show me your garage

1Kona_Venom

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Need some help.

First, my Garage gets hotter than ambient because I'm guessing the sun beats on it all day. Can I get some sort of vent system hooked up to cycle it and keep it at least ambient temperature?


Second, got a guy that will do expoxy floors and paint walls for $1/sq foot.

Recommendations on colors? Wanted to go something retro. White floor and sea foam walls?

Going to junk all these garbage shelves.

View attachment 1655569View attachment 1655570View attachment 1655571


You don't want white floor unless you have a Zamboni to clean it once a week.
I work in an aircraft hangar, high end white floors. They don't hold up, constantly dirty and chipping

edit: sorry, do what you want, lol. I was just pointing out why I was glad I didn't go white or high gloss when I did my floor.
 

1 VET ETR

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You have a really nice set up! What lifts are you using and what’s the height of your garage?

I run Direct Lifts. The 2 car side has the 8K pound lift and a 9 foot 6 inch ceiling height so you need short cars to pull off a lift. On the single side is the 9K pound lift where I pushed up the ceiling height to 12 feet to be able to work on the fleet and park the Lightning.
 
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Norton

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Need some help.

First, my Garage gets hotter than ambient because I'm guessing the sun beats on it all day. Can I get some sort of vent system hooked up to cycle it and keep it at least ambient temperature?

Second, got a guy that will do expoxy floors and paint walls for $1/sq foot.

Recommendations on colors? Wanted to go something retro. White floor and sea foam walls?
I agree with @1Kona_Venom - You do not want light-colored floors in your garage. I went with a white ceiling, to make it brighter, but the walls and floor are darker to hide dust/dirt. If you're serious about reducing temps, confirm your door, walls, and ceiling are properly insulated. Adding an exhaust fan might not be a bad idea, but to be effective, you'll have to ensure it can pull cooler air in from somewhere.

$1/sq ft is a steal, assuming a good job is done. That said, epoxy is no longer the best option for garage floors. Polyaspartic coatings are more durable and resist hot-tire pickup much better than epoxy.

I run Direct Lifts. The 2 car side has the 8K pound lift and a 9 foot 6 inch ceiling height so you need short cars to pull off a lift. On the single side is the 9K pound lift were I pushed up the ceiling height to 12 feet to be able to work on the fleet and park the Lightning.
Nice! I'm also happy with my Direct-Lift Pro Park 8S - ALI-certified, 110V operation, no special requirements (e.g., compressed air) to release the locks, and casters, jack tray and drip trays included. I added a Pro Jack 3500 to permit tire/wheel/suspension work.

9' 6" must be pretty tight! My ceilings are 11+ feet, so I can comfortably stack and work on any of the cars standing up, but I'm limited to a rolling stool under my truck.
 
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1Kona_Venom

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Polyaspartic is what I went with.
Very happy with looks and durability





IMG_20190420_093120_892.jpeg
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Tifosi2003GT

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CobraBob

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DSG2003Mach1

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Yeah I figured it would only be good for 5 years.

Guy did an outstanding job with the house walls and I got several recommendations for his garage work. I was skeptical because I'm aware of the pit falls which is why I didn't sign up to it originally. I've seen guys pay $7-9/sq-ft.

for epoxy w/ flake and 2 layers of top coat I was getting quoted 5.25-6.50/ft. I ended up at 3.75 with a lifetime warranty against it lifting.

That floor looks really good, and looks durable. Do you have to use knee pads when kneeling on it. Looks like it's definitely not a smooth surface. I like it, though.

Bob - if its like the normal epoxy and flake flooring it's actually pretty smooth, what Ive noticed is there are some "spiky" places. The best I can figure its from where they walk around on the top coat with their spiked shoes and it doesn't settle back down 100%, you'll know when you're under the car and find one with the back of your head.

I have noticed that the epoxy floors are slicker than shit with wet/sweaty skin, seems to be ok with any kind of footwear with a tread. Ive also had the boards I pull up on kick out a couple times which was an issue before.
 

1Kona_Venom

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What brand did you go with? I'm about 6 weeks away from my garage remodel before floors get done. How many pounds of chips and what size chips did you add to your floor? Looks great!!

That floor looks really good, and looks durable. Do you have to use knee pads when kneeling on it. Looks like it's definitely not a smooth surface. I like it, though.

My wife says her knees feel fine after being on the garage floor. ;) No knee pads needed.
I prefer the floor to be slightly rough, and the chips are very grippy.


I had a guy come and hook me up. I paid for it.
I had worked at lowes for 18 months saw plenty of customers pissed off after trying to do it themselves.

1. Diamond Grind the Floor (acid etch is not as good, pita)
2. Clean the floor with water; air dry
3. Apply liquid rubber membrane to seal the floor
4. Deliver chip mixture using a drop spreader (like a Scotts), back and forth
5. Rake loose chips. This also removes any sharp edges.
6. Apply 1 coat of clear polyurethane. 2 coats if you want real glossy.

Cost: $1100.00 (to watch and drink beer)

I dropped a 3/4" punch on purpose from on top of my 6' ladder. It did not break the flooring.
I walk across the floor barefoot periodically and it feels good! Honestly.
Rolled my tool box across the floor 4 hours after the install. Parked the car back in the garage at the 8 hour mark. Cures fast!

@03cobra#694 has the same flooring. He may chime in.


Here is my thread I NEED to update it because its way far along now and pretty much done. Just go to page 2

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/2-car-garage-renovation.1171008/
 

03cobra#694

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My wife says her knees feel fine after being on the garage floor. ;) No knee pads needed.
I prefer the floor to be slightly rough, and the chips are very grippy.


I had a guy come and hook me up. I paid for it.
I had worked at lowes for 18 months saw plenty of customers pissed off after trying to do it themselves.

1. Diamond Grind the Floor (acid etch is not as good, pita)
2. Clean the floor with water; air dry
3. Apply liquid rubber membrane to seal the floor
4. Deliver chip mixture using a drop spreader (like a Scotts), back and forth
5. Rake loose chips. This also removes any sharp edges.
6. Apply 1 coat of clear polyurethane. 2 coats if you want real glossy.

Cost: $1100.00 (to watch and drink beer)

I dropped a 3/4" punch on purpose from on top of my 6' ladder. It did not break the flooring.
I walk across the floor barefoot periodically and it feels good! Honestly.
Rolled my tool box across the floor 4 hours after the install. Parked the car back in the garage at the 8 hour mark. Cures fast!

@03cobra#694 has the same flooring. He may chime in.


Here is my thread I NEED to update it because its way far along now and pretty much done. Just go to page 2

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/2-car-garage-renovation.1171008/
Pretty much everything he said. It’s the shit. So happy I did it.
CE89AFEA-8277-4BC3-B0E5-7B5758AFAF80.jpeg
 

CobraBob

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Bob - if its like the normal epoxy and flake flooring it's actually pretty smooth, what Ive noticed is there are some "spiky" places. The best I can figure its from where they walk around on the top coat with their spiked shoes and it doesn't settle back down 100%, you'll know when you're under the car and find one with the back of your head.

I have noticed that the epoxy floors are slicker than shit with wet/sweaty skin, seems to be ok with any kind of footwear with a tread. Ive also had the boards I pull up on kick out a couple times which was an issue before.
It's probably much smooth than it looks in the photo.

My wife says her knees feel fine after being on the garage floor. ;) No knee pads needed.
I prefer the floor to be slightly rough, and the chips are very grippy.

I had a guy come and hook me up. I paid for it.
I had worked at lowes for 18 months saw plenty of customers pissed off after trying to do it themselves.

1. Diamond Grind the Floor (acid etch is not as good, pita)
2. Clean the floor with water; air dry
3. Apply liquid rubber membrane to seal the floor
4. Deliver chip mixture using a drop spreader (like a Scotts), back and forth
5. Rake loose chips. This also removes any sharp edges.
6. Apply 1 coat of clear polyurethane. 2 coats if you want real glossy.

Cost: $1100.00 (to watch and drink beer)

I dropped a 3/4" punch on purpose from on top of my 6' ladder. It did not break the flooring.
I walk across the floor barefoot periodically and it feels good! Honestly.
Rolled my tool box across the floor 4 hours after the install. Parked the car back in the garage at the 8 hour mark. Cures fast!

@03cobra#694 has the same flooring. He may chime in.

Here is my thread I NEED to update it because its way far along now and pretty much done. Just go to page 2

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/2-car-garage-renovation.1171008/
Ah, I didn't know your floor is the same as Brad's. I read through his thread and saw how awesome it looked when it was finished. As rugged as it is good looking.
 

BOOGIE MAN

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What's the name of that crazy garage forum again? I'm waiting for my next book to arrive and have some time to kill (and envy to stir up)

Posts and likes are not mine.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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What's the name of that crazy garage forum again? I'm waiting for my next book to arrive and have some time to kill (and envy to stir up)

Posts and likes are not mine.

garage journal

i love my floors though, makes it look bigger and definitely brighter with the reflection

I did have to resort to basically laying down and looking across the floor to find a small screw I dropped though
 

CobraBob

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My wife says her knees feel fine after being on the garage floor. ;) No knee pads needed.
I prefer the floor to be slightly rough, and the chips are very grippy.


I had a guy come and hook me up. I paid for it.
I had worked at lowes for 18 months saw plenty of customers pissed off after trying to do it themselves.

1. Diamond Grind the Floor (acid etch is not as good, pita)
2. Clean the floor with water; air dry
3. Apply liquid rubber membrane to seal the floor
4. Deliver chip mixture using a drop spreader (like a Scotts), back and forth
5. Rake loose chips. This also removes any sharp edges.
6. Apply 1 coat of clear polyurethane. 2 coats if you want real glossy.

Cost: $1100.00 (to watch and drink beer)

I dropped a 3/4" punch on purpose from on top of my 6' ladder. It did not break the flooring.
I walk across the floor barefoot periodically and it feels good! Honestly.
Rolled my tool box across the floor 4 hours after the install. Parked the car back in the garage at the 8 hour mark. Cures fast!

@03cobra#694 has the same flooring. He may chime in.

Here is my thread I NEED to update it because its way far along now and pretty much done. Just go to page 2

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/2-car-garage-renovation.1171008/
Pete, $1100 for that floor is a great price. I have a regular 2-bay garage and was quoted from two different installers at around $2500 for epoxy.

Question. I haven't done mine because I have moisture leeching through the concrete in a few places. Not major moisture where the surface is wet, just the white powder building up. Can I still use a product like you used and be safe from the finish separating from the concrete? I noticed that in your steps, #3 was to apply liquid rubber membrane to seal the floor.
 

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