Its been awhile but here are my most recent mods

[SVT_Troy]

So for now I am not going back to a trunk mounted tank enver though i understand having the increased capacity is extremely beneficial. I picked up a true forged tank which I will have 1" fittings welded to.

I think using standard heater hose directly to the intercooler adapter would cause the hose to collapse since it has to bend a significant amount. Here is how I plan to set it up. I picked up 1" silicone 45° & 90° molded hoses from pegasus racing and will cut them to the appropriate length in an effort of reducing bends as much as possible. I am waiting until i get the modded tank back before cutting the silicone hoses.

I'll be sure to post pics of it when done.

IMG_8685

 

[SVT_Troy]

Decided to mess around with the A-arms today. I used Amsoil Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease, NLGI #2. My absolute favorite synthetic grease is Green Grease. This stuff is tacky, it will last through an atomic blast! I use it on non serviceable bushings. The MM arms have zerk fittings so amsoil it is.

IMG_8905

Well I appear to have an issue with my Steeda K-member. You can see here that the rear A-arm attachment point is off. My first thought was to just spread the mounting ears out but after thinking about it, that is not a good idea. The front mount slips in with no issue at all. The rear is to tight, I would have to grind the A-arm and its bushing down to get them to fit. I don't want to go this route either.

IMG_9937

IMG_6214

IMG_0557

Even the spacer itself does not fit.

IMG_8452

I thought that the MM arms were just off and luckily I still have oem set. No dice... OEM A-arms fit the exact same way so i'm thinking this K was built slightly off. I'll be contacting Steeda on Monday to see whats up.

IMG_9080

I'd like to hear you guys thoughts and opinions as well. Maybe I am overlooking something.

 

[CobraBob]

Primo build. The best gets the best, eh? Really impressive. Spring and summer are just around the corner. Well, sort of. LOL.

 

[Soap]

Looks great Troy!!

--Joe

 

[jm35ny]

Great looking car!

 

[SVT_Troy]

Thanks guys, its coming along..... Slowly but surely.

 

[whitedevil95]

What pump are you going with to move the fluid?

 

[T3RM1N8R_18]

Decided to mess around with the A-arms today. I used Amsoil Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease, NLGI #2. My absolute favorite synthetic grease is Green Grease. This stuff is tacky, it will last through an atomic blast! I use it on non serviceable bushings. The MM arms have zerk fittings so amsoil it is.

View attachment 1458041IMG_8905

Well I appear to have an issue with my Steeda K-member. You can see here that the rear A-arm attachment point is off. My first thought was to just spread the mounting ears out but after thinking about it, that is not a good idea. The front mount slips in with no issue at all. The rear is to tight, I would have to grind the A-arm and its bushing down to get them to fit. I don't want to go this route either.

View attachment 1458042IMG_9937

View attachment 1458043IMG_6214

View attachment 1458044IMG_0557

Even the spacer itself does not fit.

View attachment 1458045IMG_8452

I thought that the MM arms were just off and luckily I still have oem set. No dice... OEM A-arms fit the exact same way so i'm thinking this K was built slightly off. I'll be contacting Steeda on Monday to see whats up.

View attachment 1458046IMG_9080

I'd like to here you guys thoughts and opinions as well. Maybe I am overlooking something.

I'm interested in how this goes. I just purchased the Viking front coilover kit and was planning on the Steeda K-member with MM A-arms. In this article Steeda actually installs MM A-arms on their K-member and don't seem to have any issues. Please keep us posted on how it turns out.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...utosports-k-member-is-designed-for-the-turns/

 

[SVT_Troy]

I'm interested in how this goes. I just purchased the Viking front coilover kit and was planning on the Steeda K-member with MM A-arms. In this article Steeda actually installs MM A-arms on their K-member and don't seem to have any issues. Please keep us posted on how it turns out.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...utosports-k-member-is-designed-for-the-turns/

I started a post on facebook (03-04 cobra advice) detailing it. I also posted a video showing the issue. basically the LCA mounting pockets on the steeda piece is correct. The space between the pockets are incorrect, its like they shortened the space by an 1/8" causing the LCA's to not fit. I talked to Steeda today and they sent me a return label. They want to figure out how this could have happened and send me a correct K-member. They also asked for me to send my LCA's in with their K which I am doing.

So far I am beyond impressed with their customer service/tech. Mistakes happen but what they do to fix them means the world to me.

What pump are you going with to move the fluid?

You can kind of see the pump I use in post #1. It is a Jabsco pump that i used in my old rear tank setup. By looking at the flow in the tank it appeared to flow well. Nothing scientific about my flow observations at all.

Here's a link to my pump:https://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-50840...TF8&qid=1516151059&sr=8-1&keywords=50840-0012

 

[T3RM1N8R_18]

Awesome, great to hear it's getting worked out. Thanks for the update.

Sent from my SM-G950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[SVT_Troy]

My intercooler and radiator tanks came back from the powder coaters yesterday. I think they turned out nicely. I sent both tanks off so they would match perfectly. My guy was able to match them to the VMP blowers color pretty decently, i'll have to wait until it gets out in the sun light to really tell.

Anyway overall I am impressed with True Forged tanks but let down in a few areas. I'm not sure what grade of aluminum he used but it is not 6061/6063. It really seems like 2011/2024 but i'm not a metal expert. Also the nipple for the overflow hose on the radiator tank is too large so the oem hose does not fit well. I should have caught this first and had a smaller nipple welded on.

Anyway here is what my I/C tank looks like now. I had a small piece welded onto the pumps lower supply fitting like True Forge did to prevent large pieces of ice to become clogged. This is the choke point in the tank if any.

IMG_4772

Lower hose fitting:

IMG_3681


upper hose fitting:

IMG_3686

 

[SVT_Troy]

finally starting to put everything back together. Make sure you add plenty of lube so you do not nick those new packings. It is a tight fit and the I/C adapter ends are sharp. Thinking about it now I should have deburred that piece so it the packings slide in easier.

IMG_7698

Thanks to Soap's recommendation on checking the seal on the O-rings prior to running the car i decided to somewhat check before i even installed it. I rigged up my mighty vac to pull a vacuum on the system. I got it up to around 20" of vacuum max and it held for a few minutes. Keep in mind typical pump pressures are higher than this but this does tell me i didn't fully cut a o-ring or something that bad. I will still check it prior to running the car to make sure its not leaking under higher pressure.

Thanks again Joe

IMG_9523


I picked up another angle hose so now i have a 45°, 60° & 90°. I think the 60° is going to fit better reducing bends/ flow lose. I'll find out soon.

IMG_7192

 

[SVT_Troy]

Random pics of my lower intake porting that i did a couple years ago..... I said i was going to buy another intake and try again being more precise but it takes such a long time i just haven't done it....

IMG_6371

IMG_6776

IMG_1310

 

[whitedevil95]

Good idea to pressure test. Im gonna do that next time.

 

[fitforspeed]

I'm interested in how this goes. I just purchased the Viking front coilover kit and was planning on the Steeda K-member with MM A-arms. In this article Steeda actually installs MM A-arms on their K-member and don't seem to have any issues. Please keep us posted on how it turns out.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...utosports-k-member-is-designed-for-the-turns/

Decided to mess around with the A-arms today. I used Amsoil Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease, NLGI #2. My absolute favorite synthetic grease is Green Grease. This stuff is tacky, it will last through an atomic blast! I use it on non serviceable bushings. The MM arms have zerk fittings so amsoil it is.

View attachment 1458041IMG_8905

Well I appear to have an issue with my Steeda K-member. You can see here that the rear A-arm attachment point is off. My first thought was to just spread the mounting ears out but after thinking about it, that is not a good idea. The front mount slips in with no issue at all. The rear is to tight, I would have to grind the A-arm and its bushing down to get them to fit. I don't want to go this route either.

View attachment 1458042IMG_9937

View attachment 1458043IMG_6214

View attachment 1458044IMG_0557

Even the spacer itself does not fit.

View attachment 1458045IMG_8452

I thought that the MM arms were just off and luckily I still have oem set. No dice... OEM A-arms fit the exact same way so i'm thinking this K was built slightly off. I'll be contacting Steeda on Monday to see whats up.

View attachment 1458046IMG_9080

I'd like to here you guys thoughts and opinions as well. Maybe I am overlooking something.

This was my car in the Steeda article. My car previously had a UPR tube K so I had already modified the Maximum A arms to fit the narrower space. If I remember correctly I just machined the Delrin bushing and sleeve down a little on the two inside bushings of each arm to fit. Haven’t experienced any issues or ill effects that I’ve noticed from doing that.

 

[fitforspeed]

This was my car in the Steeda article. My car previously had a UPR tube K so I had already modified the Maximum A arms to fit the narrower space. If I remember correctly I just machined the Delrin bushing and sleeve down a little on the two inside bushings of each arm to fit. Haven’t experienced any issues or ill effects that I’ve noticed from doing that.

I just went and looked and appears that it was the two outside end bushings that we had to turn down by I believe 1/8 on each arm.

 

[fitforspeed]

I just went and looked and appears that it was the two outside end bushings that we had to turn down by I believe 1/8 on each arm.

And I believe that the factory a-arms will fit as I think the rubber will just compress a little for a tight fit like on the factory k. I did not try it though as the bushings in my factory a-arms were already dry rotting.

 

[SVT_Troy]

The team at Steeda has treated me properly. I sent them my K-member back along with my MM A-arms. They told me right away something was off with the new K-member they sent me.

Yesterday I received an email saying that it was shipping out today and everything fits like it should from the factory. Moral of the story guys, don't make high quality parts fit when they are advertised to fit like OEM. Contact the manufacturer and give them the opportunity to fix their product improving it for the community. Steeda is TOP NOTCH in my book. Thanks guys!

 

[WildCobra]

Keep up the good work looks great Troy

 

[98turbls1]

Easiest and cheapest way to pressure test the new J2 ported I/C. Two sink/bathtub stoppers from Home Depot. Drilled the center out of one and just shoved my air gun in the middle. Leak test complete.

View attachment 1452205

Just to clarify, you have to send you HE and IC to them to port right?