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Ditto the sentiments on the RXT. I’ve had one in my car for years. On the track or road course, it’s fine. Hold the power and handles the abuse. Daily driving it? No way. I do not want to daily drive it or even occasionally drive it sitting in traffic with the hills I have going to work. Fine...

I figured it out. You don’t need to remove the steering rack. You just need to knock out the tie rod from the knuckle and you can get enough to rotate it out of the way. I spent a lot of time trying to remove that rack and then the oil cooler and mount. Ended up saying the heck with it and put...

hey guys, I’m in the process of replacing my drivers side a arm. I watched the video on how to do this on a regular mustang, but I’ve ran into a major issue. I can’t get the last steering rack bolt out on the drivers side. Removing or rotating the rack is required to remove the a arm bolt...

Yep, that’s who I always go through. Stock left side is $192. Not bad. Just wondering if aftermarket would be a better way to go. I have a late production 2010 so mine already has the 19mm joints. Edit: the $192 is the incorrect part and is for the 18mm 07-early 2010. $92 is the 19mm part for...

Took my car in today to a reputable speed shop that does road course cars to have a high speed wheel balance and alignment done. Car had been having a nasty vibration in the front left after getting new tires a couple months ago. Got a call from them and they said the bolt in my A arm was loose...

I’ll let others chime in on price as I’m not up to speed on the current market. Doesn’t seem to be that bad of a price to me. Only thing that stands out to me is how dirty the engine bay looks. Seems odd to be that dirty with that few of miles. Maybe the guy lived off a dirt road or something...

Good to know. I've got the rxt and it chatters on take off,chatters at 1500rpms when cruising in low gear, stiffer than stock by a lot and acts like an on/off switch. If/when I kill this, I'll do the centerforce next time.

They won't match. The 19's are all painted, the 18's are painted with a machined finish. I have the 18's for drag radials.

If you're on the stock tires still then they will need to be replaced. You shouldn't run tires more than 5 years. I have a 2010 and just had to replace my tires with only 10k miles on them. They were starting to dry rot.

Want to make them feel slow? Take them in some twisties.

^ This word for word. Check my sig.

I'd keep what you've got all day long. If you can swing it keep your car and buy the other for a daily. Of course the dealer wants the deal. Have you seen what gt500s are going for now?

Hard to really tell, but I had a car do something similar back in the day. Turned out to be a bad MAF.

Congrats. That's impressive.

Pulley and a tune will put a smile on your face over stock. Cost about $800. You'll need the tuner anyways for anything else you're doing and the pulley can transfer to a tvs later if you go that route. It's all relative and cumulative. The heat exchanger would be the next thing I'd get...

What did they charge in your area if you don't mind me asking?

I'm going to guess low coolant level. My F150 did the same thing recently and that was the fix.

$34-35k for that condition and mileage. Maybe a bit more. I'd list if for $37.5 and let them talk me down. I wouldn't sell it for less than $34k. Lots of cars out there with way more miles on them and questionable history asking mid $30's.

But we aren't spending $10k on a new block either.

Fyi the gt350 is a dog in comparison to the gt500. I know, I've driven the gt350 and own the gt500. The gt350 severely lacks low end torque. Maybe some 4.10's would fix that idk. Beautiful cars for sure. Like the looks, the brake setup and the interior. I just couldn't live with the engine.

Yeah I couldn't. In my opinion, the 13-14 would be the most preferred with the 5.8 and tvs. 11-12 with aluminum block is great, but were no faster than a 2010 in all honesty. 2010 is a bit of a bastard child, but new body style with iron block, upgraded I take, knock sensors, improved clutch...

I think it would depend on the mods done. Personally I would be hesitant to buy a modded car. If it's got some suspension stuff, larger heat exchanger, that kind of thing then that's fine. Blower swapped, yeah I wouldn't pay much for it.

I occasionally got the 1-2 grind. Changed to the JHR clutch line and it fixed it for me. I think it's a flow/release issue and timing on the synchros. Just my guess.

The 2010 is 540hp not 500hp. 2011/12 have a slightly larger exhaust, electric rack and pinion, and aluminum block which nets them 10 more hp. Honestly just go with what you can find the better deal on. Not much of a performance difference between those years honestly. Look for stock or close to...

Agreed. Total pita and I did mine on jack stands. I had to drop the k member a bit and jack up the front of the engine. If they would have just reversed the bell housing bolts it would be a different story. Why ford? Why? I could have my old gm t56 out in less than an hour including jacking...