4/6 drop, 3'' cowl hood, and two sets of hids....
$1600 to spend, whats left for me to buy?
- Thread starter Jeff_Svt22
- Start date
What converter would you guys recommend and where is the best place to buy one from???
Valvebody, Converter, and 4.10s
hahaha i knew you'd be interested, my plane lands tomorrow around noonish!!! jk
hmm, since i feel like i need to contribute to this tread, im gonna say get a nice set of headers. Or just keep saving for something more $$$.
hmm, since i feel like i need to contribute to this tread, im gonna say get a nice set of headers. Or just keep saving for something more $$$.
anybody have any vids of a Lightning with the JLP competition R exhaust system?
ftvb
torque converter
heat exchanger
plenum
cai
killer chiller
LT's
gauges......you still got lots you can do :beer:
torque converter
heat exchanger
plenum
cai
killer chiller
LT's
gauges......you still got lots you can do :beer:
Converter, VB, and a 75 shot.
Headers are a waste until you go built.
Why do people continue to suggest them?
And the motor can't take much more and still be on the safe side, so why are people suggesting adding power to it?
Unless you're going to build the bottom-end you should leave the motor alone and add mods which help the motor to get the truck moving easier. A set of 4.10s will put 10% more power to the ground compared to 3.73s This also means better MPG around town do to less effort.
The transmission has yet to be addressed and a valvebody is $200. We are all aware how sloppy the stock shifts are. When we put a valvebody in most of us claim we wish the valvebody had been our first mod. Why this guy has modded this far without getting a valvebody is beyond me, but if you don't have one then you don't know what you're missing. It's the best mod for your dollar. End of story. And it only takes 30 minutes to install yourself.
The converter helps by multiplying the power presented to the transmission.
Why do people continue to suggest them?
And the motor can't take much more and still be on the safe side, so why are people suggesting adding power to it?
Unless you're going to build the bottom-end you should leave the motor alone and add mods which help the motor to get the truck moving easier. A set of 4.10s will put 10% more power to the ground compared to 3.73s This also means better MPG around town do to less effort.
The transmission has yet to be addressed and a valvebody is $200. We are all aware how sloppy the stock shifts are. When we put a valvebody in most of us claim we wish the valvebody had been our first mod. Why this guy has modded this far without getting a valvebody is beyond me, but if you don't have one then you don't know what you're missing. It's the best mod for your dollar. End of story. And it only takes 30 minutes to install yourself.
The converter helps by multiplying the power presented to the transmission.
Here you go, Bob has some clips on post #25
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2nd-generation-22/559571-jlp-competition-r-exhaust.html
In hind-sight I recommend saving the funds and putting it towards a built motor. In the beginning had I known where my addiction would lead I would have gone built right out of the box so I would have a solid foundation. I believe in function before style so like you I tackled the appearance mods after I already had all the go-faster goodies.
To answer your question:
- Valve body
- Killer Chiller
- Wideband A/F gauge
- Fuel pressure gauge
- AeroForce Interceptor
- Hotchkis rear leafs/cut one coil off the OEM front springs
To answer your question:
- Valve body
- Killer Chiller
- Wideband A/F gauge
- Fuel pressure gauge
- AeroForce Interceptor
- Hotchkis rear leafs/cut one coil off the OEM front springs
SVTL Joe Joe
Banned
i think the widebands your best bet on anything really. your going to need it one day no matter what i just wish i had the cash layin around for it right now
The AeroForce Interceptor gauge can be a wideband a/f gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. If it was me, I'd get the AeroForce Interceptor gauge.
I thought about mentioning this as well, but it boils down to personal preference. Two Interceptor gauges can monitor almost every crucial parameter, prevent gauge overkill and cost less to boot. I love my Interceptor but I like being able to read my A/F and fuel pressure at a glance regardless if I'm DD'ing or at the track. The split screen of the Interceptor makes this more difficult IMO. I love my set-up... Auto Meter Phantom Series wideband and fuel pressure gauges which are very easy to read even at a glance with the Interceptor allowing me to view several other parameters.
4.10's
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