13.7 @ 101mph 1.9 60'

misterb

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on your first post did you guess your HP?

with your mods i hope there was a tune involved. just sayin cause something is a miss with that good of a 60ft.

best i was able to get in the 1993 was a 2.1 and it was [email protected]. i am just metioning this cause i think there is alot more left in your setup.

No- it's been on the dyno, and the ET Calculator matched up, too.

I can't get better than 1.9 60' because of trying to launch with Eibach lowering springs with stock suspension and not being able to heat up the Nitto DR tires good- no line lock. I could get it lower- into the 12's easy, but it's a moot point because the set up now will not see the track again.
 

WillyBob98

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"With fluids and a new/resurfaced flywheel that's what- around $800 MINIMUM, but at least you were 5 tenths and 2mph faster.

Please post up when you throw a rod or spin a bearing, too! "



are you serious? Where at in the vid did you hear me do any harm on my motor, and what makes you think I will throw a rod bearing just shifting my car without hitting rev limiter? I actually do not even rev it all the way to red line because I know where my power peaks, something you should learn about your car. And Actually its about $400-500 for a rebuilt t-45 and $185 for a clutch and it helps I can do it my self. Dude these cars are made to be driven. Its got 80k miles on it, it would be due for a tranny soon anyway. By me saying I powershifted and need a new tranny and clutch I was trying to make light of the situation for you. By the way, my 13.2 run was the only time I powershifted my car. And to clear up the confusion, in that video that was just normal speed shifting letting off the gas to shift, you should try it sometime. That kid in my video was telling me I should powershift, therefore, I was not powershifting it. I wasnt asking for a pissing competition, if you cant take constructive critisizm then why post a 13.7 run with a built motor like yours? And if I recall, my run was 4 mph faster. Didnt I see you trying to sell your car a couple months ago? Now I know why.
 
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STAMPEDE3

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No- it's been on the dyno, and the ET Calculator matched up, too.

I can't get better than 1.9 60' because of trying to launch with Eibach lowering springs with stock suspension and not being able to heat up the Nitto DR tires good- no line lock. I could get it lower- into the 12's easy, but it's a moot point because the set up now will not see the track again.

I'm gonna have to go with the majority here.
1.9 60' with your set up you should easily be bottom 13s if not high 12s.

Same springs and suspension I went 13.20@106 with 1.8 60' on street tires with 282RWHP.
 

Posi

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Here's the thing I think everybody is wondering about. Why do the 5.0 Stroker and the other mod's is you aren't going to be worried at all about your times? That's basically it, everyone wants to know what the car can do and want you to get more excitement out of your mod's. Get some tires and drive it like you stole it. If you did that then you might not need the NOS. Or with the NOS you'd easily be in the 11's after you get it on the car.


Just a for instance. If you had good DR's or slicks and that car ran what it could it would probably run 12.50's at least! And I do mean at least!
 
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misterb

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I wasnt asking for a pissing competition, if you cant take constructive critisizm then why post a 13.7 run with a built motor like yours? And if I recall, my run was 4 mph faster. Didnt I see you trying to sell your car a couple months ago? Now I know why.

I was trying to sell the car, but I decided to keep it and have fun with it. But that's my business- not yours.

The cars I was with at the ATCO rental *averaged* 9.9's @ 136... so what's the point? There are always cars that are FAST and others that aren't as fast.

Actually.. most Cobra's are inherently slower than most Camaro's, GTO's and Firebirds- so what?

My previous car went 11.1 @ 127 with 1.46 60'- so what?

You run a 13.2 and think you're god because you powershifted the car? Pathetic.
 

Stangcharger

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No- it's been on the dyno, and the ET Calculator matched up, too.

I can't get better than 1.9 60' because of trying to launch with Eibach lowering springs with stock suspension and not being able to heat up the Nitto DR tires good- no line lock. I could get it lower- into the 12's easy, but it's a moot point because the set up now will not see the track again.

just curious what you dynoed for the et calculater to match up. it would have to be a dyno of like 270rwhp or less to match.

you mentioned bettering your 60ft would make a better time. what i am saying is your 60ft time is great but your time doesnt reflect it.

and your trap of 101mph is also the thing, that would only place your car in the mid 13's if anything.

people are trying to say something is up not trying to dog you. cause with that 60ft id think 12's even shifting normally.
 

misterb

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just curious what you dynoed for the et calculater to match up. it would have to be a dyno of like 270rwhp or less to match.

you mentioned bettering your 60ft would make a better time. what i am saying is your 60ft time is great but your time doesnt reflect it.

and your trap of 101mph is also the thing, that would only place your car in the mid 13's if anything.

people are trying to say something is up not trying to dog you. cause with that 60ft id think 12's even shifting normally.

Car dyno'ed at 317hp (Mustang Dyno) and the et calc was 3700lb, 13.7 = 320hp. Car would break loose right after the 60' as I rolled it out, and dyno showed that it was loosing up top due to the intake.

Car has a lot left.. but it will do it next year with an C4 Auto and N20.. and a real tire. And whatever it runs, it won't posted here- because.. like I said before.. everybody here has gone faster, harder, quicker, cheaper, nicer, shinier, blah-blah-blah.
 

misterb

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not bad misterb

nice 60

was that on street tires?

Might as well have been.. actually, 315/17" Nitto DR's.

They have to be smoked to death before they hook.. I never got to install the line-lok but whatever..

Now here's a gentleman- didn't say "I ran a 13.2.."
 

98ABcobra

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Might as well have been.. actually, 315/17" Nitto DR's.

They have to be smoked to death before they hook.. I never got to install the line-lok but whatever..

Now here's a gentleman- didn't say "I ran a 13.2.."

damn, i think that may be part of the problem right there. even with 4:10's a 315DR is a whole hella of a lot of tire to turn man. i have m/t 275 drags and that is plenty enough tire. i have full exhaust,intake,gears,tuner and my best was a 13.05 at 107 with a 1.91 60ft. Then i went 13.10 at 108 with a 2.15 60ft. I know my car has mid 12's in it cutting 1.7 60ft times you can be deep in the 12's. What are you launching at? Are you slipping or dumping the clutch? I shift at about 6100. My point is try different things and maybe a smaller tire. It may help.
 

WillyBob98

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I was trying to sell the car, but I decided to keep it and have fun with it. But that's my business- not yours.

The cars I was with at the ATCO rental *averaged* 9.9's @ 136... so what's the point? There are always cars that are FAST and others that aren't as fast.

Actually.. most Cobra's are inherently slower than most Camaro's, GTO's and Firebirds- so what?

My previous car went 11.1 @ 127 with 1.46 60'- so what?

You run a 13.2 and think you're god because you powershifted the car? Pathetic.


Ok, where did I say I thought I was god. I was just making reference of a relatively stock cobra running a better time then your built motor cobra. And by saying I powershifted my car just ment that I wouldnt have pulled that time if I didnt powershift, so I actually ment that if I didnt powershift our cars would be about the same speed. I was saying powershifting was an advantage, thats all. And how can you sit there and be rude enough to quote me saying "at least you didnt say you ran 13.2" to other responders. If you read my first post I dont think I was being an ass at all, not as much as others anyway. You should just be conserned about you only trapping 101 with a 5.0 modular stroker with cams is all im saying. And if its none of our business about selling your car then dont advertise it on here when anyone can see your thread. And when did I ask you about what other cars ran at atco, and when did I say my car was even fast? 13's are not even quick anymore and I know this. I bet if those guys that were running at atco knew that you had a more built motor then some of them running in the 12's, they would be confused as well. Oh, and im glad to see I shut you up about you talking trash that im going to blow my car up for powershifting ONE time. I dont know where you got that, how would I blow my motor for powershifting, it makes no sense. In my video I was shifting normal too, not powershifting and it seemed to run fine even though I powershifted my car ONCE earlier this year. Botttom line, your car should be faster. Dont whine like a little bitch when people make reference of other cars (that should be slower then yours) that run quicker in the 1/4.
 
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WillyBob98

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Car dyno'ed at 317hp (Mustang Dyno) and the et calc was 3700lb, 13.7 = 320hp. Car would break loose right after the 60' as I rolled it out, and dyno showed that it was loosing up top due to the intake.

Car has a lot left.. but it will do it next year with an C4 Auto and N20.. and a real tire. And whatever it runs, it won't posted here- because.. like I said before.. everybody here has gone faster, harder, quicker, cheaper, nicer, shinier, blah-blah-blah.

I think people would have understood more if you just explained that it was a baseline run before nitrous. And according to a 1/4 mile calculator you should be running 13.2 with 317RWHP at 3700lbs. How is your car that heavy, thats your greatest problem. You must have calculated it with flywheel hp though. See for yourself.....

http://robrobinette.com/et.htm
 
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WillyBob98

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Now here's a gentleman- didn't say "I ran a 13.2"

Your the one who asked me what I ran, I did not say nothing about what my car ran in my first post......

ummmm am I missing something. A 5.0 stroker with cams and 410's only running 13.7 and only trapping 101mph? And I dont know about 13.7 with 3700lbs = 320rwhp?


Your the one who asked......

The ET calculator and dyno sheet I have appear to agree- unless you know something I don't.

What do you run with your 1998 Cobra?

My response....

^^Not being rude man, just saying there is something not right. Of course people are going to bust your chops when you post that you ran slower with a camed stroker then most do with stock block and minor bolt ons. We are just saying your car has more potential, thats all (insert beer smiley but not working lolol).

"What do you run with your 1998 Cobra?"

13.2 @ 105 with what I have in sig and powershifting the guts out of it, I do not recomend that though, I need a clutch and tranny now lol. Oh well, they are ment to be driven (insert rockon smiley, still not working lol)



I thought I was being pretty cool about it too? And actually the link I provided with the other calculator suggests you should run 13.2 at 3700lbs with 317rwhp. You must have calculated with flywheel hp
 
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red9450

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I'm going to have to go with the majority here. Not going to tell you what I ran, but with you're mods, I would have been very dissapointed to go 13.7@101. How does the car run? Does it die off in the upper end? I guess what my question is, are you happy with it and the performance, or was the post to find out if something is wrong with the car. If you're happy with that, good. Congrats on the time. got a nice looking car there, and i'm sure you have a lot of extra low end grunt with the stroker in there. What are you're thoughts on the stroker performance vs. the car stock?
 

misterb

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When I got this car it was DEAD- spun bearing.

I saved this car from being parted out and crushed.

Now- to hear it rumble down the highway is a great feeling. Most of the work I did myself, and plan to continue that. What I'm getting at is that it's a 100% improvement when I turn the key and it cranks over. I've been working on issues as I have been running the car.. 14.2, 14.0, 13.9, and now 13.7 without eliminating all of the issues.

Winter is here, and I will fully address the remaining issues and make the needed mod's to get the car into the 11's easily. Just the research on making the right choice for transmission and converter is an effort, not to mention a N20 kit.

As for this being a "built" motor, it's being forged has NO impact on anything except for durability.. the 10 extra cubes and cam's are negated up top because of the IMRC delete and stock manifold's design are hindering the powerband- it's obvious on the dyno print out. I can't launch because I spin (added tq) and if I come out easy it bogs. Tires also break loose in right after the 60' if you don't peddle it. Powershifting the T-45 isn't the answer, all that will do is kill the already tired T-45. If I trailered the car then I would have been a bit harder, but it's a long way home when you race your daily driver.

These runs were simply just shakedown runs.. I learned a lot, but unlike lots of folks who only post SUPER timeslips- I post the bad with the good. For example- car prefers NGK TR-55's over Autolite 764's and Iridium plugs.. that change alone is worth 2mph at the track. Why? I don't know.. Car doesn't transfer weight back due to swaybar in and Eibach lowering springs.. I have stockers ready to go in. On and on.

I'm a bit annoyed after all my work and someone say's "you should be 5 tenths of a second faster" or "you should trap 105mph" or idiocy like that.

Bottom line- I enjoy the car, and will refine it.. learning (tuning, suspension, drivetrain) as I go along. 11's next year and driving home from the track- my goal.
 

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