1,000 rwhp

[MikeHoncho]

30K + and you better start right now. E85 for sure.

This is a good start, but it'll be more unless you're doing a lot of the work. I think the Boss or Shelby will be around the same cost in the end.

With all the street driving you want to do, and all the pump gas, the 4.7 is going to be too big. Go with the 3.6.

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

This is a good start, but it'll be more unless you're doing a lot of the work. I think the Boss or Shelby will be around the same cost in the end.

With all the street driving you want to do, and all the pump gas, the 4.7 is going to be too big. Go with the 3.6.

Good points here. For the street and pump gas you really should consider the 3.6 with the built motor. Target should be 17/18 PSI on 93 Pump with the 10% OD Crank Damper and a 4" Upper Pulley on the 3.6 in conjunction with ported heads, cams and headers.

Plenty of guys like MikeHoncho have a 3.6 and then pulley down for additional boost and make 1000+ RWHP on the 3.6 just have to support it with Octane.

The auto swap conversion runs around $16,000

Good luck with your build.

 

[my13Elenor]

i know a few friends that have a 85 and 93 tune at the ready but not sure how that works. For example while on a road trip if i have 1/4 of a tank of gas of e85 do i need to let the car run dry at gas station then load new tune for 93 and fill up or vice versa...

From what I understand a sensor is installed that communicates with the ECU, it monitors the fuel content ( 93, E-85 etc) and self adjusts accordingly, you would not need to let the tank run dry,,

 

[TVS VERT]

My 6R80 swap cost me $8000ish not even close to 16K but that's doing all my own labour which wasn't a picnic let me tell ya, I'm assuming when you say 16k you mean drop off to shop and come back in a couple weeks to pick up with a credit card in hand , so yeah I can see it being 14-15K but 16K would be Tops

 

[Bad Company]

From what I understand a sensor is installed that communicates with the ECU, it monitors the fuel content ( 93, E-85 etc) and self adjusts accordingly, you would not need to let the tank run dry,,

That sensor isn't hooked to the stock electronics. You have to have a secondary Engine Control Module(computer) such as ProEFI or Motec along with your stock PMC piggybacked to have a true dual fuel system on these cars.

 

[my13Elenor]

My 6R80 swap cost me $8000ish not even close to 16K but that's doing all my own labour which wasn't a picnic let me tell ya, I'm assuming when you say 16k you mean drop off to shop and come back in a couple weeks to pick up with a credit card in hand , so yeah I can see it being 14-15K but 16K would be Tops

I was quoted 10-12k from Power by the Hour

 

[my13Elenor]

That sensor isn't hooked to the stock electronics. You have to have a secondary Engine Control Module(computer) such as ProEFI or Motec along with your stock PMC piggybacked to have a true dual fuel system on these cars.

Ok, but it is possible, good to know!

 

[72SBC]

I'd build the Boss. Smaller higher reving engine with a turbo.Turn the boost down or up on demand. Rpm = power. If you want a blower car I'd build the gt500, bigger cube, big blower instant tq, muscle car feel. The Boss will have less strain and would probably last a lot longer, I'd go turbo Boss for a auto car that I want to cruise around and make good passes with. Not to mention better mpg and less breakage on driveline parts.

 

[HighTorque]

I would use a 3.6 LC KB, I'm already on my way to this goal. I'll make a stop @ 850 wheel and have a 1000 whp max. Stay tuned for make it or break it live. Remember.....I'll leave you with this one thought, there is no warranty in performance.

Yeah I know no warranty when going fast LOL

I'm shooting for a 1000hp in my car also, that's half the reason I bought a 3.6KB. I'm either going to have Livernois or JDM Engineering build my engine. But I'm keeping my 6 speed, especially since im setting my car up for 1/2 mile and 1 mile runs. Now for everything it sounds like you want I would sell the Shelby and buy a 2013 GT with a auto. You will probably save money in the long run. I know 6r80 swaps in GT500s aren't cheap.

Its good to know a 3.6 is big enough to get me to 1k. What about a 4.0 whipple? Also I want to build motor before mods begin just to be on safe side.

Good points here. For the street and pump gas you really should consider the 3.6 with the built motor. Target should be 17/18 PSI on 93 Pump with the 10% OD Crank Damper and a 4" Upper Pulley on the 3.6 in conjunction with ported heads, cams and headers.

Plenty of guys like MikeHoncho have a 3.6 and then pulley down for additional boost and make 1000+ RWHP on the 3.6 just have to support it with Octane.

The auto swap conversion runs around $16,000

Good luck with your build.

So no including auto swap how much do you see me spending to get to my goal? Also Would a 4.0 whipple also be to big? When you say support with octane would 93 not be enough? What octane do you recommend to be driving 1k regularly?

On a street driven car the 4.7L SC is too big. It will actually hurt low end throttle response considerably in the lower RPM range of the engine.

On a 5.0 or 5.8L I wouldn't go above a 3.6L SC on a street car on pump 93, unless you're planning on doing massive amounts of modifications to reduce boost while spinning the SC at speeds to keep it efficient. These types of mods to reduce boost while maintaining high enough SC speeds for efficiency add up to more money then you can imagine very quickly.

CNC ported heads and intake manifold

Big tube headers

Bigger intercooler

Modify manifold to flow more air through the bigger intercooler

Cams and all the corresponding parts in the valve train

Big Ford GT timing chain set.

The list goes on and on.

From what little you posted I can see you easily spending $50K for the mods you want with a GT500 to meet your goals

With a Boss I think you'll be extremely close to the same costs

Keeping the Gt500 seems like the route to go then.

 

[HighTorque]

I appreciate all the input and advice guys :beer:

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

I appreciate all the input and advice guys :beer:

Whipple 4.0 or KB 3.6 at 1,000 RWHP the only pump fuel you can use to support that is going to be E-85. If you needed to use 93 you would want to lower your boost to 17-18 PSI and not worry about what horsepower it makes at low boost and 93.

 

[HighTorque]

Whipple 4.0 or KB 3.6 at 1,000 RWHP the only pump fuel you can use to support that is going to be E-85. If you needed to use 93 you would want to lower your boost to 17-18 PSI and not worry about what horsepower it makes at low boost and 93.

So at 17psi on 93 what power am I looking at to the wheels?

 

[72SBC]

Every car is different, I'd guess 800whp minimum

 

[HighTorque]

Every car is different, I'd guess 800whp minimum

WOW 200 hp gain with E85

 

[2011 gtcs]

WOW 200 hp gain with E85

You can usually increase overall advance timing by 5 to 7 degrees and jump up the boost. It's almost impossible to detonate/knock on E85. I'm still deciding if I want to go to E85

 

[HighTorque]

You can usually increase overall advance timing by 5 to 7 degrees and jump up the boost. It's almost impossible to detonate/knock on E85. I'm still deciding if I want to go to E85

I just wish it was as available as 93

 

[wakebum2507]

i've been lurking on this thread, so i'm going to step in for the coyote boys and give you my two cents.

Shelby's are very cool. but for the money, a coyote can be built for way cheaper.

i've gone thru stages with my car:

bought it to beat my dads vette. put a paxton 2200 head on it, fore fuel sys, e 85, stock motor. no torque, got walked by a TVS car. sold the paxton.

bought a turbo kit, a t56 magnum XL, and built motor with stock sleeves. best decision ever. revs to 7500 on stock cams, and made 1087WHP at 18 lbs of boost.

sold the T56 mag, bought a PBH built 6R80, MPR sleeved short block, and bigger turbo. going full retard now.

if you were to buy a mustang, or even a 13' boss....for say...30K...here's what you'll spend to make 1000:

6K for a new, built coyote short block WITH supports. these motors have made 1100-1200 RWHP and held. one recently went 8.43 @ 165.

i paid 4500 for my auto swap including everything i needed. if you bought an auto GT, this is half that, cuz you're just paying for clutches and billet input.

some labor here and there for someone to swap short blocks for you.

supporting mods, and prob 2000 in fuel system to support E85/95/C16/c85, etc. i don't see you making 1000 reliably on pump 93.

then 6-8K in a turbo kit.

to recap:

turbo kit (7k), motor (6K), trans build cost (?), and labor.

and since you're in DFW, you're close to OKC. a guy here in okc runs a shop, does all my work, and is very very affordable. almost too affordable (makes me want to keep building).

 

[HighTorque]

i've been lurking on this thread, so i'm going to step in for the coyote boys and give you my two cents.

Shelby's are very cool. but for the money, a coyote can be built for way cheaper.

i've gone thru stages with my car:

bought it to beat my dads vette. put a paxton 2200 head on it, fore fuel sys, e 85, stock motor. no torque, got walked by a TVS car. sold the paxton.

bought a turbo kit, a t56 magnum XL, and built motor with stock sleeves. best decision ever. revs to 7500 on stock cams, and made 1087WHP at 18 lbs of boost.

sold the T56 mag, bought a PBH built 6R80, MPR sleeved short block, and bigger turbo. going full retard now.

if you were to buy a mustang, or even a 13' boss....for say...30K...here's what you'll spend to make 1000:

6K for a new, built coyote short block WITH supports. these motors have made 1100-1200 RWHP and held. one recently went 8.43 @ 165.

i paid 4500 for my auto swap including everything i needed. if you bought an auto GT, this is half that, cuz you're just paying for clutches and billet input.

some labor here and there for someone to swap short blocks for you.

supporting mods, and prob 2000 in fuel system to support E85/95/C16/c85, etc. i don't see you making 1000 reliably on pump 93.

then 6-8K in a turbo kit.

to recap:

turbo kit (7k), motor (6K), trans build cost (?), and labor.

and since you're in DFW, you're close to OKC. a guy here in okc runs a shop, does all my work, and is very very affordable. almost too affordable (makes me want to keep building).

Man you make it sound so easy LOL
Sounds like your car is a monster and doesn't seem to bad money wise to get there.
Im thinking if I do get rid of the Shelby an auto 5.0 would be best bang for my buck based on everyones input.

 

[wakebum2507]

i mean, an auto 5.0 + built short block, stock heads + turbo kit will make 850 on stock 6r80 and hold. build the trans and make 1100.

someone whos mechanically inclined can install a fuel system, and all your bolt ons. at that point, you just pay someone to swap short blocks, then go roll up some 1000hp shelbys.

 

[HighTorque]

i mean, an auto 5.0 + built short block, stock heads + turbo kit will make 850 on stock 6r80 and hold. build the trans and make 1100.

someone whos mechanically inclined can install a fuel system, and all your bolt ons. at that point, you just pay someone to swap short blocks, then go roll up some 1000hp shelbys.

Im fairly confident mechanically speaking and have worked as a technician for Mercedes for several years now. My biggest issue is I don't have the space to do the work myself especially when it comes to pulling the motor. I can handle most of the bolt on "weekend" jobs but would need outside help for heavy line work.