Are the "disc like" looking gappers ok to use?
That's what I used
Are the "disc like" looking gappers ok to use?
TR7-IX here and they feel good.
Are the "disc like" looking gappers ok to use?
Hey all. Bit of a thread dig up here, but it's a big thread and I figure I can add this question to it.
My 04 has 78k miles on it and is completely stock except for a K&N CAI installed today. The SVT owner's manual supplement calls for the AGSF-22FM1 plug but I'm wondering if I can run the TR6 plugs at the stock gap till I have AED do a 2.81" pulley swap and tune on it.
They've recommend the TR6 (4177) @ .032-.035 with those mods, so I figure I might as well change the plugs now for the TR6s with the stock gap, then just regap them once I get the new pulley and tune done.
Problem is it's a bear trying to find reliable info on heat ranges, plug material, etc. And one manufacturer's heat range doesn't necessarily equate to another manufacturer's heat range, so not sure what I can do besides continue to run what I'm assuming are the stock plugs (will verify tomorrow though) until I get the pulley and tune, when I'll switch to the TR6s. Any ideas or recommendations?
So when you end up doing your pulley you want to run the TR6 Iridiums, gapped at most to .032 and check spark on the dyno, if its squigly and breaking up at the high end your loosing spark and need to close the gap down. .028 is working absolutely flawless for me.
I'm not sure how running the cooler iridium plug will react with less boost, air, fuel. The hotter copper plugs are so cheap though you might as well just run those until you do your pulley.
Just don't let it detonate. If your tune is good you shouldn't be anywhere close to detonating, plus there is some safety built into the computer. As soon as your Intake temps go above 150 the computer starts pulling timing, and the higher it goes the more timing it pulls. The dual pass heat exchanger allows me to run a little extra timing also and stay in the safe zone by helping to keep those intake temps down.