04 Termi broken axle at drag strip orlando...

[MikesCobra]

Hey guys I ran my car last night, first pass was a 12.2, on the second pass during my burnout to warm up the tires, as I let the clutch out to spin the wheels the right rear axle @the CV joint pretty much exploded.

I am in need of some insight, on what BRAND of axle to replace it with.

The cheap advanced auto parts store one for $80 to get her moving again?
Or any aftermarket or genuine ford factory axle?

I would like to keep cost as reasonable as possible as its my daily driver and I just need her back on the road for now and eventually I will get a badass set of axles.

Any recommendations ? is this a job I can do with basic hand tools?

 

[sonicblew]

whats the info on tires you were on? launch technique? i would vote stock shafts to get her running again. I would stay away from wheel hop as much as possible since that seems to be the major killer on those shafts. If you run into wheel hop let out right away. People who try to drive thru it will find out how quick they can break. Im not sure what really happened with yours so I'm kinda throwing everything out on this advice.

FYI if you race much and have a strong clutch i would go to the MT et streets. the bias ply sidewall will eliminate the wheel hop and shock load on the stock half shafts.

Edit> yes you can do this with basic hand tools. Just take your time and follow the instructions others have posted in here and you'll be fine. you can find them in the terminator how to section. its really not that hard or a job. Make sure to use the proper tool to remove the tie rod ends! you can usually rent it at any parts store.

 

[MikesCobra]

whats the info on tires you were on? launch technique? i would vote stock shafts to get her running again. I would stay away from wheel hop as much as possible since that seems to be the major killer on those shafts. If you run into wheel hop let out right away. People who try to drive thru it will find out how quick they can break. Im not sure what really happened with yours so I'm kinda throwing everything out on this advice.

FYI if you race much and have a strong clutch i would go to the MT et streets. the bias ply sidewall will eliminate the wheel hop and shock load on the stock half shafts.

Edit> yes you can do this with basic hand tools. Just take your time and follow the instructions others have posted in here and you'll be fine. you can find them in the terminator how to section. its really not that hard or a job. Make sure to use the proper tool to remove the tie rod ends! you can usually rent it at any parts store.

I was on Toyo TQ drag radials... My launch technique was 2500 rpm with a decent let out of the clutch, I didnt slip the clutch but I also didnt dump the clutch and hammer it... The rear end had some "clicking" coming from it once in a couple weeks whenever I would be pulling into and out of a parking spot at a real low speed. I am assuming the mixture of quality tires and sticky track finally allowed that axle/cv joint to finally explode?

You are the second person to tell me about the tire bias ply on the MT ET streets... can some one expand on that further so i can have a better understand on what that is, and how it affects the rear end in a positive way? I was told by a bunch of people that these cars love drag radials in general to reduce wheel hop.....

On my first run and during both burnouts I HAD ZERO wheel hop .... the car hooked and it was a smooth ride.... I am guessing the part just finally failed?

 

[svt4me38]

This picture demonstrates what the bias ply, et streets or et drags do to absorb most of the "shock" that causes the shafts to snap.
http://db.tt/GVEvy1a9

 

[nextime]

Are you running a fully stock IRS bushings? This will guarantee your breakage happening.

 

[bad93svt]

He has ftbr kit & irs brace...

Bias ply. Period

 

[VirtualSVT]

That new track surface has been breaking a lot of people.

 

[svt4me38]

Are you running a fully stock IRS bushings? This will guarantee your breakage happening.

I don't know you or know how much you race these cars, but your statement comes off ignorant and lacking knowledge. Do some research, go to the track, and you'll see drag radials with a short, stiff sidewall and too much tire pressure is what kills halfshafts.

 

[svt4me38]

He has ftbr kit & irs brace...

Bias ply. Period

Had...... Lol. ;-)
I did have the above, but countless others have raced for years with stock bushings and a brace.
I'm not saying you can't break somethin with bias Plys, just saying they are easier on the drive train than drag radials.

 

[TBCobra]

The wrinkle from a bias ply tire will absorb a lot of the force put on the rear end. Drag radials I assume do not wrinkle at all leaving your rear end to take the full force.

 

[Wicked46]

Drag radials dont wrinkle?

 

[SignalZero]

No help as far as your post goes but I was there and your car looks tits! Very clean ride!

 

[MikesCobra]

Are you running a fully stock IRS bushings? This will guarantee your breakage happening.

NO all the bushings and toe end links have been changed to the FTBR bushings..

 

[MikesCobra]

No help as far as your post goes but I was there and your car looks tits! Very clean ride!

Thanks A lot.. it has been cared for with many endless hours of polishing and sealants with waxes.... but it pays off... :coolman:

 

[MikesCobra]

No help as far as your post goes but I was there and your car looks tits! Very clean ride!

Drag radials dont wrinkle?

I was thinking the same thing.. I am sure the thinner the side wall the tire the less wrinkle you get ... but never really thought having a drag radial vs a slick would BREAK something.... to be honest I have suspicions with the periodic clicking sound that came from the rear end.. it was just a matter of time... the drag radials just expedited it.

 

[Wicked46]

You could be right. If you plan on racing it on a regular basis, I would look at upgrading the half shafts. Since you have all the FTBR bushings, your better off keeping the IRS vs going with a SRA. If your car is just an occasional track car, I would put another OEM style half shaft in and let it ride.
I think I remember meeting you at OSW once before. I remember the car and how clean it was! We'll be out there Friday night with a Fox Body race car and i'll be helping a few friends out so I won't have my car.

 

[SuperSport01]

OEM axle is the way to go. The axle swap is pretty easy with the hardest part being the axle nut and the heavy/awkward knuckle.

 

[MikesCobra]

OEM axle is the way to go. The axle swap is pretty easy with the hardest part being the axle nut and the heavy/awkward knuckle.

For furture reference (because I was considering doing it myself) how does the axle come out and go into the rear end? Just by pushing and prying? or is there some sort of retainer clip or item needing to be taken off? I will do it myself next time for sure....

You could be right. If you plan on racing it on a regular basis, I would look at upgrading the half shafts. Since you have all the FTBR bushings, your better off keeping the IRS vs going with a SRA. If your car is just an occasional track car, I would put another OEM style half shaft in and let it ride.
I think I remember meeting you at OSW once before. I remember the car and how clean it was! We'll be out there Friday night with a Fox Body race car and i'll be helping a few friends out so I won't have my car.

Yeah after this experience I wont race it a lot until I get a daily driver, I will go with the ford axle as the opportunity cost for an upgraded axle is more then Id like to incur at this point.
Thank you for the kind words on the car, it sure does take alot of sweat, elbow grease and long walks from the parking lots empty abyss to avoid door dings and keep the paint up to snuff.

 

[Senkak]

For furture reference (because I was considering doing it myself) how does the axle come out and go into the rear end? Just by pushing and prying? or is there some sort of retainer clip or item needing to be taken off? I will do it myself next time for sure....



Yeah after this experience I wont race it a lot until I get a daily driver, I will go with the ford axle as the opportunity cost for an upgraded axle is more then Id like to incur at this point.
Thank you for the kind words on the car, it sure does take alot of sweat, elbow grease and long walks from the parking lots empty abyss to avoid door dings and keep the paint up to snuff.

I disagree about the aftermarket axles.
Get some cheap 15" wheels and bias ply drag tires and you should be good.
I used to launch on slicks and spray running mid 10s and getting low 1.5x 60' times and never broke an axle.

There is a good write up in the tech section as to how to remove a HS.
It isn't hard to do.

 

[MikesCobra]

I disagree about the aftermarket axles.
Get some cheap 15" wheels and bias ply drag tires and you should be good.
I used to launch on slicks and spray running mid 10s and getting low 1.5x 60' times and never broke an axle.

There is a good write up in the tech section as to how to remove a HS.
It isn't hard to do.

:coolman: