TR6 Plug Issue

Status
Not open for further replies.

boost4me

Banned
Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
558
Location
Palm City, FL
I ordered the TR6 V-Power plugs NGK Part #4177 - I was just scheduling time with my tuner for next week and mentioned that I was going to use this plug. He said don't even bother and specifically mentioned all the problems on this thread. He said get the Iridium's but he didn't have the part number in front of him. Is this the correct one?

NGK Part # 3689 {#TR6IX} Iridium

TR7IX would be even cooler right?
 
Last edited:

fastlane65

Starting lots of projects
Established Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2007
Messages
1,442
Location
Shreveport, Louisiana
Are the "disc like" looking gappers ok to use?

The ones with the outer ring that gets taller and taller with no definite step between gaps, or the little round lawnmower tool with the wire loops of varying width? Both are excellent for the single plug on your weedeater.

I just feel more comfortable with a feeler gauge. Probably even a tutorial on Youtube on how to gap plugs.
 

blwn03sonic

venomous motorsports
Established Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2005
Messages
1,529
Location
norcal
I'm running tr6's. I'm getting rough idle and slight miss. I might try the tr7ix
 

ChrisMustang

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2010
Messages
361
Location
Volo, IL
I just put in TR6ix, my idle is a bit rough but other then that the car runs strong...could it be the plugs causing the idle issue? The plugs came gaped at .034 and I left them like that.
 

MYSTCHRM

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2004
Messages
243
Location
Rhode Island
Would like to toss in my experience with these plugs.

I put them in at 50,000 miles. No idle, blow out, or hesitation issues. Mods were exhaust and K&N. At 100,000 miles, I added a pulley and a tune. Now at 134,000+ miles, I've read all the posts in this thread and am about to replace my TR6's with the same plug. Only difference is that I'm changing the gap from .050 to .032. Doing this because I want to see if there is any difference than what I've been living with for the last 84,000 miles.

Again, no issues at all for 84,000 miles on these plugs putting down 485/505 for the last 34,000 miles. Figured I should change them before I have an issue.

Here's a photo that compares the plugs. I do agree, each car has its own variences and the same plugs may not have the same results. For me, these plugs have worked great.

ngk.jpg
 

MYSTCHRM

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2004
Messages
243
Location
Rhode Island
Changed the plugs today now gapped at .032. What a difference. I have no idea what I had them gapped at before, but they all seem to be gapped over .040. I guess I was also prone to the spark blow out at WOT. I thought I had a coil pack that wasn't working properly, but after changing the plugs, the skip at WOT is gone.

Thanks to all those who contributed to this thread. It was your input that made me decide to address my plugs.
 

boost4me

Banned
Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
558
Location
Palm City, FL
So check it on a dyno when you get a chance. I couldn't tell at all while driving but on the dyno I was still getting spark blowout at .032. We lowered to .028 and it smoothed out the graph. When doing so we also noticed it went a tad rich and we leaned it out and picked up 7 RWHP
 

MysticRob

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2011
Messages
1,339
Location
Sunnyvale, CA
Hey all. Bit of a thread dig up here, but it's a big thread and I figure I can add this question to it.

My 04 has 78k miles on it and is completely stock except for a K&N CAI installed today. The SVT owner's manual supplement calls for the AGSF-22FM1 plug but I'm wondering if I can run the TR6 plugs at the stock gap till I have AED do a 2.81" pulley swap and tune on it.

They've recommend the TR6 (4177) @ .032-.035 with those mods, so I figure I might as well change the plugs now for the TR6s with the stock gap, then just regap them once I get the new pulley and tune done.

Problem is it's a bear trying to find reliable info on heat ranges, plug material, etc. And one manufacturer's heat range doesn't necessarily equate to another manufacturer's heat range, so not sure what I can do besides continue to run what I'm assuming are the stock plugs (will verify tomorrow though) until I get the pulley and tune, when I'll switch to the TR6s. Any ideas or recommendations?
 
Last edited:

Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Messages
16,092
Location
MN
Hey all. Bit of a thread dig up here, but it's a big thread and I figure I can add this question to it.

My 04 has 78k miles on it and is completely stock except for a K&N CAI installed today. The SVT owner's manual supplement calls for the AGSF-22FM1 plug but I'm wondering if I can run the TR6 plugs at the stock gap till I have AED do a 2.81" pulley swap and tune on it.

They've recommend the TR6 (4177) @ .032-.035 with those mods, so I figure I might as well change the plugs now for the TR6s with the stock gap, then just regap them once I get the new pulley and tune done.

Problem is it's a bear trying to find reliable info on heat ranges, plug material, etc. And one manufacturer's heat range doesn't necessarily equate to another manufacturer's heat range, so not sure what I can do besides continue to run what I'm assuming are the stock plugs (will verify tomorrow though) until I get the pulley and tune, when I'll switch to the TR6s. Any ideas or recommendations?

I believe there has been guys running the tr6 on stock boost, there inexpensive plugs so you can see how the car feels with them in. I also think the ngk stock heat range plugs would be the TR5. I posted in this thread about running the tr6ix iridium plugs, but went back to the tr6 copper.
 

boost4me

Banned
Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
558
Location
Palm City, FL
So when you end up doing your pulley you want to run the TR6 Iridiums, gapped at most to .032 and check spark on the dyno, if its squigly and breaking up at the high end your loosing spark and need to close the gap down. .028 is working absolutely flawless for me.

I'm not sure how running the cooler iridium plug will react with less boost, air, fuel. The hotter copper plugs are so cheap though you might as well just run those until you do your pulley.
 

Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Messages
16,092
Location
MN
So when you end up doing your pulley you want to run the TR6 Iridiums, gapped at most to .032 and check spark on the dyno, if its squigly and breaking up at the high end your loosing spark and need to close the gap down. .028 is working absolutely flawless for me.

I'm not sure how running the cooler iridium plug will react with less boost, air, fuel. The hotter copper plugs are so cheap though you might as well just run those until you do your pulley.

I think he's asking specifically about the tr6, not the tr6ix's. It's best to start with the tr6 I think while dynoing, then switching to the more expensive ones after the desired gap is found. I went back to the tr6, just because I'm a little nervous about the porcelain being so strong that if there was any detonation it could burn a tiny hole in the piston! Whereas the copper will just break off and burn up.
 

boost4me

Banned
Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
558
Location
Palm City, FL
Just don't let it detonate. If your tune is good you shouldn't be anywhere close to detonating, plus there is some safety built into the computer. As soon as your Intake temps go above 150 the computer starts pulling timing, and the higher it goes the more timing it pulls. The dual pass heat exchanger allows me to run a little extra timing also and stay in the safe zone by helping to keep those intake temps down.
 

Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Messages
16,092
Location
MN
Just don't let it detonate. If your tune is good you shouldn't be anywhere close to detonating, plus there is some safety built into the computer. As soon as your Intake temps go above 150 the computer starts pulling timing, and the higher it goes the more timing it pulls. The dual pass heat exchanger allows me to run a little extra timing also and stay in the safe zone by helping to keep those intake temps down.

Easier said than done! Anything from some bad fuel, dirty or bad injector, bad fuel pump,ect. Any of this can cause a lean condition and create problems. Heck even a bad alternator will cause problems. The ecu won't save your motor on everything. Lol a aftermarket heat exchanger hasn't proven anything! My charge temps are the same from when I had the oem one, until now the current Gords. Best cooling mod which made a difference was Rieche's 170 degree t-stat.
 
Last edited:

sprstr1000

WHIPPLECHARGED
Established Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
947
Location
langley bc
I ran the brisk plugs in my R1 and had the tip break off on me. Bike had a tick after that, never again, overpriced!!!

Anyone have any experience with the E3s?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread



Top