2014 GT 500 Catastrophic Engine Failure: Next Steps? Thoughts?

Steve@TF

Steve@TF

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Just do this.

1. Delete thread
2. Push car over the side of Mulholland
3. Call insurance
4. Profit


*cough* the above advice is for entertainment purposes only *cough*

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biminiLX

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Mulholland Man said:
Bimini, even if I went with JDM components I'd be at 12.5k for the block (non sleeved). Its only 3k for the sleeving and that's cheap insurance if you ask me.
If I just went completely stock block with no built internals- like for like- its 10k new more or less- rip off. After what happened to me, I simply can't afford to have it happen again. The sleeves and I beam rods are a must for me.

I drive the car about 8.5 to 10k per year as its my daily. Nearest E85 is 7 miles from here so its a possibility and I'm considering it. ALso considering 91 Octane Tune with 1/4 bottle Boostane Professional per tank for knock insurance. Smog/CARB is the big issue here. That said, If I have KB Blower and CAI its got Carb EO# and therefore I would only have to change tune when going in for smog (unless KB has a CA legal tune - Supersnake Tune?) Below is my placeholder estimate. I have not yet received a formal estimate from a builder here locally in CA. I am guessing on shipping costs but the other costs should be more or less accurrate. THink I may have overstated the cost to reinstall engine. Let me know if I'm Missing anything. FYI, I already have a KB Dual Boostapump. Figure I'm missing a few things, esp. If I convert to E85.

View attachment 1665978
Click to expand...
Just talked to Lidio and he’s willing to deal on the diamond piston built 5.8 that he has.
Also, with a regular but short commute and E85 only 7 mikes away I’m there 100% as E85 makes SO MUCH POWER SAFER than anything you can buy at the pump.
An E85 car turned down for safety is faster than a turned up 91 car, even with Boostane.
Last, for mr Dale Baker who has a SWEET ride, try the 315/50/17 or 305/45/17 MT ET R tires on some 17x10-11s, you’ll hook 800rwhp all day. This is the reason I gave up 20s.
Ok, heading to track today, hopefully will get some good results.
-J
 
D

dale.baker

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biminiLX said:
Just talked to Lidio and he’s willing to deal on the diamond piston built 5.8 that he has.
Also, with a regular but short commute and E85 only 7 mikes away I’m there 100% as E85 makes SO MUCH POWER SAFER than anything you can buy at the pump.
An E85 car turned down for safety is faster than a turned up 91 car, even with Boostane.
Last, for mr Dale Baker who has a SWEET ride, try the 315/50/17 or 305/45/17 MT ET R tires on some 17x10-11s, you’ll hook 800rwhp all day. This is the reason I gave up 20s.
Ok, heading to track today, hopefully will get some good results.
-J
Click to expand...
J

Your the man. Thanks for the kind words. To be honest I have not touched the Shelby since 2015 after I finished the car. I know there are solutions out there for traction but as you stated, not on 20" tires. Thanks for the tip. However, I did purchase a new Demon and have been fooling around with it some here at the beach lately. Two completely different cars but the variety helps me out at the local car shows for brand loyalty. I sold my 1969 Z/28 a couple months ago or I would have all of the Big 3 currently covered.

Dale
 
Mulholland Man

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Streetpwr281 said:
If op builds a proper 5.8L I’ll give $50k


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Click to expand...
Appreciate that sentiment Streetpwr. I would tend to agree. You put a properly built motor in this beast with all the other goodies I've already added and you have one freaking hell of a ride. I'd pay 50k+ for it as well. Bought it for 52k plus warranty, taxes = 60k. THen I dumped 20k into it easily (wife says 30k but I don't count tires LOL). So I'm already 80k into it and now the car is worth maybe 18k-20k in current condition (which is ironically what I owe on it). I've looked at a LOT of other 500s and I just love MY car. The Griggs Kit (waited 8 monts for them to ship it to me), the custom exhaust system built around the Griggs system, the color/stripe combo, tinted windows, MGW shifter, the clear bra.... The conditon of the car on the inside is immaculate. Nah, I've invested too much into t his car. I married it and I'm gonna be burried in it like a pharoh, LOL. I Think it would make even less sense to buy a new 500 and start over again. Also, I have little interest in adding 100-140 pounds of iron to the front end of my car. WHY would you do that when you can go aluminum? I'm of the mind that if you do something you should do it right and most importantly I NEVER want to blow a block apart again, ever. Hence, do it once, do it right. Love the color commentary though.
 
Mulholland Man

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biminiLX said:
Just talked to Lidio and he’s willing to deal on the diamond piston built 5.8 that he has.
Also, with a regular but short commute and E85 only 7 mikes away I’m there 100% as E85 makes SO MUCH POWER SAFER than anything you can buy at the pump.
An E85 car turned down for safety is faster than a turned up 91 car, even with Boostane.
Last, for mr Dale Baker who has a SWEET ride, try the 315/50/17 or 305/45/17 MT ET R tires on some 17x10-11s, you’ll hook 800rwhp all day. This is the reason I gave up 20s.
Ok, heading to track today, hopefully will get some good results.
-J
Click to expand...
J- I am intersted in the block. I am currently trying to scraggle together cash though. I might be able to pull it off shortly just for the block. Given the compression ratio, does it NEED to run on E85? Or will it work with pump gas 91 (w/Boostane bump). Looks like there are other E85 options "coming soon" on Pearson's fuel map closer to my house but not yet. Still on the fence about E85 given the commute to buy it and worried about possible impacts of toggling between tunes and getting a bad result (boom). Would be intersted in knowing the precise specs of the build on that short block (Component list, etc.).
 
Mulholland Man

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Hi Everyone, I am Selling my car but I'm not sure exactly how to price it. I could use some help from the forum members on properly valuing the car. To the Moderator, I will PROPERLY post the car for sale on the "Market" once I get some feedback from the forum on value (I'm not a scammer). Its difficult to value because the small block and crankshaft need to be replaced. It definitely needs a new small block (see this email chain for more info). I don't know if the heads were damaged when the stock rod broke but in any case, a new owner would likely want to rebuild the upper end as well as the lower. By my accounts, the car has about a minimum of 15k worth of work to be done if you were to use stock replacement parts and 25k if you were to purchase a JDM or L&M bottom end as I have priced it. While this may be a "project car," its a Super Sick car that's had a lot of love and investment put into it already. Put a L&M or JDM forged bottom end in there and a bigger SC and your going to have a full on beast. I would greatly appreciate feedback from forum members on what they would ask for it if it were their car. See the list of mods and info below:

Car is black with black racing stripes (photos attached below). Technology and Performance Packages. Premium Stereo w 6 CD Changer, Gray heated and cooled leather seats, Navigation., Aluminum dash - see this thread for pics.

Car has the following mods:

JLT Cold Air 123mm Carbon Fiber w/ JLT Air Filter
JLT twin 67 mm Dual Throttle Body
BPS High Flow Supercharger Elbow
2.4" Metco Supercharger Pulley
Metco Belt Tensioner pulley 90mm
JLT Oil Separators on Drivers and Passenger side (Anodized black)
MGW Short Throw Shifter (set on level 4/5 stiffness)
Stiff Racing Clutch (haven't checked but think its a McCleod-Came with it when I bought it (2 owner car including me- I got it at 5k miles)
Roush Extreme Axle Back Exhaust
KB Dual Boost a Pump (installed in trunk)
Ford Racing 373 Gears
Complete Griggs Super Street GR40 Suspension Kit as follows:
New Griggs Rear end upper and lower control arms
Griggs Watts Link w Alloy blue pumpkin cover
Rear Anti Roll Bar delete with 315 kit to allow for 315s all around
Koni Coil Over Shocks and struts with custom spring rate somewhere around 180 if memory serves
Front shocks are manually adjustable- tool provided
Griggs Torque Arm welded to chassis and connected to rear diff.
Griggs adjustable lowering springs (Koni?) - Car is currently lowered about 2"
Polyurethane Bushings for less noise
Newer Nitto 555R Drag Radials rear (305/35/r20)
Newer Michelin Sport Cup 2s in Front (275/35/r19)
Automatic Hood Struts
Custom Ceramic Tinted windows sides and front window

Clear Bra installed on front bumper and along lower sides of car to prevent paint chips
Comes with SCT Tuner a few tunes loaded
Shelby signature ID Plate confirming authenticity inside car next to console and stick..
I have some sweet Black Hood pins from Shelby that I didn't install but I would throw in.
Silver Brushed aluminum fuel door
Car also has a GPS Tracking System and a Kill Switch installed (Drone Mobile System GPS Tracking (app) and ALSO Lojack Installed for redundancy).

I have all of the original stock parts; included in sale if price is right. Car has around.48k miles on the engine.
All of these mods ran me around 25k installed (Paid 60k for it in 2015). TWO owner car. Owner before me put 5k miles on it. The Rest are mine. Put a nice new built short block on this one and you have a car that has a suspension that is capable of handling and putting down that power (not that the Griggs system I have is Drag purposed but it puts the power to the ground plenty nicely.

Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!!
 
MG0h3

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Geez man. You’re gonna take a beating so get ready.

Hope you make out ok but the pool of buyers for this is very small.

If you can find a way, put an engine from a totaled car in it and then sell it. Even at that you’ll take a hit for not having an original engine.


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fearthesnake

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With the Cash someone is going to have to put in the Engine to get it running properly , my guess would be $20K to $25K tops?

Thats just my opinion, right/wrong/indifferent and I dont really know honestly.

The issue is the bank lending the money on a car with a blown engine. That weeds out a significant amount of potential buyers.

So someone is going to have to come up with the cash out of pocket basically.

Good luck and hope you get what you are looking for.
 
1Kona_Venom

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fearthesnake said:
With the Cash someone is going to have to put in the Engine to get it running properly , my guess would be $20K to $25K tops?

Thats just my opinion, right/wrong/indifferent and I dont really know honestly.

The issue is the bank lending the money on a car with a blown engine. That weeds out a significant amount of potential buyers.

So someone is going to have to come up with the cash out of pocket basically.

Good luck and hope you get what you are looking for.
Click to expand...

good point. I get my funding through USAA; 22 years now.
I have no idea what regular credit unions or banks look at/for, but with USAA I can fib on everything except the mileage and I will always get approved.

To your point though, I agree, $25k.



Mulholland Man said:
Hi Everyone, I am Selling my car but I'm not sure exactly how to price it. I could use some help from the forum members on properly valuing the car. To the Moderator, I will PROPERLY post the car for sale on the "Market" once I get some feedback from the forum on value (I'm not a scammer). Its difficult to value because the small block and crankshaft need to be replaced. It definitely needs a new small block (see this email chain for more info). I don't know if the heads were damaged when the stock rod broke but in any case, a new owner would likely want to rebuild the upper end as well as the lower. By my accounts, the car has about a minimum of 15k worth of work to be done if you were to use stock replacement parts and 25k if you were to purchase a JDM or L&M bottom end as I have priced it. While this may be a "project car," its a Super Sick car that's had a lot of love and investment put into it already. Put a L&M or JDM forged bottom end in there and a bigger SC and your going to have a full on beast. I would greatly appreciate feedback from forum members on what they would ask for it if it were their car. See the list of mods and info below:

Car is black with black racing stripes (photos attached below). Technology and Performance Packages. Premium Stereo w 6 CD Changer, Gray heated and cooled leather seats, Navigation., Aluminum dash - see this thread for pics.

Car has the following mods:

JLT Cold Air 123mm Carbon Fiber w/ JLT Air Filter
JLT twin 67 mm Dual Throttle Body
BPS High Flow Supercharger Elbow
2.4" Metco Supercharger Pulley
Metco Belt Tensioner pulley 90mm
JLT Oil Separators on Drivers and Passenger side (Anodized black)
MGW Short Throw Shifter (set on level 4/5 stiffness)
Stiff Racing Clutch (haven't checked but think its a McCleod-Came with it when I bought it (2 owner car including me- I got it at 5k miles)
Roush Extreme Axle Back Exhaust
KB Dual Boost a Pump (installed in trunk)
Ford Racing 373 Gears
Complete Griggs Super Street GR40 Suspension Kit as follows:
New Griggs Rear end upper and lower control arms
Griggs Watts Link w Alloy blue pumpkin cover
Rear Anti Roll Bar delete with 315 kit to allow for 315s all around
Koni Coil Over Shocks and struts with custom spring rate somewhere around 180 if memory serves
Front shocks are manually adjustable- tool provided
Griggs Torque Arm welded to chassis and connected to rear diff.
Griggs adjustable lowering springs (Koni?) - Car is currently lowered about 2"
Polyurethane Bushings for less noise
Newer Nitto 555R Drag Radials rear (305/35/r20)
Newer Michelin Sport Cup 2s in Front (275/35/r19)
Automatic Hood Struts
Custom Ceramic Tinted windows sides and front window

Clear Bra installed on front bumper and along lower sides of car to prevent paint chips
Comes with SCT Tuner a few tunes loaded
Shelby signature ID Plate confirming authenticity inside car next to console and stick..
I have some sweet Black Hood pins from Shelby that I didn't install but I would throw in.
Silver Brushed aluminum fuel door
Car also has a GPS Tracking System and a Kill Switch installed (Drone Mobile System GPS Tracking (app) and ALSO Lojack Installed for redundancy).

I have all of the original stock parts; included in sale if price is right. Car has around.48k miles on the engine.
All of these mods ran me around 25k installed (Paid 60k for it in 2015). TWO owner car. Owner before me put 5k miles on it. The Rest are mine. Put a nice new built short block on this one and you have a car that has a suspension that is capable of handling and putting down that power (not that the Griggs system I have is Drag purposed but it puts the power to the ground plenty nicely.

Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!!
Click to expand...


Even if you had to wait, are you sure you couldn't just go with an OEM low mileage replacement 5.8? We have a place here in Georgia thats all they do is "mustangs and Shelbys".

Motor run about $14,000 on a pallet.
 
Mulholland Man

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Since they don't make the Trinity Engines any longer, they are expensive. I have only seen replacement OEM motors (complete) for 37.5k, since they have been out of production for some time and are super scarce. When you say 5.8, are you talking about a used "Trinity" engine? That would be SUPER cheap.

I'm figuring that the value of the car with 48k miles (if the motor were in shape and not considering the mods) is at LEAST 50k if the motor was in good shape. Used cars have gone up 7.5% in value this year due to the shortage of Chips and cars overall. The cheapest 13-14' I found in a NATIONWIDE search was 46k and it had 80k miles+ on it. Plus I have all the mods. Cars with my mileage start generally around 50k stock. I figure the ideal buyer for my car will be a mechanic or DIY guy. If you do it yourself that cost is going to come down significantly.

Thank you for your feedback so far guys. Let me know if you have any more thoughts on the value or any questions regarding the car.

As always, your input is greatly appreciated.
 
SSSSSSSSSSSSVT

SSSSSSSSSSSSVT

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Mulholland Man said:
Since they don't make the Trinity Engines any longer, they are expensive. I have only seen replacement OEM motors (complete) for 37.5k, since they have been out of production for some time and are super scarce. When you say 5.8, are you talking about a used "Trinity" engine? That would be SUPER cheap.

I'm figuring that the value of the car with 48k miles (if the motor were in shape and not considering the mods) is at LEAST 50k if the motor was in good shape. Used cars have gone up 7.5% in value this year due to the shortage of Chips and cars overall. The cheapest 13-14' I found in a NATIONWIDE search was 46k and it had 80k miles+ on it. Plus I have all the mods. Cars with my mileage start generally around 50k stock. I figure the ideal buyer for my car will be a mechanic or DIY guy. If you do it yourself that cost is going to come down significantly.

Thank you for your feedback so far guys. Let me know if you have any more thoughts on the value or any questions regarding the car.

As always, your input is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Lol at comparing this junk to something that actually runs. Good luck.
 
ShelbyGT5HUN

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How would the bank know the motor is blown? I think it would be easy to get the loan, in fact you could probably get it written for $50k, pay OP 25k and keep 25k for a killer engine build. My bank has never seen any of my cars in person, over the years that I have had financing.

The only time you run into a bank not writing the loan is if you're paying over book value, then you need to come up with the cash.
 
Mulholland Man

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ShelbyGT5HUN said:
How would the bank know the motor is blown? I think it would be easy to get the loan, in fact you could probably get it written for $50k, pay OP 25k and keep 25k for a killer engine build. My bank has never seen any of my cars in person, over the years that I have had financing.

The only time you run into a bank not writing the loan is if you're paying over book value, then you need to come up with the cash.[/QUOTE

Thanks ShelbyGT... Kind of sucks when people call out your ride as "junk". It may not run without a new small block but, its anything but Junk. I will have the car up for sale in the "Market" forum in a few minutes for those who want to see more pictures. I know the motor is blown because my tuner scoped it and turned the engine over. Told me that one of the pistons on the passenger side bank, #3 I think, the rod broke. Said when it turned over he could tell that the crank bent when the rod busted. Looked under car and saw that I had punched a hole in the bottom of the block and you could see where oil leaked out and sprayed under the car.
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