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Whiteline KDT928 MT82 Transmission Bushing Insert Tested. Reviews/Tips & Tricks
- Thread starter NickSezz
- Start date
I agree a little vibration but everything feels stiff now. Smooth shifts. I have Steeda Shifter / bushing, whiteline insert and JHR stainless clutch line....:rockon::beer:
I just got this installed along with a Barton 2 post bracket (coming from the 1 post) 2nd to 3rd shift is no longer a guessing game if its gonna engadge or block me out. Super smooth. I do get a noticable about of NVH from 1.7k-3k rpm. I DD this car and forgot about the increased NVH in a day or so...never though the stock mt82 and clutch would hold this hp level im at and shift so easy.
A buddy on our local forum figured out what may potentially be the problem to the increased NVH in the floor after installing.
It seems that the bushing, when inserted all the way into the trans crossmember, may actually contact the crossmember on the back side, causing vibrations to resonate through the floor. He trimmed (what appeared to be in the picture) the middle section of the bushing and that fixed the floor vibrations.
It seems that the bushing, when inserted all the way into the trans crossmember, may actually contact the crossmember on the back side, causing vibrations to resonate through the floor. He trimmed (what appeared to be in the picture) the middle section of the bushing and that fixed the floor vibrations.
46Tbird said:
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Egh. I posted on the other thread in the Boss 302 forum and that one is dead...
I just had an unmodified one installed. I have been running a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter and rear shifter bracket and bushing before getting this installed. With the Whiteline installed I get the vibration through the floorpan, but I get an even heavier one @ 2000rpm. It makes the entire shifter shake. Dosen't matter if I am going slow in a parking lot or flooring it on the on ramp to the freeway it's there.
Because I am running an aftermarket shifter, I am not sure which one of your posted options to do... In everyone's opinion, should I cut the hole, or just hack off the end completely? I have to go to a shop to get this done because I don't even have a driveway to do this own my own so I am hoping to do this just once.
Has anyone else tried just the 3/8" trim dirty88 posted above where it contacts the crossmember?
I just had an unmodified one installed. I have been running a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter and rear shifter bracket and bushing before getting this installed. With the Whiteline installed I get the vibration through the floorpan, but I get an even heavier one @ 2000rpm. It makes the entire shifter shake. Dosen't matter if I am going slow in a parking lot or flooring it on the on ramp to the freeway it's there.
Because I am running an aftermarket shifter, I am not sure which one of your posted options to do... In everyone's opinion, should I cut the hole, or just hack off the end completely? I have to go to a shop to get this done because I don't even have a driveway to do this own my own so I am hoping to do this just once.
Has anyone else tried just the 3/8" trim dirty88 posted above where it contacts the crossmember?
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Cutting part of it off will probably only solve part of your vibration issue. If you only want to do it once and rid all vibration, lose the entire bottom piece.
Thanks for the reply. I haven't read this entire thread but with others drilling holes or hacking the lower piece off with no difference in how it performs... what purpose does the lower piece serve in the first place? :??:
Some people seem to like the rigid feel that the center piece gives you. It definitely helps stiffen up the trans bushing more, but I think most of the issue is solved by preventing the top corners form collapsing.
If Whiteline chose to leave this part out I am sure there would have been people complaining about that too. Better have more than less from the start in this case.
Nick, it's not necessary to trim off the entire bottom section of the mount. I trimmed the bottom section to be the exact same length as the "wings" and I get no vibration at all.
Yeah I remember reading that post. The problem is some people claim to have no vibrations with no modification at all to the insert...
Going by the inconsistent results of this bushing and given that he only wants to do this once, the sure way is to hack the whole thing. If he only cuts part off there is a chance he might have to go in again.
I would like to try trimming the bushing like you did and also adding the hole. I think that would be the best of both worlds.
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The issue I have seen that is causing the vibrations is the fact the larger middler section is in fact longer that the other two. Because it's longer, it protrudes past the actual bushing, making contact with the edge of the trans cross member, whereas the other are flush with the edge of the bushing. That contact with the cross member has been seen by myself as well as the original person that came up with the trimming idea. It doesn't contact by much, and that contact can vary from car to car simply because of the tolerances in the thickness of the cast cross member, and also the tolerance in the position of the cross member bushing towards the front of the car.
In all honestly, I would really recommend that every person who buys this bushing insert do as stated below.
1) Install the Whiteline bushing as you received it. Don't do ANY trimming. If you notice increased NVH, proceed to Step 2.
2) Uninstall the Whiteline bushing and trim the center section flush with the outer sections (approx. 3/8").
3) Reinstall the Whiteline bushing. If you still notice increased NVH, proceed to Step 4.
4) Uninstall the Whiteline bushing and trim the center section an additional 1".
5) Reinstall the Whiteline bushing. If you still notice increased NVH, proceed to Step 6.
6) Repeat Step 4 and Step 5 until all NVH is gone, or you are satisfied with the level of NVH (if any). You may also trim the bushing in smaller incremements after Step 3.
Just want to bump this thread to let you guys know that stocks have been replenished and should be available from us as well as other vendors as needed.
We will offer these in stock form as well as modified versions.
We can chop off the entire middle section to eliminate any Possible NVH increase.
We can also trim the tip off the middle section as well as cut the 1.5" hole in the middle to reduce as much NVH as Possible while maintaining most of the center piece.
To order a modified bushing give us a call or email me at [email protected]
2011-2014 Mustang Transmission Bushing Insert - JDM Engineering
We will offer these in stock form as well as modified versions.
We can chop off the entire middle section to eliminate any Possible NVH increase.
We can also trim the tip off the middle section as well as cut the 1.5" hole in the middle to reduce as much NVH as Possible while maintaining most of the center piece.
To order a modified bushing give us a call or email me at [email protected]
2011-2014 Mustang Transmission Bushing Insert - JDM Engineering
I just installed this with a bunch of other suspension components (including: coil overs, UCA, LCA, cf d/s) to my car and I have not noticed ANY added NVH over stock. None at all like a few of you guys are describing. Only driveline mod prior to install was the MGW & amsoil tranny fluid.
So, no added NVH and I didn't cut or modify the bushing. Shifts feel more crisp and precise now. Adds confidence. All I did was grease the bushing before insertion.
So, no added NVH and I didn't cut or modify the bushing. Shifts feel more crisp and precise now. Adds confidence. All I did was grease the bushing before insertion.
Mine is installed but there is noticable NVH. What is the best way to trim the center section?
hack saw or a band saw. try trimming it so all three legs are the same length. If that doesn't work, keep trimming it a little at a time until the NVH is gone.
Definitely good info in here. Subbing for progression.
Thank! I'll give it try this weekend and see how things improve.
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