Whipple + Torsen = No 1/4 Mile Fun?

[StangLoveR]

Trying to figure out if I'm going to regret a decision I'm working on here, especially given a few threads I've seen here recently involving grenaded rear ends and torsen diffs.

My car's whipple'd and should be just at 600 rwhp. I put a torsen in it as all it really sees is the road course, but I'd love to go to the drag strip every once in a while just for fun, and also click off some solid 1/4 mile times while I'm at it.

So, my question then is, will that amount of instant power running a torsen and say 275/60/15 M/T E.T. Streets be asking for it?

Ah, the axle tubes are welded, if that helps.

 

[Mr. Anderson]

it'll be a crap shoot. welded axles are good and will prevent twisting a tube, it won't do shit for the diff. The torsen diff is not recommended for the drag strip especially with et streets. if you do take it to the drag strip I would not recommend high RPM clutch launches. Why it works so well for the road racing track is exactly the opposite of what you want at the 1/4 mile track.

 

[slagburn]

That sounds like it could be trouble, I would recommend putting a slick on the car to let the sidewall take the shock load. Start at 18ish psi and work your way down, too low a psi and a nasty dead hook could still hurt the diff.

 

[me32]

If you have the same one that comes of the 13-14 PP gt500s you should be ok. If you went with the weaker version then like stated its a crap shoot.

 

[SignalZero]

If possible, find a set of soft slicks. They will help absorb the jolt from the launch. No 4000 side steps and you should be fine

 

[poof100]

Trying to figure out if I'm going to regret a decision I'm working on here, especially given a few threads I've seen here recently involving grenaded rear ends and torsen diffs.

My car's whipple'd and should be just at 600 rwhp. I put a torsen in it as all it really sees is the road course, but I'd love to go to the drag strip every once in a while just for fun, and also click off some solid 1/4 mile times while I'm at it.

So, my question then is, will that amount of instant power running a torsen and say 275/60/15 M/T E.T. Streets be asking for it?

Ah, the axle tubes are welded, if that helps.

I'd put a set of Stiffwall slicks on if it's a manual car and don't go too crazy with the launch rpm.

The boss 302 Torsen is the same one that is in the 13/14 GT500 and as you can see from my thread, it grenaded.

 

[JohnRichard]

I drag race mine all the time, I don't make as much power as you do... I have had a few issues... broke a couple teeth off of a ring gear on a set of Motive 3:90's , broke a couple teeth off of a stock ring gear 3.73's as well... maybe its the 5200 rpm launches... Not for sure, but that Torsen... it can handle it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xt56p3dMlJA

 

[StangLoveR]

Thanks for the replies, all. So, maybe if I went for just some drag radials, like NT05R's, it'd be a bit safer, eh? I could keep my 18x9.5 shelbys and put say a 285/40/18 tire - ugh that'd still be a mess (no traction) at the track I'm sure.

I'll note that I did go last weekend on my 285 width Hankook R-S3's (great street tires) and it was borderline dangerous taking the car down the 1/4. Could just find some decent middle ground (d/r's) and leave it at that I guess.

Decisions, decisions.

 

[slagburn]

Drag radials are much harder on parts than slicks.

 

[StangLoveR]

Drag radials are much harder on parts than slicks.

Wow, I guess I need to think more about this. It's with slicks that you can cut crazy 60' times, whereas with drag radials, your 60' will be much slower, right?

Which translates to more wheel spin with the drag radials. So what am I missing here? I shouldn't waste y'alls time on this as I can google it when I have time.

I know above it was said by some that slicks are safer, which I presume is because the soft sidewall gives and absorbs the shock, so that difference is understood - yet despite absorbing the shock, it still yields a better 60' because it in the end is much stickier, right?

Bah, I'm in a hurry so I hope at least some of what I just rambled about makes sense.

 

[Eric@jpc]

Wow, I guess I need to think more about this. It's with slicks that you can cut crazy 60' times, whereas with drag radials, your 60' will be much slower, right?

Which translates to more wheel spin with the drag radials. So what am I missing here? I shouldn't waste y'alls time on this as I can google it when I have time.

I know above it was said by some that slicks are safer, which I presume is because the soft sidewall gives and absorbs the shock, so that difference is understood - yet despite absorbing the shock, it still yields a better 60' because it in the end is much stickier, right?

Bah, I'm in a hurry so I hope at least some of what I just rambled about makes sense.

Drag Radials will have a harder hit to them. Not to mention if it spins radials are more likely to wheel hop which really tears stuff up.