Where does your clutch engage?

Where does your clutch engage?

  • Right off the floor

    Votes: 189 35.8%
  • Around halfway

    Votes: 218 41.3%
  • Almost all the way out

    Votes: 121 22.9%

  • Total voters
    528
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stang99

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Another trick is to go under the hood and pull on your cable sheaf where it goes into the adjuster. You can feel the play there if it is too much (old mototcycle trick). My Spec 2 is adjusted in the middle hook of the quadrant and it is really tightly adjusted. meaning no flop in the pedal at all and no play when you pull on the sheaf. I feel some resistence right away when I first push the pedal and then it gets stiffer as it actually works the clutch. It is shifting just fine and not burning the clutch up at all. If I am a little too tight on the play it is on purpose to quiet the TOB and to even the clutch fingers on the noisy/chattery Spec. But, it grips really well and I ran my second best ET ever at LACR under bad altitude density with a headwind Friday night. For the most part, you want to eliminate excessive free play. Usually if you adjust a little too tight, all you will do is prematurely wear out the TOB. If you go way too tight, your clutch will slip, which is not good. But, with your torque, one would think that you could detect clutch slip in at full throttle in 6th gear from 1500-2000 rpm very easily.
Also, I noticed that I can heat the tires really easily with the Spec as it is not slipping at all. This could be another test.
 

racerat

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Today we put the stock cable back on.
The quadrant is on the middle hook.
Adusted to were there was some slack on the pedal, but not too much. The car shifted like crap. There would be a slight delay and then it would jerk into gear. So we loosened the cable. Now the car shifts fine but the pedal is flopping around again. There is no way I can drive the car like this. I guess tomorrow I'll try a different position on the quadrant.

My 99 GT has an FMS heavy duty clutch.
Stock cable, no adjuster. There is no play in the pedal and it catches right off the floor. The car shifts like a dream and that clutch has held up for 10K miles being abused at the track with 4.10's and a Procharger.
I want the Cobra to shift like the 99. Is it possible with this tranny?
 

stang99

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When my pedal was flopping around it drove me crazy. I was about to put a spring on it to keep it tight when I changed to the Spec clutch and took all the play out of the cable. Since you have the car shifting well, you should look under the dash and see if you can't find a place to put a spring to hold the clutch pedal from flopping. I think that the stock quadrant provides this feature and when you change to the UPR there is the potential for a sloppy clutch pedal. If you do put a spring in there and it works, please let us know.
Was there anything wrong with the UPR extreme cable when you took it out?


Originally posted by racerat
Today we put the stock cable back on.
The quadrant is on the middle hook.
Adusted to were there was some slack on the pedal, but not too much. The car shifted like crap. There would be a slight delay and then it would jerk into gear. So we loosened the cable. Now the car shifts fine but the pedal is flopping around again. There is no way I can drive the car like this. I guess tomorrow I'll try a different position on the quadrant.

My 99 GT has an FMS heavy duty clutch.
Stock cable, no adjuster. There is no play in the pedal and it catches right off the floor. The car shifts like a dream and that clutch has held up for 10K miles being abused at the track with 4.10's and a Procharger.
I want the Cobra to shift like the 99. Is it possible with this tranny?
 

Snake Eyes

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Ok here (link) is the solution for the sloppy pedal. The MM Adjuster will allow you to adjust the engagement point and pedal height separately! That means that you can adjust the cable so there is no slack (the clutch will engage right at the top of the travel) and the pedal can be any distance from you, that you want. If you don't understand I can try to explain but trust me this is the solution.

I have Steeda's quick release quadrant, firewall adjuster and the MM adjuster and my clutch engages faster than stock (quad), and right as I start to push the pedal (firewall adj) and to top it all off it is level with my break pedal (MM adj)! It is exactly where I wanted it and I would recommend this setup to any one, but if you already have the UPR pieces then add this adjuster to the mix and you will be amazed.

Good luck,

Kyle
 

ntechnic

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Thanks Snake Eyes. I've been planning on the quadrant mod, had it in my '95 GT along with firewall adjuster and loved the positive feel. But I like the MM solution to separate height and engagement points.

Great tip.
 

Snake Eyes

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Just remember that you must have an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster in order to use the MM pedal adjuster. I highly recommend the Steeda quick release quad over their double hook. It really quickens up the engagement, it's like a short throw shifter for your feet!

:beer:

Kyle
 

racerat

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Originally posted by Snake Eyes
Just remember that you must have an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster in order to use the MM pedal adjuster. I highly recommend the Steeda quick release quad over their double hook. It really quickens up the engagement, it's like a short throw shifter for your feet!

:beer:

Kyle
Kyle,
Thanks for the info on the MM piece. I am looking into it...sounds like a good solution.
One questions...what's the difference between the Steeda quadrant and the UPR Extreme quadrant?
 

Snake Eyes

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Steeda makes two different quadrants. The double hook (link) which is similar to the UPR triple hook, and the quick release (link) which has a different shape that will allow the clutch to go from fully engaged to fully disengaged with less pedal travel. Basically with the setup I described above my clutch pedal movement is about two thirds what it was with the stock quad, essentially making your leg faster full out to full in. When I first did it I could not believe how much better it was, then I thought why is this not on the mandatory mods list like a short throw shifter? I explain it in greater depth here (link) if you want to know more. Hope this clears it up a bit, any more questions just ask. Good luck.
 
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Bingo13

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Stock cable, stock adjuster, engages a third of the way off the floor just like an Accord. :D
 

ntechnic

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Snake Eyes, thanks for the info. Just order the combo kit from Steeda (quick release quadrant & firewall adjuster). The quik release sounds like just what I want.
 

Snake Eyes

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NP glad I could help. You'll love it. People with a stock quad or even a aftermarket double/triple hook don't know what their missing.
 

Dana

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Yes, the RED one from Steeda is the one you want. It will increase the pedal effort a little, but greatly reduce the amount of pedal travel required for complete release.

Dana
 

bender460

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yes dana is right about the red one. Also I sit so far up I acually adjusted ( or custom fabed a bracket) to lower the clutch pedal. Now it is level with the brake pedal, really helps with the knees.
 
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10thVert

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My 10th Anniversary originally had problems with engagement right off the floor. Made making quick shifts impossible. Now that the car has 2300 miles on it it is right in the middle. I also had my carpet come loose at the top in the drivers footwell and fold over at the top. This also contributed to the problem. With the carpet reattached to the floor using some silicone and 2300 miles on the odo mine is now much closer to the middle. I bought a UPR clutch adjuster and quadrant and never installed it .
 

BuffDigits

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I have all the adjustable stuff and my engagement is near the top. Which I actually like, I can shift a lot faster by only tapping the clutch and not have to push it all the way to the floor to engage it. (thats of course if your not power shifting). Makes it a pain in stop and go traffic though.
 

I-CAN-STANG

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Almost all the way out! If it's engaging on the floor then it's getting close to that time! :pepper:
 

330racing

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I-CAN-STANG: I think you have it backwards? All the way out would indicate less disk material, no?
 
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