You can't compare cast iron to cast aluminum. You have to beef up those areas to make up for the softer aluminum.
Motor's Blown, What's My Best Option?
- Thread starter BlownAway03
- Start date
You can't compare cast iron to cast aluminum. You have to beef up those areas to make up for the softer aluminum.
I don't think block strength has ever been a problem for us. The stock cast iron block, aluminator, and the teskid block can handle an enormous amount of power. i remember when the old 5.0 blocks would split on 500 rwhp.
I know. My point was the huge amount of difference between the two. I cant say what the difference between a teksid and an aluminator block are since I havent had them sitting right next to eachother.
as for the aluminator the raised boss on each side must be ground down considerably and then after that you will find that the pcv fitting on the bottom of the intake isnt even close to clearning the valley so you will need to make your own brass fitting and might even have to grind on it some to clear.
I wouldn't go to Livernois for there blocks/rotating assembly. I wouldn't trust those crappy Mahle pistons any day. Go to FoxLake. They use diamond pistons. Better yet here......http://www.foxlakeracing.com/modular.php
Sorry to hear about your motor. Same thing has happened to me twice...#7 piston. I had the stock motor rebuilt with stock internals with the exception of the pistons...I went with JE's.
Where is SC do you live?
Where is SC do you live?
I live in Edgefield near Aiken. How did you address your engine damage?
I had the motor rebuilt. Bored .20 over and had JE pistons installed. Since my pistons were melted from high temps I also had the Aptem cooling mod installed (with brass T fitting), and installed a GordsFord HE.
I need a new longblock also we are on the same boat!
Just to clarify, our pistons we use in our stokers are not normal mahle pistons, they are designed by us, have their own unique forging blanks, and have quite alot of people making over 900 reliable rwhp using them. We use them in our shop cars, including one of our employees car's that has gone 8.50's at 170 on "crappy mahle pistons" we also use diamond for some applications, they make a good piston as well. but our rotating kits are tested/proven to and past 1000 hp with the mahle piston.
I'm not knocking Livernois i just don't trust those Mahle pistons as a few of them have melted when they are exposed to high amounts of boost. There's a reason why all the guy over at turbomustangs.com only go with Diamond & tell everyone to stay away from Mahle.
You guys do excellent work don't get me wrong & i would use you guys any time but I'm just not a fan of those pistons
30 lbs + 103 octane + mahle pistons = 8.50's 
I think more importantly is a 4032 piston doesn't like detonation. well, niether does a 2618, but a 2618 is a little more forgiving. But ultimately any piston that encounters detonation is going to fail at those boost levels. This is why for levels above 20psi we recommend our pro-series mahle, which is a 2618 material. No don't get me wrong, we have pushed 4032 way past the recommended 20 psi with great results, but you do have to tune accordingly, i.e. good fuel, and a safe tune.
I think more importantly is a 4032 piston doesn't like detonation. well, niether does a 2618, but a 2618 is a little more forgiving. But ultimately any piston that encounters detonation is going to fail at those boost levels. This is why for levels above 20psi we recommend our pro-series mahle, which is a 2618 material. No don't get me wrong, we have pushed 4032 way past the recommended 20 psi with great results, but you do have to tune accordingly, i.e. good fuel, and a safe tune.
I just bit the bullet today and ordered a longblock from Ford. What do you guys think? I wanted to rebuild with better pistons but I just didn't want the downtime. Plus, I don't trust any of our local machine shops with machining or refreshing my heads. I got a great price on the longblock with my employee discount too. I figure I may save a lot of headaches this way. A buddy of mine rebuilt his cobra shortblock and a couple of months later dropped a valve seat. He then put new heads on it and sold it. About two months down the road he got a call saying the car now had a spun rod bearing. I just couldn't risk it. Plus the Ford longblock comes with a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty.
How much did that cost you if you don't mind me asking?
About $3800 plus tax.
Good for you. Did the right thing IMO.
what oil pump are guys running with?What is the difference with the 05 heads compared with 04 heads?
The Cobra oil pump has a 13mm wide rotor (vs. 12). Most guys stick with the stock pumps because they are pretty reliable over billet gears which have been known to fail taking the engine with it.
The 05 heads have a revised water jacket to improve cooling on #7 & 8 exhaust valve guides reducing the chance of getting the "tick". They also have 9 thread spark plug holes (some 04 have 9 as well) vs. only 4 :nonono: for the 03's and early 04's
who's tune were you running on the old motor?
I'd love to buy a livernois motor...but they are just so HIGH. Do you guys do anything for forum members.
I've been through 4 motors this year and frankly i'm getting sick of the car. It's always something stupid.
I've been through 4 motors this year and frankly i'm getting sick of the car. It's always something stupid.
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