2011 GT500 91 octane limited.......help get me the most rwhp

[Neil1b]

Hello all from AZ


I got a 2011 GT500

Current mods:

127mm JLT
2.6 pulley stock blower
Roush axle back
VMP twin 67 TB
VmP mail order tune

I do not want to run an octane booster nor can i do e85 as there are only a few aroung here.

What mods/blower upgrades do you all suggest and what is a realistic number i can get on 91 octane?

Thanks for you insight

Neil

 

[Willie]

Budget?
Goals?
Do you race? What kind?
Where are you?

 

[CD07GT500]

Gen 2 VMP TVS, 2.6 upper. 2" headers 3.5" x-pipe. CJ mono blade, 8+ heat range plugs, Injectors. That's what I would do on 91 for best results IMO. There are cheaper routes but you won't make as much power.

 

[COOL COBRA]

Or change your mind & buy a case of Torco.

 

[Klaus]

port that blower, smaller pulley, TB, headers. cams if you have the money.

 

[96gt02]

Depends on your budget but if it unlimited you can probably get to around 700 RWHP on 91, you just need a really efficient blower and exhaust setup with all the supporting mods

 

[Neil1b]

UPDATE********NEED HELP!!

picking up a tvs 2.3 from a 13-14 to put on my 2011.

Question.........with only a 91 octane VMP tune what pully can i get?

2.4 or 2.5?

Mind you i have the 56# injectors and do not have a boost a pump.

Called sales two diff times and got 2 diff answers.

Also what belt can i run if i have the metco 90mm idler? Can i use my stock 2011 belt still?


Thanks in advance

 

[Klaus]

UPDATE********NEED HELP!!

picking up a tvs 2.3 from a 13-14 to put on my 2011.

Question.........with only a 91 octane VMP tune what pully can i get?

2.4 or 2.5?

Mind you i have the 56# injectors and do not have a boost a pump.

Called sales two diff times and got 2 diff answers.

Also what belt can i run if i have the metco 90mm idler? Can i use my stock 2011 belt still?


Thanks in advance

2.4 w/ headers 2.5 w/o

 

[Neil1b]

2.4 w/ headers 2.5 w/o

Ok,

What if headers are in the plans for 2-3 months out?


2.5 now and 2.4 with headers?

Too dangerous for 2.4 right now?

Thanks Klaus

 

[96gt02]

If you dont have a boost a pump your not going to be able to do anything other then a stock trinity pulley (2.67) safely, You might be able to get away with a 2.5 but why risk going lean and blowing your motor for what $400 worth of parts. and if you planning on running a 2.4 you will most likely need larger injectors as it can get sketchy higher rpm with the 13/14s on a 2.4 (without headers) and no doubt you'll need a booster. And as far as the belt, as long as your stock 11 one is in good shape you should be fine with just the 90mm idler for anything 2.5 and up. For a 2.4 Id personally get a 13/14 belt just so its a little more snug since a 2.4 is not a whole lot of pulley to grab.

 

[merkyworks]

Without headers a 2.4 pulley will have to much exhaust back pressure. You will want to get a retune when you do LT's anyway so just run the 2.5 pulley/tune for now then when your ready for LT's put the 2.4 pulley on and get that combo tuned. Or just wait 2-3 months and install it all at once.

 

[HillbillyHotRod]

With that larger injectors and a bap for safety. You can run a 2.4 without headers. I do.

 

[Sielmo]

I was running a TVS with a 2.4" pulley and 52lb injectors. I was a tad lean above 5500rpm therefore, switched to ID1000. No BAPs and well within the margins and generating 660whp. When I went the cam route and was pushing above 750whp, then BAPS were required. All that said, I have the 5.4L motor so I don't know if there is a different recommendation for the 5.8L folks.

 

[VNMOUS1]

Ask your tuner

Sent from my SM-N950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[Neil1b]

Yep......did just that.


Said 2.4 or 2.5 will both be ok, booster pump is just for added insurance



Thanks everyone

 

[1Kona_Venom]

Yep......did just that.


Said 2.4 or 2.5 will both be ok, booster pump is just for added insurance



Thanks everyone

you gonna get the Booster Pump?

 

[Neil1b]

I will as soon as i can. Hoping to come across a used one here for sale. If not, ill get one in the next month or so

 

[medeiros]

I have a 2.4 and a trinity and my boost is at 19Ibs no headers. so I believe it would be wise for the headers. Getting headers this spring.

Sent from my SM-G955W using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[Neil1b]

Are you on 91?

I have headers on the list......already have kooks green catted pipes nib in the garage(deal on ebay).

Any advise running the 2.4 and booster on 91 until i get the headers?

 

[PistolWhip]

I’m tuned to be safe on 91, but can get 93 usually so that’s what I try to run. My car made 720 RWHP with the current tune with the following mods:
Trinity TVS (ported by 1320 Junkey) w/ BPS elbow, 2.4 pulley, 13/14 injectors, JLT 123 MAF, KB boost-a-pump, Kooks long tubes, O/R 3” Kooks mid pipe, 3” cat back, FRPP 65mm TB and proper cooling mods.

I was on the edge of the injectors duty cycle limit at that level and have since upgraded to ID1000’s and a DD149mm MAF, which gave me much more head room and way better driving mannerisms. The boost-a-pump was absolutely needed in my case when I had the 13/14 injectors as I was out of fuel in the 5200-5500 RPM range without it. I don’t know enough about the tuning process to say wheather I’d have needed the BAP with the ID1000’s but I obviously kept it for the added insurance. With my current set up, the 65mm TB is the restriction and is holding me back quite a bit, but fuel is well under the safe level and octane has not come up as an issue in my environment. My car, before the injectors and MAF upgrade, made 740 with one of the original BPS 72mm TB’s, but the drive ability off the dyno was terrible and the car was constantly going into safe mode. I ended up going back to the 65 until a better worthwhile option becomes available. I’m pondering the VMP 67, but I’m not sure if it’s really worth it over the 65 at this point.

Your tuner should know best, but I don’t know of any 07-10 GT500’s making that kind of power without at least a BAP. I believe the 11+ 500’s have a little more head room due to the FPDM having a built in “sort of” BAP that can increase voltage a little to keep you safe to a degree.