Port them. You will go ts eventionally. It will be a great investment for down the road.
Built Motor!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter ported 04
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Tosley Ford - they have a forum in the market section and the best prices on Ford parts.
Some still use a head cooling mod with 05 heads, cheap insurance.
Some still use a head cooling mod with 05 heads, cheap insurance.
Ok I read this whole thread for some reason and have the following comments to add.....
Porting has nothing to do with the over heating in the back of the driver side bank. That has to do with coolant passages and lack of flow. Porting doesn't have anything to do with coolant passages.
It's been my experience with 4 cammers that head porting is not worth the investment unless you've expended every last option for power output and are looking for every last available bit of power in your combination.
As I've stated a million times in the past, cams are not all about peak RWHP. The right cam in the right set up allows the engine to take advantage of a better power curve and make more power under that curve. You may only see 15 or 20 RWHP at the peak point, but looking at the entire curve you could see large increases over the length of the engines power curve. More power over a longer period of time due to more efficient function.
One recommendation I would offer to anyone that is removing the heads from a Ford mod motor is a good set of quality valve springs. Cam or no cam, port or no port, I highly recommend replacing the stockers (as specially if the engine has some mileage on it). By throwing in a good set of springs you'll decrease the possibility of floating a valve and increase the ability to stretch out low gear shifts.
Diamond pistons are outstanding quality pistons, but there is nothing wrong with JE either. I've use both and both performed very well.
Porting has nothing to do with the over heating in the back of the driver side bank. That has to do with coolant passages and lack of flow. Porting doesn't have anything to do with coolant passages.
It's been my experience with 4 cammers that head porting is not worth the investment unless you've expended every last option for power output and are looking for every last available bit of power in your combination.
As I've stated a million times in the past, cams are not all about peak RWHP. The right cam in the right set up allows the engine to take advantage of a better power curve and make more power under that curve. You may only see 15 or 20 RWHP at the peak point, but looking at the entire curve you could see large increases over the length of the engines power curve. More power over a longer period of time due to more efficient function.
One recommendation I would offer to anyone that is removing the heads from a Ford mod motor is a good set of quality valve springs. Cam or no cam, port or no port, I highly recommend replacing the stockers (as specially if the engine has some mileage on it). By throwing in a good set of springs you'll decrease the possibility of floating a valve and increase the ability to stretch out low gear shifts.
Diamond pistons are outstanding quality pistons, but there is nothing wrong with JE either. I've use both and both performed very well.
^Thanks!
They are pulling the motor tomorrow!!! They said most of the parts are there so they are going to start pulling it tomorrow!!! Can't wait to drive it!
GOOD STUFF RIGHT THERE!!:beer::thumbsup:
A nice fresh valve job, check the guides for looseness and new springs are an excellent idea on a car with some miles.
I went to HP today and found out they haven't even started yet. They are really busy so it's going to take a while. They do have all of the parts though!
I talked to them yesterday and it's a rod bearing....The motor is at the machine shop right now getting bored .020 over. They said it will be done this week or next week! Can't wait to get her back!
As usual, great minds think alike!:beer::rockon:
Ported, I'm glad you finally got the final answer. Good luck with the new combo and whatever you do, don't cut corners. You'll regret it later. Good pistons deserve a good set of fit rings. Good bearings and rings deserve a good break in, etc.....
Finally, a well built engine deserves allot of boost!! :rockon:
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haha...Yeah my son wants me to keep it until he turns 18. Then he wants to have the car and put a whipple on it.
And thanks
And thanks
and i'll have them break it in. I hope they don't do the dyno run right after they install all of it.
They said they are going to do a dyno run without breaking it in...Is this a bad idea?
Umm I'd break it in first w/ a base tune. But theirs mixed opinions on break in's and what not.
alright
Yeah, I didn't want to elaborate because I didn't want to provoke the "other side" to come in and turn your thread into a dick measuring contest. There's plenty of info out there on both sides of the fence so I won't go too deep into it. Here's what I'll say on the topic though.
I'm not a pro engine builder and I'm not part of a top fuel crew, but I have built quite a few engines in my life time. I've built or been involved with building, everything from 9 second drag dedicated 502 Chevys to daily driven Jeep 4.0's. In that time I've learned allot about the physics behind engine function and have learned quite a few lessons the hard way.
One of the lessons that I've learned "the hard way" is that for the first few thousand miles that you put on a brand new engine, the moving parts go through heat cycles expanding and contracting before everything fully "seats." During that time they also release debris into the oil which if not removed prior to hard use, could cause marring in the bearing surfaces and cylinder walls.
There's also the theory of ring seating and everyone has their own opinion of when that actually happens. My main concern with engine break in is bearing life. Most rod and main bearings are designed with a "break in" material that helps save the bearings actual surface from marring during the above mentioned period. However, that break in surface can be worn away prematurely by overheating and over revving, leaving the bearing surface vulnerable to marring and scratching. When all is said and done logic says that staying out of the throttle for a few thousand miles is a small price to pay to help ensure your investment has the best possible chance to survive a nice long life.
My break in procedure: Start off with regular non synthetic oil and run the engine (at idle for an OHC engine, or at 2k-2500 RPM for a push rod engine) for 30 minutes. Shut it down and change your oil right then and there using non synthetic oil and a descent quality filter. Drive the car for 500 miles keeping the tac under 3000 RPM, then change the oil and filter again with conventional oil. Run that for another 1500 miles or so maintaining a 3500 RPM limit and change the oil to whatever your gonna usually run (I prefer Mobil 1). Run that for another 1500 miles then change just the filter and add a court. Run that until your 3k mile mark and then start your regular oil change intervals.
With that method you ensure that you remove all the debris from the oil and oil passages and should be more than ready to "test" your new beasts abilities ;-)
I'm not a pro engine builder and I'm not part of a top fuel crew, but I have built quite a few engines in my life time. I've built or been involved with building, everything from 9 second drag dedicated 502 Chevys to daily driven Jeep 4.0's. In that time I've learned allot about the physics behind engine function and have learned quite a few lessons the hard way.
One of the lessons that I've learned "the hard way" is that for the first few thousand miles that you put on a brand new engine, the moving parts go through heat cycles expanding and contracting before everything fully "seats." During that time they also release debris into the oil which if not removed prior to hard use, could cause marring in the bearing surfaces and cylinder walls.
There's also the theory of ring seating and everyone has their own opinion of when that actually happens. My main concern with engine break in is bearing life. Most rod and main bearings are designed with a "break in" material that helps save the bearings actual surface from marring during the above mentioned period. However, that break in surface can be worn away prematurely by overheating and over revving, leaving the bearing surface vulnerable to marring and scratching. When all is said and done logic says that staying out of the throttle for a few thousand miles is a small price to pay to help ensure your investment has the best possible chance to survive a nice long life.
My break in procedure: Start off with regular non synthetic oil and run the engine (at idle for an OHC engine, or at 2k-2500 RPM for a push rod engine) for 30 minutes. Shut it down and change your oil right then and there using non synthetic oil and a descent quality filter. Drive the car for 500 miles keeping the tac under 3000 RPM, then change the oil and filter again with conventional oil. Run that for another 1500 miles or so maintaining a 3500 RPM limit and change the oil to whatever your gonna usually run (I prefer Mobil 1). Run that for another 1500 miles then change just the filter and add a court. Run that until your 3k mile mark and then start your regular oil change intervals.
With that method you ensure that you remove all the debris from the oil and oil passages and should be more than ready to "test" your new beasts abilities ;-)
i would go ahead and replace the tensioners and chains if there going to check them tensioners and chains run about 200 bucks.....better safe then sorry.
I'll have to ask the guys at Houston Performance what they think would be best for the car and i'll tell them what you said.
gawd it would take me a year to break in my car!!!
Exactly what i was thinking!
Went to HP today and they are expecting the shortblock to come in today..I finallly snapped some quick pics. I'm also having them install this clutch!
RAM 99-04 Cobra Powergrip HDT Clutch Kit (26-Spline) [98951HDT] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs
Anyone else have this clutch???
RAM 99-04 Cobra Powergrip HDT Clutch Kit (26-Spline) [98951HDT] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs
Anyone else have this clutch???
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