AC not blowing cold air.

Bdubbs

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So I don't use the AC often, and when I do the windows are down . I would normally run it once in a while Just to run it.


Last summer it stopped blowing cold air. First time since I bought it back in 2010.

Is it fine if I just leave it, and still cycle it once in awhile so the seals don't dry out? I've never had luck when I try using a recharge kit.

Thanks

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CobraBob

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If you use it even occasionally and need cool air at those times, you should get the issue fixed, vs. ignoring it. JMO Brady.
 

01yellercobra

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Chances are if it's not blowing cold the compressor isn't cycling. So turning it on isn't doing anything. I'd try jumping the pressure switch just to see if the compressor turns on. It might just need a new switch.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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youve got enough vehicles to justify an actual set of gauges from harbor freight or somewhere. On mine it's been leaking from the valve in each port (low and high side). I can top it back off and it lasts a long time so I havent bothered. You can also get a venturi pump that runs off a shop air compressor to draw a vacuum to look for leaks vs wasting freon.
 

03cobra#694

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Welcome to my world. Mine won't take a damn charge. Going to need to take it somewhere, and that makes me mad,
 

Bdubbs

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Chances are if it's not blowing cold the compressor isn't cycling. So turning it on isn't doing anything. I'd try jumping the pressure switch just to see if the compressor turns on. It might just need a new switch.
I've never thought about that honestly. Heck maybe the compressor wasn't turning on.... something I'll have to look at.

@DSG2003Mach1 what gauges are you referring to? Ones for AC?

@03cobra#694 I hate taking my cars to anyone. I'll probably leave it if I can't fix it. But if I lived in Florida it would need it.

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patc84

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if you recharge it, put some dye in the system along with the refrig. That way you can see where you have a leak from.

My front seal on my compressor is shot, found that with dye.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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I've never thought about that honestly. Heck maybe the compressor wasn't turning on.... something I'll have to look at.

@DSG2003Mach1 what gauges are you referring to? Ones for AC?

@03cobra#694 I hate taking my cars to anyone. I'll probably leave it if I can't fix it. But if I lived in Florida it would need it.

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R134A A/C Manifold Gauge Set

you cant tell whats going on with just the ac refill cans. You can watch a couple videos on how to use em - just make sure all the fittings on the lines are tight, they might be loose outta the box.

if the system is dry you dont wanna jump that pressure switch and run it for very long, it wont circulate the compressor oil properly.
 

Bdubbs

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R134A A/C Manifold Gauge Set

you cant tell whats going on with just the ac refill cans. You can watch a couple videos on how to use em - just make sure all the fittings on the lines are tight, they might be loose outta the box.

if the system is dry you dont wanna jump that pressure switch and run it for very long, it wont circulate the compressor oil properly.
Appreciate it. So only one pressure switch? Or is there a low and high pressure switch?

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01yellercobra

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I believe there is just the one.

To be honest, I haven't had to do this on the Cobra. I did it on an econobox I had for a while. IIRC I used a paper clip to jump it just long enough to see the A/C would kick on. The evaporator under the dash ended up being the issue.
 

P49Y-CY

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neither of my terminators have this problem, but a couple of years ago my f-150 did and i was able to fix it sucessfully even though prior to that i had very little knowledge about it and never worked on an a/c system before. i was able to learn a lot watching youtube, etc.

i generally don't like taking my vehicles to a shop either, and i don't recommend it to anyone because it's hard to find people who are not going to try to rip you off. in this case, since i knew nothing about a/c i did bring it to a shop initially, but it just confirmed my suspiciions because they tried to tell me that the system had a leak and tried to upsell me some hoses. of course it didn't (held a deep vacuum for two days), and now almost three years later the system is still blowing cold after i was able to fix it myself. it was just probably a bit low on charge.

i believe you do need a shop to be able to evacuate the system though because it is difficult to capture it yourself, and you are not supposed to vent it to the atmosphere. they charged me $65 for that even though i hear some shops will do it for free because they turn around and sell the recovered refrigerant.

instead of buying a manifold gauge set, i was able to rent one (and the vacuum pump) from o'reilly/autozone. i bought the r-134 and pag oil from them.

best of luck with it!

 

Bdubbs

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So can I buy that ac gauge that @DSG2003Mach1 linked just to verify if I'm losing freon? I'm assuming if I needed to recharge I have to bring it somewhere so I'm not leaking any Freon into the atmosphere?

I'd buy a Pittsburgh vacuum pump as well.

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MG0h3

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So can I buy that ac gauge that @DSG2003Mach1 linked just to verify if I'm losing freon? I'm assuming if I needed to recharge I have to bring it somewhere so I'm not leaking any Freon into the atmosphere?

I'd buy a Pittsburgh vacuum pump as well.

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I redid the AC on my shitbox (compressor, dryer, orifice tube) last summer. When I was a tech, we had just started dabbling in it so I had zero experience.

It really isn’t as hard as it seems. Just seems like voodoo until you play with it.

I rented/borrowed the manifold gauge set and vacuum pump from Oreilleys.

Google is your friend but short version:

Engine off hook up gauges. See where you stand. You’ll know right there if you’re totally discharged or not.

If totally discharged, you need to pull a vacuum while charging. Again, not too difficult. Just Google some videos. A lot of Freon has dye that can stay in there forever. But if you’re totally discharged, you have a leak. Some leaks are very slow and you can recharge (properly with a vacuum) and get a good season or two.

If not discharged, you’ll start the car and bring it up to temp with the AC on. Pressures will change based on ambient air temp.

Maybe you can add some Freon and you’ll be ok.

If totally discharged, you’ll usually get a rapidly cycling compressor but it’s possible it won’t turn on at all. High pressure switch might have failed which will prohibit cycling as well.

Most likely you’ve just leaked down a lot and you have a rapidly cycling compressor. Most common situation with a “no cold air” complaint.

Those quickie cans are Kindof a waste unless you’re in a jam like a road trip.


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Bdubbs

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I redid the AC on my shitbox (compressor, dryer, orifice tube) last summer. When I was a tech, we had just started dabbling in it so I had zero experience.

It really isn’t as hard as it seems. Just seems like voodoo until you play with it.

I rented/borrowed the manifold gauge set and vacuum pump from Oreilleys.

Google is your friend but short version:

Engine off hook up gauges. See where you stand. You’ll know right there if you’re totally discharged or not.

If totally discharged, you need to pull a vacuum while charging. Again, not too difficult. Just Google some videos. A lot of Freon has dye that can stay in there forever. But if you’re totally discharged, you have a leak. Some leaks are very slow and you can recharge (properly with a vacuum) and get a good season or two.

If not discharged, you’ll start the car and bring it up to temp with the AC on. Pressures will change based on ambient air temp.

Maybe you can add some Freon and you’ll be ok.

If totally discharged, you’ll usually get a rapidly cycling compressor but it’s possible it won’t turn on at all. High pressure switch might have failed which will prohibit cycling as well.

Most likely you’ve just leaked down a lot and you have a rapidly cycling compressor. Most common situation with a “no cold air” complaint.

Those quickie cans are Kindof a waste unless you’re in a jam like a road trip.


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Great information thank you. So at what point do people need to bring their car in because of possibly leaking Freon into the atmosphere?

I've been checking out some videos and such on YouTube.

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MG0h3

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Great information thank you. So at what point do people need to bring their car in because of possibly leaking Freon into the atmosphere?

I've been checking out some videos and such on YouTube.

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Not much you can do if it’s all leaked out.

You’ll be fine. Trust me.

135 isn’t nearly a big deal as R12


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MG0h3

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Should I be doing this outside? I'm a noob with ac systems.

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You’re fine inside.

If you’re on a charged system and you just open a line, it can blast some oil out as the gas comes out but being outside won’t help any. Just makes a mess.

We’re talking about ounces though.

A good piece of info to have is does the compressor come on at all.

Regardless, grab the gauges and vacuum pump.

Using the vacuum pump to pull a vacuum and then see if it holds is how you check for leaks.


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Bdubbs

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You’re fine inside.

If you’re on a charged system and you just open a line, it can blast some oil out as the gas comes out but being outside won’t help any. Just makes a mess.

We’re talking about ounces though.

A good piece of info to have is does the compressor come on at all.

Regardless, grab the gauges and vacuum pump.

Using the vacuum pump to pull a vacuum and then see if it holds is how you check for leaks.


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Solid info .

It's been awhile, but I recall that the compressor does turn on because I remember feeling that "load" on the engine when I first turned it on.

I'll be checking first thing when I start it this spring. Hopefully, it might be early spring. No snow here and temps have been mild. Crazy winter this year.

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03cobra#694

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Good info in here. I ordered gauges and will be here tomorrow. My compressor cycles on and off, but doesn't blow cold. I know where the one port is, but where is the other?
 

big dad

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Based on my own experience in this problem I'd venture my guess that the fitting along the front R/S frame rail by the condenser is the culprit, it's the liquid line from the condenser . I believe it's caused by the engine torqueing over time and slightly twisting the connection. Don't despair over this it's not a big deal. My car only had 2300 miles on it last year when I had to fix it. I was a Ford tech that's retired so it was not a problem for me.
 

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