to me that you are trying to skirt the vendor rules. Vendors on the forums pay a fee to these sites to promote their products and that keeps these sites available to the enthusiats such as myself.
Yes, the first chart is based on virgin samples. The point of this thread was to focus on Motorcraft's shearing. Red Line is a top tier synthetic, it was only placed there for Virgin reference.
The 10W-40, since it would retain it's viscosity better than MC, would be a more viable choice. That's what the last chart represents. Although, if you are going to change your oil every 1,000 miles, any choice would be fine.
Hey guys, you here this. You are no longer allowed to start your car when the temperature is close to 0*C (32*F). I shall post this memo on the front page of SVTP and make it a sticky.
If a lubricant is thinner at 0*C, then it's thinner at 20*C, then it's also thinner at 40*C. That means the thinner lubricant would reach its 100*C rated temperate more rapidly, therefore reducing initial start up wear. Sorry Mobey, but your arguments hold no merits.
If you think I am cherry picking the information, go out and find printed documentation and proof that supports your arguments. Mobil 1 hasn't been able to discredit Amsoil for over 35 years, what makes you think YOU can do it?
My next comment is where YOU will go away. Sid HIMSELF, has given me the green light (that translates into meaning O.K.) to sell all Amsoil products openly on THIS forum. If you have a problem with it, take it up with Sid. Until then, good day to you sir.
I do not work for Amsoil. I'm an "independent" dealer, and do my OWN research. I fail to see any of your UOAs posting anywhere. Does everyone recall that I sent in a sample of Amsoil 20W-50 to both labs for testing? I did that to discredit MobeyDick's claim that OAI was a biased lab because it was affiliated with Amsoil. Guess what Mobey, both tests came back so close that it made no difference, except to prove you wrong.
Telling lies again Mobey? I said the newer formulations of Mobil 1 API 5W-20 SM/SN (nothing about Motorcraft) were showing higher amounts of iron ppm, and other members on BITOG were questioning it. None of which had anything to do with a GT500, we were talking about the 4.6L 3V modular. Where are you getting your information?
So, since this is my own independent testing, and Amsoil has nothing to do with it....you call this Gorilla marketing? The graphs were all done by me, using an independent online engine oil graphing calculator, neither of which are affiliated with Amsoil. I went to the site, plugged in the numbers, and the results were shown. How is this Amsoil's marketing?
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Hey Beast, I know this may be a stupid question but I just bought my 2011 GT500 and it says to use 5w-50. Should I use the 10w-40 Amsoil like what you are using or is the GT500s motors different from year to year? I am basically asking that because I have some slight changes from your model like aluminum block and what not. I would think the 10w-40 would work but I figured Id double check.
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