This thread has definitely changed the plans for my car, I have a JLT 127, FRPP twin 65 and a canned Lund tune currently, I had planned an ATI 10% lower along w/ headers but I think i'll just get the headers and a solid dyno tune and call it good.
On my way to Wanna GO Fast...
- Thread starter BOSSPOWER
- Start date
They know when it blows u have to buy pretty much everything from Ford again LMAO!
"$600 to put nice rods into the 5.8 or $20,000+ when the customer bolts on mods and everystuff goes kaboom, Hmmm...."
Day one I saw the rods in the 5.8 I was never impressed, they took the cheap way out for sure.
Last edited:
Spoken to some buddies about this very topic: how do you guys feel about some preventative mods such as rod and piston upgrades as opposed to a full blown built motor? I'm happy with my power level (which is identical to Manuel's) so I don't feel much more than rods and pistons would be necessary (probably oil pump gears too). Any opinions? Seems the stock rods are for sure a weak point.
Hi brother,
Your best bet is to get some Manley rods and pistons, but were it gets expensive is in all the extras...key chain gears, ARP hardware, oil pump gears (I have these on the car from MMR), better chain, cams, valves, springs, TI retainers, etc, etc...and if the block blows tact on $5k+++ more. If I would of know, I would of stopped at the 700's and change, and even then there is some risk. As Tim told me today, they don't give any signs of going bad, they just go. I truly believe Ford f^*+#< us, we'll let me rephrase for those of us that are not happy with 600 to the wheels.
Hope this helps, and please be careful, I don't want to see you in my shoes.
Manuel
It's unfortunate they went with cheap rods, the 5.8 could have been a real bullet proof engine. I truly think these engines can handle 750whp comfortable for years.
Manuel,
Your car was awesome and many on here, including myself, enjoyed reading your posts. However, I disagree with your sentiments of animosity against Ford for using powdered metal rods. It's common knowledge that the rods are the weak link in the short-block assembly and your power output of over 820rwhp vastly exceeded the levels that are commonly known as being safe. How much over-capacity should Ford be expected to build into the short-block on a sub 70k performance car? 25%, 50%, or 75% even? Your Trinity was making 1000 crank horsepower worth of power before parasitic losses (supercharger). Some of the mod money you invested could have gone to having the short-block pulled and swapping to higher quality drop-forged rods. You chose to invest in power increases and push the engine's limits and unfortunately it didn't end well. You have to pay to play and the limitations of the rods are well known on this forum .
These cars aren't invincible, each part has its failure point. Yes, it sucks that you had to write a check for a short block but look on the brightside, you had a hell of a good time in all those miles you were running all that power. I'm sure you had more kill stories than you even had time to tell. Good luck getting it back to stock to sell and with your future endeavors.
Your car was awesome and many on here, including myself, enjoyed reading your posts. However, I disagree with your sentiments of animosity against Ford for using powdered metal rods. It's common knowledge that the rods are the weak link in the short-block assembly and your power output of over 820rwhp vastly exceeded the levels that are commonly known as being safe. How much over-capacity should Ford be expected to build into the short-block on a sub 70k performance car? 25%, 50%, or 75% even? Your Trinity was making 1000 crank horsepower worth of power before parasitic losses (supercharger). Some of the mod money you invested could have gone to having the short-block pulled and swapping to higher quality drop-forged rods. You chose to invest in power increases and push the engine's limits and unfortunately it didn't end well. You have to pay to play and the limitations of the rods are well known on this forum .
These cars aren't invincible, each part has its failure point. Yes, it sucks that you had to write a check for a short block but look on the brightside, you had a hell of a good time in all those miles you were running all that power. I'm sure you had more kill stories than you even had time to tell. Good luck getting it back to stock to sell and with your future endeavors.
I got my quote back today to forge the bottom end....
Keeping my crank, not doing anything to the heads on a completely undamaged, perfectly running engine...
$8k
That is rods, pistons, gaskets, billet oil pump gears, ARP bolts and balancing.
Add $2k to sleeve the block.
That is also NOT them removing the engine, trans etc. Just bring the engine to them and 4 months later pick it up....
More than I thought... you guys?
Keeping my crank, not doing anything to the heads on a completely undamaged, perfectly running engine...
$8k
That is rods, pistons, gaskets, billet oil pump gears, ARP bolts and balancing.
Add $2k to sleeve the block.
That is also NOT them removing the engine, trans etc. Just bring the engine to them and 4 months later pick it up....
More than I thought... you guys?
4 months.... that is a lot more than I thought! For $8k, I'd like it back in a week or two....
4 months is a long time to have a car out of commission.
Hi,
There is no real animosity, as I metioned in my post the block is excellent if you are not going to mod the car over 700 RWHP, and my sentiments are the same as most that want to take their cars to another level, Ford should of spent the money on some good rods period, mass produced this would of been of minimal cost to us on the long run. Trust me this is not my first rodeo, I know you have to pay to play.
Totally true, the 13,000 mi that the car lasted were super fun and were enjoyed to the fullest with tons of kill stories. Thank you for your thoughts, and yes there is a new project in mind once I trade in the the Shelby.
Take care,
Manuel
You are missing a return fuel system and most of the down time comes if you are sleeving the block, plus the labor costs involved.
They told me 1 month, without sleeving the block.
Yup!
Who gave you that quote.
Sounds like MMR, I had a similar quote and 4 month down time when I called them before my block went south.
Wow
Or......... Just do it yourself, minus the sleeving. Parts plus labor for the balancing.
Agreed.. he is very busy but one of the best out there
I know right? June? going to take my chances
That's 10k more than what I have enjoyed so far....
1 month I can live with. And no need for return fuel if your staying at your current level and just getting extra security
BES Racing
No way would I attempt that! You see the thread from dude who had very reputable shops do his and they didn't do it right... Too many parts with special things needed to be done... Pass
MPR (not MMR) gave me a quote of $5400. That's with all new parts and a crank. I havnt heard anything bad about MPR yet
That's who i'm leaning towards. Probably give em a call this week.
Users who are viewing this thread
