Am I the only one that regrets upgrading from the stock eaton ?

Bdubbs

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The car is mostly street driven and sees the track once a year. I would never run the 3.4 at full potential on the street , but that one or two times a year would be fun at the track. If it don't sell I'll likely throw it on there for a laugh.

Not running it to its full potential it might not be as snappy on the street compared to a 2.3 blower.
 

Phil04Cobra

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Not running it to its full potential it might not be as snappy on the street compared to a 2.3 blower.

That's what I'm most afraid of. I don't want it to be taking a backseat to 2.3 or 2.9 cars when it's dialed back , then what's the point. I have goals for the eaton so the 3.4 will sit on the shelf.
Maybe I should post it up on here. Possibly looking to buy welds if I can unload the blower.
 

Mustang289

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I'm looking at mods for my stock 04 MC. I'm on the fence for these two options. Option 1 - pully/ port my Eaton get close to or at 500 RWHP. Option 2 - bypass ported Eaton and go right to TVS Gen-2. I don't track my car much maybe once or twice a year. Reason I'm looking at Option 2 is at one time 500 HP was really good, now days 500HP is almost a yawner at a cruisin. I never needed to have the fastest or most HP car, but I do want to be in the ball game.

My concern with TVS, is first and most likely second gear would be useless. I don't want to run DRs nor replace the IRS with SRA, as I like to hang in the corners as well.
 

CobraBob

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The dyno sheet that came with my car says 490 lb-ft, and to the best of my knowledge, its M112 has not been ported. The primary benefit of porting is that the boost doesn't fall off over 5K or so--that means more peak horsepower but usually has a minimal effect on peak torque, which is well below the 5K dropoff.

Dave, do you have a 2.76 upper? If so, those numbers are consistent with a non-ported Eaton with a very good tune.

This thread intrigues me. Took me back to the three stages of my old '03 Cobra.
1. Stock with catback, midpipe and intake
2. Factory Eaton with the above, Accufab TB/plenum and tune
3. Ported Easton with the above

Of the three, I actually had more fun with #2. Can't explain it other than the car didn't feel that much more powerful on the street even though it picked up 40 additional ponies. I attribute that to gaining very little torque. So maybe in my head I was expected more for my buck. Now at the track, there was a noticeable difference. So if I had to do it over again, since I was more concerned about how it felt on the street, I'd probably stick with #2 and put the money spent on porting on other mods.
 

Nightmare302

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I'm looking at mods for my stock 04 MC. I'm on the fence for these two options. Option 1 - pully/ port my Eaton get close to or at 500 RWHP. Option 2 - bypass ported Eaton and go right to TVS Gen-2. I don't track my car much maybe once or twice a year. Reason I'm looking at Option 2 is at one time 500 HP was really good, now days 500HP is almost a yawner at a cruisin. I never needed to have the fastest or most HP car, but I do want to be in the ball game.

My concern with TVS, is first and most likely second gear would be useless. I don't want to run DRs nor replace the IRS with SRA, as I like to hang in the corners as well.
If you don't want to bother trying to make the power work what's the point of making the power? I love the TVS and the power curve it makes but if you plan to run family cruiser "summer" tires and expect to "turn" or make the power go anywhere but up in smoke there is no reason to put a TVS on. Just go with a pulley, tune, exhaust, intake.
 

TheFleshRocket

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Dave, do you have a 2.76 upper? If so, those numbers are consistent with a non-ported Eaton with a very good tune.

Yup, the car has a 2.76 upper.

Of the three, I actually had more fun with #2. Can't explain it other than the car didn't feel that much more powerful on the street even though it picked up 40 additional ponies. I attribute that to gaining very little torque. So maybe in my head I was expected more for my buck. Now at the track, there was a noticeable difference.

That makes sense, since the power gain with a ported blower is mostly in the 5K-redline range, where an unported Eaton will lose boost. By 6500rpm, my boost gauge has almost dropped to 10psi (it still pegs at just past 10psi--I bought a Hilton overlay but never installed it, and then lost it) so it's clear that it's not holding 14psi all the way up. I'd imagine that during normal street driving, a ported Eaton would feel almost exactly the same as an unported one. Maybe switching to a 4lb lower along with the port job would add some more punch to the midrange.
 
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sonic_whine2003

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When you lose to a 450hp Cobalt SS like I just did.....You get pissed and go from a lightly modded Termi to spending $$$$ on RST clutch, vmp gen2, and supporting mods.... Nobody in this thread that said they had more fun when the car was just pullied have gone back really.....just talk!
 

702lightning

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When you lose to a 450hp Cobalt SS like I just did.....You get pissed and go from a lightly modded Termi to spending $$$$ on RST clutch, vmp gen2, and supporting mods.... Nobody in this thread that said they had more fun when the car was just pullied have gone back really.....just talk!



haha truth
 

2003cobra22

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When you lose to a 450hp Cobalt SS like I just did.....You get pissed and go from a lightly modded Termi to spending $$$$ on RST clutch, vmp gen2, and supporting mods.... Nobody in this thread that said they had more fun when the car was just pullied have gone back really.....just talk!

That True I have had more than a few races I know my ported eaton would have lost
 

Mustang289

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If you don't want to bother trying to make the power work what's the point of making the power? I love the TVS and the power curve it makes but if you plan to run family cruiser "summer" tires and expect to "turn" or make the power go anywhere but up in smoke there is no reason to put a TVS on. Just go with a pulley, tune, exhaust, intake.

I understand increasing to that level of power suspension work needs to be done. I'm currently looking at R888s 18x10.5 in the rear, FTRB IRS bushing kit. With your TVS what tires suspension setup are you running?
 

Nightmare302

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I understand increasing to that level of power suspension work needs to be done. I'm currently looking at R888s 18x10.5 in the rear, FTRB IRS bushing kit. With your TVS what tires suspension setup are you running?

I don't have a TVS car currently. I have a twin turbo car and a 3.4 whipple car. The whipple car has coil overs 12-200 in the front and 28" MT streets on stock spring. It does not get traction with that but makes ~700rwhp on the corn. The twin turbo car has strange 10 ways on team z k and coil over in front and an SRA with viking shocks relocated uppers lowers anti roll bar and all that. It doesn't run but its the dedicated drag car with th400 and ~1300rwhp.
 

Coxy

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There's so many variables here that its all relative really. If it's your racer, or a cruiser that never gets raced ever. Do you drive it, or is it a forum warrior garage queen. And then what kind of budget is involved? There seems to be a lot of guys here that can make it rain, and changing setups and adding high end parts every week is the norm... Either one makes sense looking at both sides of the argument. I love adding more power to everything, but it's always more pain in the ass, more maintenance, and always over budget.
 

HPLouis

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This thread really has me wondering. I'v been trying to decide if I should mod my car but, I've got a vert so that pretty much makes it a boulevard cruiser. Also, it really seems like there are a few regrets when it comes to going all out and modding the car.
 

Skitzerman

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This is an interesting thread, in that it pretty much covers what people do with these cars from stock, mild mods and wild mods. The bottom line is do what you like and like what you do. Keep it stock or take it to the limits that your wallet will dictate. Your choice.
 
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Nightmare302

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This thread really has me wondering. I'v been trying to decide if I should mod my car but, I've got a vert so that pretty much makes it a boulevard cruiser. Also, it really seems like there are a few regrets when it comes to going all out and modding the car.

Most people that have problems are those that cut corners or those that think they can make 3 times the factory hp and not break anything.
 

HPLouis

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Most people that have problems are those that cut corners or those that think they can make 3 times the factory hp and not break anything.

This is true. Before I really started reading here, I thought all you needed for a safe 500 RWHP+ was a 2.76 with a good port and 4 lbs lower, JLT, MAFia, BAP, off-road X, magnaflows, and a hot tune. You can get to 500RWHP+ but will it be safe and reliable? I kept hearing how bulletproof the motor was but then I start to read about alternator issues, cooling issues, inadequate fuel systems, twisted input shafts, weak clutches, wheelhop and broken halfshafts, etc. etc.

It seems like the best thing to do is either stay stock or close to is (exhaust, tune, 2.9-3.1 pulley, lowering springs, IRS bushings, shifter, etc) or spend the money to bulletproof the rest of the car to go along with the motor (Ford GT pumps, SCT MAF, ID injectors, upgraded clutch and input shaft, SRA or upgraded IRS, etc, etc.)
 

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