What's the best oil for YOUR Shelby, answers within.

UnleashedBeast

Engine Lubrication Guru
Established Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
8,771
Location
Pensacola, Florida
I research engine lubricant technology daily. We have discussed what is the proper engine lubricant to use in your Shelby GT500. I decided to use an online viscosity calculator to map out the viscosity range of 4 different lubricants that were discussed in previous posts by myself, and other members on this board.

The reason for this thread. Some have questioned my previous choice of Amsoil 20W-50 and current choice of Amsoil 10W-40. Some thought it was "too heavy" for a "20W" or "10W" winter weight, and that a 5W-50 was a much better choice to avoid cold start up wear (besides, Ford knows best, right?). Guess what, SAE grade ratings for engine lubricants are very misleading when different base stocks are being used (true synthetic versus refined petroleum).

Amsoil 20W-50, Amsoil 10W-40, and Red Line 5W-50 are true synthetic base stocks. No refined petroleum is present in the formulation. It's high in ZDDP (major anti-wear additive)

Motorcraft and Castrol 5W-50 use a highly refined petroleum base stock. Lower in ZDDP (capped at 900 ppm - compare to the UOAs of Amsoil) *See Zinc and Phosphorous ppm content in UOAs below*

Here's a brief overview of the advantages of a true synthetic base stock.

1. Higher resistant to shearing (losing it's viscosity to a lighter grade)

2. Higher resistant to base stock oxidation (yes, liquids can rust too) - this is why they say, "This lubricant is good up to X,XXX miles and/or 6 months"

3. Boutique lubricants like Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Red Line will have higher levels of ZDDP (a major anti-wear additive)

4. Higher detergent additive concentration (TBN) - in most cases, but not always. Diesel HDEO lubricants also have high detergent and ZDDP (even though they can be a group III highly refined petroleum)

5. No impurities in the base stock means uniform molecular structure. Uniform molecules produce less friction, less heat, and more efficiency.

6. Far superior cold flow performance (thickens less during temperature drop versus comparable grade refined petroleum and dino/conventional)​

Let's take a look at the chart that was calculated for me at Widman.

oilgradesbefore.jpg


Graph @ 0*C (32*F)

If you pay close attention to the chart, you will clearly see that Amsoil 20W-50 is slightly more viscous than Red Line 5W-50 at 0*C, but less viscous than Motorcraft 5W-50. You would also assume that 10W-40 "should" be thicker at 0*C (32*F) than the 5W fluids. Do you see one of the advantages of a true group IV synthetic base stock when cold flow properties are considered, and how SAE oil grade numbers on the outside of an oil container can be misleading?

cSt@100*C

Amsoil - Virgin (18.9) after 2,000 miles UOA and graph below (17.5)
Motorcraft - Virgin (21.0) 2,000 miles graph below (UOAs can be posted)(~12.89-13.5)

Now take a look at my current fill of Amsoil 10W-40. You would think that a "10W" oil would be thicker at 0*C (32*F) than a "5W". It's by far lighter, and much better for cold start up wear, than any of the other three lubricants. I say again, SAE oil grade numbers are very misleading. Amsoil 10W-40 will achieve it's at temperature rated viscosity much faster than any of the other three lubricants. Yes, this means less engine start up wear.

I made a new chart with results from UOAs after ~2,000 miles. One sample of Amsoil 20W-50 and three different samples of Motorcraft 5W-50.

oilgradesafter.jpg


You can see how Amsoil retained it's virgin viscosity far better than Motorcraft. This is a huge plus for a true group IV base stock and why they can be used for longer periods of time, while also providing better protection. True synthetic base stocks resist shearing better than refined petroleum can.

The next chart I created is to compare the three used Motorcraft samples (~2,000 miles) versus a virgin sample of Amsoil 10W-40 (after 4,124 miles....Amsoil 10W-40 retains the same viscosity specs).

oilgradescomparison.jpg


Do you see how close in viscosity they all are? Since Amsoil shears far less than Motorcraft, does everyone now see why I have chosen to use Amsoil 10W-40? Why select a lubricant that will shear when I can protect my engine better with a lubricant than will retain its virgin specs, and have all the benefits of a true synthetic base stock as listed above?

UPDATE: 3/9/2011

The UOA for Amsoil 10W-40 has returned, and everything is working out perfectly.

Amsoil10W-40UOAShelby.jpg


Sample #1 was Amsoil 20W-50 from the previous sample run
Sample #2 was Amsoil 10W-40 from the current sample run (this oil is still in the sump, only a sample was taken with a pump from the dip stick tube)

Iron, Copper, Lead and Aluminum:

the wear numbers are consistent with the previous fill of 20W-50. In fact, my car was raced more (and harder) on the fill of 10W-40 than it was on 20W-50.

Silicon:

All Ford modular GT500 engines of factory 5W-50 oil fills that were tested after draining contained 200+ ppm of silicon. This number will decrease every time the oil is changed due to most of the silicon being trapped in the suspension of the oil, and the oil filter. Silicon levels in a modular engine will not decrease from abnormal until about the 4th-5th oil change. More information on this from the next UOA.

Boron:

Why are they flagging Boron? It's native in the virgin samples of Amsoil. This time less than before. Hurpa Durp!

ZDDP:

Good levels of anti-wear additive here, and plenty to go another UOA. In fact, even higher than the last sample.

Viscosity:

This is where I am most pleased. Amsoil 10W-40 did exactly what I expected it too.....it didn't shear at all (not even 1% from the virgin spec). Amsoil spec's this lubricant in virgin samples to be 14.6, this sample measured in at 14.9. This is great news, and backs up my theories of superiority over Motorcraft, Castrol, and Mobil 5W-50. Soon, I will have a virgin sample of Amsoil 10W-40 tested to see what the virgin viscosity actually is.

TBN:

Detergent additives, still strong, and even better than the first sample. This lubricant has many more miles to go before a change in required.

Oxidation:

They flagged this as green (normal). Amsoil lubricants will have an oxidation reading around 25-30 on fresh non-used oil. 50 is still in the usable range. I will of course be keeping an eye on this area for the next sample.

Final thoughts:

Overall, this sample of Amsoil 10W-40 performed just as well as the previous fill of 20W-50. In fact, in the viscosity (shearing), ZDDP, and TBN areas, it was superior. The prior UOA report was deemed "normal". I believe this report to be mis-marked "abnormal". The silicon content is why it was marked as a level 2, and not level 1 (due to the 5.4L having high silicon content from assembly). I'm leaving this sample in the 5.4L for another 2,000 miles. We will see how well it holds up to a 4,000 mile interval.

UPDATE 6/19/2011: AMSOIL STILL MAINTAINS IT'S VIRGIN VISCOSITY AFTER 4,124 MILES!!!

10W-40ShelbyUOA2jpeg.jpg


Let's begin with a mistake I made filling out the form. I forgot to add together the total miles of the first interval plus the second, I only added up the difference from the first interval to the second. My stupid mistake. Actual miles on the second interval is 4,124, not 2,091 as I wrote on the form.

Iron:

Only 10 ppm increase in 2,000 miles shows a decline in wear from previous UOAs. A 2,000 mile interval would yield twice as much iron ppm from previous samples. I can't attribute this entirely to Amsoil, as the engine is reaching its break in point. It should naturally yield lower wear metals as the engine nears 10,000 miles. Now, I can attribute lower wear metals in the pre-break in periods of my engines life using a true synthetic versus similar UOAs viewed using other engine lubricants.

I was worried that the 170* thermostat would increase wear due to a cooler combustion chamber (the chamber could potentially expand less due to lower heat causing decreased piston ring to cylinder wall clearance. After this report, I'm not worried about it anymore.​

Aluminum, Copper, Lead, Tin:

Levels of these wear metals barely increased, Lead not at all. No strange numbers to be worried about here. I'm very satisfied with this UOA, but still more to discuss.​

Silicon:

This is why the sample is flagged as "abnormal", but still satisfactory for extended use. If you read the message to "test another 3,500 miles", you will see there is still plenty of life left in this lubricant.​

There was a 4 ppm increase from the last sample sent in for testing. This is less than I could have ever imagined. Shelby GT500 engines have silicon ppm around 200+ from the first sample of oil that is drained from a brand new engine. It's dirt/dust that was trapped inside from the assembly process. This ppm decreases every oil change as the dirt/dust is cleaned/washed away by the lubricant and relocated to the oil filter, or drained with the used oil due to silicon being trapped in suspension of the base stock. Since I have not changed my oil, continued testing on the same fill, I was shocked to see the silicon content had only increased 4 ppm. What does this mean? It means the Amsoil nano fiber air filter is doing a kick butt job at filtering the air intake. Honestly, I don't recall ever seeing a silicon ppm of any car with a 2-3,000 mile interval less than 11 ppm. No way would an oiled cotton media filter perform this well (with the exception to Air Raid's new 2010-11 GT500 filters. Their oiled filter has an extra synthetic layer to catch what the oil may miss.)​

ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorous):

API SN lubricants are capped at a maximum of 900 ppm phosphorous. This sample after 4,124 miles still has more than a virgin sample of an API SN formulation with 996 ppm. Since ZDDP is a primary anti-wear additive, this is a factor of minimizing wear. More anti-wear agents seems to equal less wear in this engine. You won't find these levels of ZDDP in any passenger car lubricant that is API SM or SN certified, and why I refuse to buy them.​

Viscosity:

This lubricant's virgin spec is 14.6 (not personally tested), was 14.9 in the previous sample, and 14.5 in this sample. The problem is I didn't ever send in a virgin sample of Amsoil 10W-40 to see what the actual virgin viscosity is. Despite knowing true virgin specs, this UOA still shows that Amsoil 10W-40 is holding its viscosity of a 40 grade. It doesn't shear to a lighter viscosity like Motorcraft or Castrol 5W-50.​

Total Base Number (detergent additives):

This determines how much active additive remains in the lubricant to "clean" the engine and combat contaminants from fuel, soot, sludge, etc. The TBN of this sample at 4,124 miles rivals some off the shelf lubricants that are still in the bottle (virgin). This is one reason why the lab want's to test the oil again in 3,500 miles, although....there is much more life left in this oil beyond 3,500 miles.​

Oxidation (base stock degradation):

This is a topic that Six Speed and myself were discussing on the previous UOA sample. It's marked "green" and considered in "beginning base stock oxidation stage", but was a bit higher than the sample of Amsoil 20W-50 previously tested. I was shocked to see the oxidation levels higher in similar formulated lubricants. The good news is, it isn't oxidizing at a rapid pace. Again, a virgin sample of Amsoil 10W-40 needs to be analyzed for comparison.​

In conclusion, I've extremely happy with the results despite the oxidation questions I have. I wish Blackstone lab would include oxidation testing in their reports so I could compare this specification to other used samples. I wanted to share this with the fellow oil followers to show how well Amsoil 10W-40 was performing in the 5.4L supercharged mill.

In the near future, I plan to send in a virgin sample of Amsoil 10W-40 to see what the virgin specs actually are. This would answer a few questions I and others have about this lubricant.

Let the questions and comments begin. I'm here to help you better protect your $50,000+ investment.

UPDATE: 9/30/2011

UOA chart updated yet again in post #1

I'm shocked at how fast the results are in. The sample was just sent off via UPS on Tuesday afternoon. WOW! Good job Polaris Labs. :thumbsup:

e879c577.jpg


Lab technicians do not think sometimes, but I can't blame them....they don't know the vehicle as well as I do, and have to test so many samples, so I decided to clarify some things.

Abrasives (silicon/dirt) are at a MODERATE LEVEL;

Really? If you would look at the three previous samples taken from this engine, you would have seen that the silicon levels are declining after every oil change. This is due to the sealants used to assemble the engine, and not dust contamination from a faulty air filter.

Infrared results indicate OXIDATION is
MODERATELY HIGH;

How can you make that assumption without a virgin sample from the same batch? This is the normal range for PAO synthetics. :dw:

Flagged additive levels are different than what should be present for the lubricant that is identified for
this unit. (This does not imply that the lubricant does not meet proper API, SAE, or ISO classifications.);

That's because you have the virgin specs for the old Amsoil 10W-30. The new signature series 10W-30 had a big change in the additive package. ZDDP was reduced, Moly and Boron were added to compensate. If they had the new specs...Moly, Boron, and Magnesium would not be flagged, as it's native to the virgin sample. Finally I have more solid proof that Moly and Boron is a great substitute for lower levels of ZDDP.

Manganese is flagged for a good reason. This is what happens when you use Torco. The more you use, the higher ppm this will be.

Now that we have that out of the way....check out how beautiful the metal wear numbers are. I'm very happy with these results, and so far are the best from any sample in the list, my previous samples included. Amsoil 10W-30 is dominating the performance in my engine, and the oil pressure in my car is slightly improved over 10W-40. I can only imagine the improvement over un-sheared 5W-50. :)

Virgin Amsoil 10W-30 viscosity is 10.5 cSt...and it remained exactly that...10.5 (zero % shearing).

TBN is still over 8, so that means this lubricant could be used for many more miles.

Retesting when the car is slightly over 12,000 miles.

Here is a detailed UOA Excel spreadsheet I have created to compare the performance of different lubricants in the Shelby 5.4L engine.

UOAchart_zpsc2cb02f7.gif

UOAchart2_zps05928232.jpg


Base green color samples are random UOAs waiting for a follow up.
Other "like" color groupings are samples taken from the same engine.
 
Last edited:

evasive

Pro 2A Attorney
Established Member
Premium Member
Party Liquor Posse
Joined
Aug 3, 2008
Messages
3,863
Location
FL
Thanks, was wondering when you would be able to send in a sample of the 10w40. Good info.
 

Carlos c

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
643
Location
TX
Perfect timing......I was going to place another Amsoil order this week but will wait for you to get the results on the 10-40. Thanks for the info!!
 

shadyninja

Been There, Wrecked That
Established Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2005
Messages
514
Location
home
wayyyyyyyy to much time on your Hands beast....
but keep up the good work.
how much cheaper is Amsoil if you buy it by the case?
 

Gojira

Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2008
Messages
480
Location
Florida
The reason for this thread. Some have questioned my previous choice of Amsoil 20W-50 and current choice of Amsoil 10W-40. Some thought it was "too heavy" for a "20W" or "10W" winter weight, and that a 5W-50 was a much better choice to avoid cold start up wear (besides, Ford knows best, right?).

They question it because they dont understand the numbers. The higher numbers in an oil rating as in this example the 40 and the 50 is in relation to the oil not gettng any thicker than that in cold weather. So of course the 40 should be thinner. The 10 and 20 ratings of a 10-40 and 20-50 is to represent that the oil wont get any thinner than "10" or "20" when the engine is hot. Too many people get the numbers backwards and this is why they think that a 10 or 20 is heavy and a 5 is lighter. LOL. I've never understood why people get the oil lables backwards. A 5-50 means it is heavier than a 10-40 when cold but will be lighter thant the 10-40 when it gets hot.

Now take a look at my current fill of Amsoil 10W-40. You would think that a "10W" oil would be thicker at 0*C (32*F) than a "5W". It's by far lighter, and much better for cold start up wear, than any of the other three lubricants. I say again, SAE oil grade numbers are very misleading. Amsoil 10W-40 will achieve it's at temperature rated viscosity much faster than any of the other three lubricants. Yes, this means less engine start up wear.

Again, why would I think the 10-40 would be thicker than the 5-50 at 0*C. At 0*C the 10 and the 5 dont mean anything. The 40 and 50 are what is important as to how thick the oil would be.

Thanks for the info. Good stuff on the shearing.
 

F8L SN8K

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Messages
1,863
Location
Indiana
^^^lol yeah why do people get these backwards.

When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.
 
Last edited:

F8L SN8K

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Messages
1,863
Location
Indiana
Some of these organizations, such as the API and ILSAC, have reduced friction modifier amounts in order to extend the life of catalytic converters and reduce pollution. These will increase wear but will be still within the "acceptable wear" range. Because of the increased wear and expense of licensing these oils some companies will not certify for API & ILSAC in order to achieve a higher level of performance. People with older engines that do not have roller cams find these oils especially attractive to maintain a reduced level of engine wear. AMSOIL only has 5 motor oils certified for the API & ILSAC for this reason (the four XL-7500 Branded motor oils and the semi-synthetic 15W-40 PCO). The rest of the nearly 30 synthetic motor oils are not certified in order to maintain the higher levels of friction modifier to maintain the enhanced level of performance necessary for their targeted market. In other words, the less expensive motor oils made by AMSOIL are API & ILSAC certified while the high end more expensive performance motor oils are not. One reason companies like AMSOIL and Mobil are at odds with the reduced friction modifier standards is they don't take into consideration the reduced volatility of PAO based motor oils which leads to much less pollution and thereby less problems for the catalytic converter. Even with the full wear preventing additives these oils do not produce the pollution of petroleum motor oils. For this reason AMSOIL has left the friction modifier levels high and skips certification for these higher performing motor oils.
 

UnleashedBeast

Engine Lubrication Guru
Established Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
8,771
Location
Pensacola, Florida
F8L SN8K is talking about NOACK Volatility, or the percentage of a lubricant's mass that is lost due to evaporation/burn off at a certain temperature in a given amount of time.

PAO based lubricants lose about 6-8%
Hydrocracked lubricants lose about 10-12%
Conventional petroleum loses 12-15%

Until the API takes NOACK into consideration, Amsoil will never have an API certified top tier lubricant (their XL and OE line are API SM/SN, ILSAC, and Dexos *5W-30 only* certified). Even though their lubricants far exceed minimum standards of API SM and SN, the amounts of phosphorous are greater than 900 ppm, therefore it would not pass due to the current catalyst emission standards. It's ridiculous! A PAO based lubricant with lower NOACK volatility and higher amounts of ZDDP would contaminate a catalyst no more than an inferior lubricant with higher NOACK volatility and lower amounts of ZDDP.

but....the API doesn't even accept the argument. It's all a money game to them.

I've also noticed that Mobil 1 doesn't provide a listed spec for NOACK volatility for any of their lubricants. It's easy to spot a group III base stock when you see NOACK is higher than 8%, therefore....the hidden specs.
 
Last edited:

UnleashedBeast

Engine Lubrication Guru
Established Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
8,771
Location
Pensacola, Florida
wayyyyyyyy to much time on your Hands beast....
but keep up the good work.
how much cheaper is Amsoil if you buy it by the case?

Retail price is 9.35 per quart - 110.60 per case (save 1.60).

Dealer Cost is 7.20 per quart - 81.90 per case (save 4.50).

Not a lot is saved in case quantities like it is when you buy their OE line. That's the lubricant that is formulated to Mobil 1 level of quality, and priced to compete. It's actually cheaper than Mobil 1.

but why pay retail? They will sell you everything at dealer cost just by becoming a member. I recommend their 1 year option.

If you are going to use a top tier lubricant, why not install the best oil filter in the world?

Retail price - 17.30
Dealer cost - 13.15 (price competitive with K&N, Mobil 1, and Royal Purple filters) <--- all three are manufactured by Champion Labs and is the same darn filter. Amsoil's filter is built by Donaldson with Military nano fiber technology.

Perfect timing......I was going to place another Amsoil order this week but will wait for you to get the results on the 10-40. Thanks for the info!!

Go ahead and get the 10W-40, you will never look back or use anything else. Don't forget to buy a new EAO11 filter to compliment the package.

what did he say...I was watching those bobies for 5mins...lol

Thought I would never get to this reply....I just couldn't stop watching her again. UGH! :-D
 
Last edited by a moderator:

vankuen

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
188
Location
USA
So you spend 20 to become a member, and you save 2.15 per quart. You basically negated the savings for the first oil change. You will save on the second oil change for the year, and third if you do a third. Though many only change their oil now 2x a year because of the newer 5k recommendations.
 

stkjock

Corn Powered 900 HP!
Established Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
5,129
Location
NY
gotta figure shipping costs in as well.


I found the 10w-40 locally at $9.95/qt.

I'm not sure if it pays for me to become a member @ $10 (6 months), order 12 qts ($86.40), shipping ~$11. Breaks down to $8.95 a quart, so I'd save $12 over the year.
 
Last edited:

UnleashedBeast

Engine Lubrication Guru
Established Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
8,771
Location
Pensacola, Florida
So you spend 20 to become a member, and you save 2.15 per quart. You basically negated the savings for the first oil change. You will save on the second oil change for the year, and third if you do a third. Though many only change their oil now 2x a year because of the newer 5k recommendations.

You shouldn't think of oil for ONLY your Shelby. I'm sure there are other vehicles in your fleet that would benefit from changing your oil only once a year. Wife's car, daily driver, work truck, motorcycle, etc. Stop using oils that require more than one change a year.

gotta figure shipping costs in as well.

Very true, no denying that. :nonono:
 

stkjock

Corn Powered 900 HP!
Established Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
5,129
Location
NY
no if I could piggy back someone's preferred membership.... that would be helpful.... wink wink....nudge....nudge.... :poke:




I kidd I kidd :beer:
 

UnleashedBeast

Engine Lubrication Guru
Established Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
8,771
Location
Pensacola, Florida
If you only have one vehicle, and you only change the oil once a year, no...the membership isn't worth it. Although, when you are talking about two or more, then you save some cash.
 

stkjock

Corn Powered 900 HP!
Established Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
5,129
Location
NY
If you only have one vehicle, and you only change the oil once a year, no...the membership isn't worth it. Although, when you are talking about two or more, then you save some cash.

yea, makes sense, however of the two other cars I have one has a maintenance plan with oil changes covered, the other calls for 10w30 dino and is driven maybe 5000 miles a year, I can get that done for $20 including filter at the local service station.
 

oldlugs

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Messages
145
Location
CA
I can't make anything of those oil charts...All I see is Shay.. :)
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top