My car has 88,000 miles on it. It's had at least 15psi of boost since around 30,000 miles. It has lasted alot longer than many of my friends thought. It recently started smoking like a freight train. I took it to the dealership where I work and pulled spark plug #7 and it was soaked with oil. I looked into the cylinder with a boroscope and there it was..... the horror. I'm pretty certain that the ring land is damaged because oil was on top of the piston and the edges of the piston looked jagged. I would like some advice from those who have been here. Should I rebuild or buy a shortblock? I will be doing the work myself. Whatever you suggest, please name manufacturers. I've been looking at MMR for shortblocks. I would like to go the most cost efficient route.
Motor's Blown, What's My Best Option?
- Thread starter BlownAway03
- Start date
man that sucks....you did get a lot of miles out of though....build it up right and you might want to think about a valve job and putting bronze valve guides in at the same time.
whatever you do dont buy an aluminator!!!!!
I would buy a nice aluminum bare block and have modular performance, livernoise, etc build you a nice shortblock or longblock.
I would buy a nice aluminum bare block and have modular performance, livernoise, etc build you a nice shortblock or longblock.
A collapsed ring land sounds like detonation (over spinning that Eaton might have been a factor there). Not sure what the effect that has downwind of the pistons (#7 connecting rod comes to mind). You might want to inquire about this further before you start breaking down the motor.
If nothing else is tweaked I would rebuild what you have. A used block is well seasoned which I prefer over a new one as long as it’s straight. Pay close attention to the wear patterns in the rod and main bearing (especially #7) which may indicate something is not running true. If everything looks OK you may get away with pistons, rings, bearings and freshened up the top end.
I have heard nothing but good things about CP pistons. Fit them looser then the stock ones (.001" vs. .0025") and your engine can tolerate more boost. Stud the block as well.
If nothing else is tweaked I would rebuild what you have. A used block is well seasoned which I prefer over a new one as long as it’s straight. Pay close attention to the wear patterns in the rod and main bearing (especially #7) which may indicate something is not running true. If everything looks OK you may get away with pistons, rings, bearings and freshened up the top end.
I have heard nothing but good things about CP pistons. Fit them looser then the stock ones (.001" vs. .0025") and your engine can tolerate more boost. Stud the block as well.
what does it cost pressing in and out 32 valve guides then grinding 32 seats and valves compared to a brand new pair of 05 update heads "ready-to-install" for $1500?
I'm going to start tearing it down tomorrow and hope for the best. I really just want to rebuild what I have.
frpp has done a shoddy a$$ job making them and an even worse job of customer service after no less than 9 of us found out, called them, were lied to, fought for weeks on end, cost us thousands extra, etc.........
http://svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=526087
a good start would be an aluminator bare block and build it from there.
sorry to hear about the misfortunes
sorry to hear about the misfortunes
i agree with the other guys-go with a bare aluminum block and have it built by livernois...they did a kick a$$ job on my buddys 2v build.
Is that a WAP aluminum block? The origins of this engine are a bit of a mystery to me.
from what I understand it is an entirely new casting and is stronger than all pervious aluminum block castings.
I would do just like Jeff (hissman) is doing and have an aluminator bare block built with salvaged parts from your stock motor and the best you can get as far as fasteners, pistons, oil pump, etc put in. If I would have known that FRPP's POS they sent me was going to cost me more time and money I would have just went ahead and put that time and money into having Modular Performance build it for me the right way.
I went with an aluminator longblock to #1 get the better heads and #2 save time. Yeah I ended up with the new heads but for the amount of money it cost me I could have just bought them from Steve at Tousley and for the time FRPP's screw up cost me I could have torn my old motor down, sent everything to Modular Performance, had it all built, and then back in the car.
I had my original motor rebuilt at .020 with diamond pistons, rings etc. It all depends on how much you want to spend. I kept the cost down on mine and for what it is worth the car still has the original matching number engine!
I started the teardown process today. The driver's side manifold was full of oil. I talked to MMR today about shortblocks. Have any of you heard any pros and cons about MMR. They have their MMR 900 shortblock on sale for $2699 and it's supposed to handle 900 hp. If I do go this route I would like to sell my original shortblock. I'm also thinking about getting the revised '05 heads. So if any of you know someone who would like 03 cobra heads and shortblock please let me know. I will verify that there is no major damage to the block and heads soon. I should have the engine completely torn down by this weekend.
mmr has had some big time bad press here lately. More than a few longblocks have failed due to improper torque on parts.
I would stick with modular performance, al pappito, livernoise.............
Is it beefier then a Teksid block?
From my understanding Ford claims it is.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9444
the valley in between the cylinder bores is MUCH beefier even compared to the stock cobra cast iron block. Only problem is there is a raised boos on each side of the valley (evidently for knock sensors on non cobra applications) that will need to be filed or ground down. Its not that big of a deal though.
Just an FYI, the aluminator block is nothing other then an 05+ 3v block, that has been machined slightly different so earlier timing covers will fit. It is a great deal stronger then a teksid as well...
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