Waiting on a callback from Bullet Racing Cams as they produce the Lethal Performance NSR grind. Also tried contacting Cushman Motorsports and not having any success. Can’t find a phone #.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
NSR Cam Choices - Best Option
- Thread starter Streetpwr281
- Start date
Waiting on a callback from Bullet Racing Cams as they produce the Lethal Performance NSR grind. Also tried contacting Cushman Motorsports and not having any success. Can’t find a phone #.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's good info on the L&M NSR cams, those are the ones I planned to go with. I also DD my Shelby and don't want it to be a pig down low.
Yeah it’s doesn’t mean the off the shelf NSR from L&M is a poor option just not ideal for my car being a daily driver and getting stuck in commute traffic regularly. If it were a weekend only car I could probably tolerate the low speed characteristic in exchange for the max peak power. It’s all trade offs w cams just trying to strike the right balance especially w limitation of stock rods as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m glad I’ve done all this research. I may opt to just upgrade my 2.9 Whipple to Gen 3 version and that’s it for now. Should make ~ 760rwhp or more on pump 93 easily. Given the cost and trade offs involved with cams may wait until I can retire my Shelby from daily driving and upgrade the rods. If the cam sound at idle wasn’t so damn intoxicating!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Good call, any cam over stock is going to push the redline above stock rod/OPG safe limits.
I think you'll get more benefit from the blower upgrade.
Last though, do you have E85 around?
SO much safer for a raced car, especially when hot in FLA
-J
Yes E85 pumps are plentiful here. RaceTrac Station 1 mile from the house has it. Already discussed this option with my tuner. BAP and an Nguage to store multiple tunes and its done. I think I’d rarely use the E85 tune though as I don’t dedicated race it and really don’t want to run it daily due to low mpg and impact on engine parts. Just not sure yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wanted to add a couple pieces of info I've come across in the past.
- kenne bell stumbled across data in their testing showing stock cams run out of steam around 6250 rpm, before redline. Its in one of the articles on their site.
- our 4v heads breathe really well at lower lift, so it seems to me duration is more important than lift.
- kenne bell stumbled across data in their testing showing stock cams run out of steam around 6250 rpm, before redline. Its in one of the articles on their site.
- our 4v heads breathe really well at lower lift, so it seems to me duration is more important than lift.
There is definitely benefits to upgrading the stock cams for more rwhp/rwtq even in streetcar w max rpm ~ 6500. Just had some good conversation with Cushman Motorsports regarding their Stg 1 & 2 NSR spec cams (Bullet grinds for them). Got me thinking again. I definitely wouldn’t go any larger than their 233/240 Stg 2 grind but to his point driveability will still be pretty good now and the cam allows more room for future growth when I do upgrade rods/shortblock/boost.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nonsense. The red pull below was to ~6750 rpm (hp is top curve, tq bottom). Car would have continued to make power above 7000 rpm if the rods would let me.
Stock cams.
I don't think that run went past 6,250. Here's why. While it's a bad pic, I'm seeing that at about 112 mph, your horsepower and torque are about equal. When the lines intersect, that would be 5,252 rpm. 112/5,2520*133=6,250. The stock cam on a 5.4 generally peters out at 6,250. You might eek a few more ponies beyond that, but it's done. Higher boost with race gas might extend it another couple hundred rpm.
It went to 6750++.
My rev limiter is set at 6700 and the idiot dyno operator bounced the car off limiter for a few seconds before he let out.
A yelling match ensued and i was almost thrown out.
Im a thousand percent confident it was over 6700 rpm.
Could be the mph wasnt reading correctly on the bottom of sheet? IDK
My rev limiter is set at 6700 and the idiot dyno operator bounced the car off limiter for a few seconds before he let out.
A yelling match ensued and i was almost thrown out.
Im a thousand percent confident it was over 6700 rpm.
Could be the mph wasnt reading correctly on the bottom of sheet? IDK
Add another option to the NSR list: Bullet Racing “Lethal” Grind NSR 227/230 @ .050 .480”/.465”
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
L&M NSR cams will lose a little bottom end (you have plenty to spare) and pick up dramatically over 4,000rpm.
My car isn't a 5.8 and it's built, but I specifically did a test for L&M to get them a real baseline and final results.
On my 2007 with 9.7:1CR and stock displacement I picked up exactly 80 rwhp.
I would anticipate more like 50 on a stock motor. Same for most NSR options.
[email protected]
My car isn't a 5.8 and it's built, but I specifically did a test for L&M to get them a real baseline and final results.
On my 2007 with 9.7:1CR and stock displacement I picked up exactly 80 rwhp.
I would anticipate more like 50 on a stock motor. Same for most NSR options.
[email protected]
My 2007 makes well over 900 rwhp on L&M. Daily driver. Idles fine. Cruises perfectly. No probs in the DQ drive through
It's in the calibration if everything is installed correctly.
[email protected]
My 2007 makes well over 900 rwhp on L&M. Daily driver. Idles fine. Cruises perfectly. No probs in the DQ drive through
It's in the calibration if everything is installed correctly.
[email protected]
Can you lug the car in stop n go traffic at 1200rpms without it bucking? My commute twice weekly is a PITA stop n go highway ride through Tampa where I’m crawling at 8 - 15mph for easily 30 - 40 mins. Would I lose my mind and burn the car to the ground in that setting w L&M NSRs? Would it be better w a very mild NSR?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here's the web page. You need to download the article at the bottom, its a blurb in the last paragraph.
Sorry to annoy you, when i said "run out of steam" i meant the that's where the curve inflection point is... it ends over and stars going down, or at least stops rising at the same rate. Your graph shows this, just not as dramatically as the one on the KB article.
Sorry to annoy you, when i said "run out of steam" i meant the that's where the curve inflection point is... it ends over and stars going down, or at least stops rising at the same rate. Your graph shows this, just not as dramatically as the one on the KB article.
Probably, youd want to look into lower gears. With the 6th gear we have, you don't need to worry about highway speeds.
If its bucking, downshift....i get better fuel mileage at 3000 rpm/ lower gear than <2000 rpm and higher gear (judging by the dash). But you can't downshift in stop and go traffic.
If its bucking, downshift....i get better fuel mileage at 3000 rpm/ lower gear than <2000 rpm and higher gear (judging by the dash). But you can't downshift in stop and go traffic.
It's in the tune. As I mentioned, I can sit there in the drive thru and just allow it to move forward with a curl of the toes. I have my idle at 950. Less thump and lope at that rpm but mo betta for making sure you have plenty of vacuum.
I'm running the Bullet "Lethal Grind" cams. Fan-freakin-tastic. Driveability was improved (partly due to cam, partly due to the tuner having excellent knowledge of these cars). The sound is great and the power gains were massive.
Users who are viewing this thread
