Another build thread

[RBB]

I had a similar problem on one of my installs. Wrench light was on, car would die when you touched the pedal. I accidentally pinched a 02 sensor wire and it was grounding out. Blew a fuse. No codes just a wrench light.

We couldn't figure it out today. Checked around for wiring issues, nothing obvious to report. Was still running the original battery in this thing and it was on it's last leg, so replaced with a fresh one and no change there....wrench light still on and car runs rough, anytime you give it some gas and let off it dies.

Sent an email to Lund with a partial idle rev log, never could make it past the initial idle for 3-5 minutes and rev to 1500, just dies once you let off. He replied back asking me if we had installed the fuel rail pressure sensor on the aftermarket rails (of course we did), and asking how we wired the controller to trigger. Used the green/purple FPDM wire to trigger pumps. They're obviously running and we've got good fuel pressure (55 psi). I've also seen guys saying they used the grey/yellow wire. Anyone know the correct trigger wire for an 11+? Did we use the wrong trigger wire? Pumps seem to be functioning correctly to me. Key on, pumps on.

 

[mod girl]

We couldn't figure it out today. Checked around for wiring issues, nothing obvious to report. Was still running the original battery in this thing and it was on it's last leg, so replaced with a fresh one and no change there....wrench light still on and car runs rough, anytime you give it some gas and let off it dies.

Sent an email to Lund with a partial idle rev log, never could make it past the initial idle for 3-5 minutes and rev to 1500, just dies once you let off. He replied back asking me if we had installed the fuel rail pressure sensor on the aftermarket rails (of course we did), and asking how we wired the controller to trigger. Used the green/purple FPDM wire to trigger pumps. They're obviously running and we've got good fuel pressure (55 psi). I've also seen guys saying they used the grey/yellow wire. Anyone know the correct trigger wire for an 11+? Did we use the wrong trigger wire?

I had similar problem with my built motor (very similar motor build as you) for the last 3 months. Drove me crazy car would die and wrench light several tune revisions run like crap. I pulled car apart checked everything several times because Lund kept saying something wrong with car or tb. Sent tb back to get looked at came back and ran the same. I don’t have e85 up here (I run fuse 116 fuel) so I have stock fuel system just BAP and ID1000 so I knew my fuel system was not the problem. The car runs good now and makes good power finally after a ton of headaches.

 

[RBB]

I had similar problem with my built motor (very similar motor build as you) for the last 3 months. Drove me crazy car would die and wrench light several tune revisions run like crap. I pulled car apart checked everything several times because Lund kept saying something wrong with car or tb. Sent tb back to get looked at came back and ran the same. I don’t have e85 up here (I run fuse 116 fuel) so I have stock fuel system just BAP and ID1000 so I knew my fuel system was not the problem. The car runs good now and makes good power finally after a ton of headaches.

Sounds like we have the exact same problem, same tuner, and a similar build. What did you do to resolve the issue? It seems tune related to me....can't find anything wrong with the install.

 

[biminiLX]

What TB?
What handheld? My X3 took a shit and after a ton of headaches a new X4 from Lund fixed it.
-J

 

[RBB]

What TB?
What handheld? My X3 took a shit and after a ton of headaches a new X4 from Lund fixed it.
-J

VMP Twin 67, X3. There were no issues loading the tune, everything went fine. I've been running this TB for 2 years now with no issues.

 

[Catmonkey]

Will it restart once it dies?

 

[RBB]

Will it restart once it dies?

Yeah, it'll start back up.

 

[Catmonkey]

Sounds like a throttle body calibration, or it's drawing in unmetered air from somewhere. On a restart start it should high idle depending on engine temp and when it's going to the normal idle, the throttle body can't compensate.

A couple things I'd check. Make sure all the EGR hoses and coil cover vent tubes are secure and not leaking, the oil filler cap is screwed tight, the EVAP valve is plumbed, the oil scavenging vacuum port on the back of the supercharger is connected to the bottom of the intake and there are no open vacuum ports. If you can set the idle higher with your flash tool, you might give that a shot as well.

 

[RBB]

Sounds like a throttle body calibration, or it's drawing in unmetered air from somewhere. On a restart start it should high idle depending on engine temp and when it's going to the normal idle, the throttle body can't compensate.

A couple things I'd check. Make sure all the EGR hoses and coil cover vent tubes are secure and not leaking, the oil filler cap is screwed tight, the EVAP valve is plumbed, the oil scavenging vacuum port on the back of the supercharger is connected to the bottom of the intake and there are no open vacuum ports. If you can set the idle higher with your flash tool, you might give that a shot as well.

It does idle high on a cold start. As soon as the cold start sequence finishes and the RPMs come back down it starts running rough and idle RPMs are low, even lower than what you'd see on a stock cammed car, 650ish according to the data logs. Short-term fuel trims look good, so I don't think it would be a vacuum leak....we've double checked all that plus wiring and didn't come up with anything. The wrench light is on from the get go too. It's not something that comes on at a certain point, triggered from the start.

I'll go back over everything you mentioned this weekend one more time. I'd really like to be able to tell what the wrench light is. From what I understand, you can read it with one of the handheld scanners at the dealer. Unfortunately I'd have to have the car towed over there to do that.

 

[RBB]

Buddy of a buddy who works for Ford was able to swing by with his dealer supplied scan tool and pulled quite a few codes for us. All but 2 deal with the FPDMs....P1116 is engine coolant temp out of range and P1288 is cylinder head temp out of range. Not sure why those are throwing, but I'd imagine they have nothing to do with how the car is running now.

I know there are some smart guys on this forum....any thoughts or suggestions? Fuel system is return style now.

 

[RL1286]

It does idle high on a cold start. As soon as the cold start sequence finishes and the RPMs come back down it starts running rough and idle RPMs are low, even lower than what you'd see on a stock cammed car, 650ish according to the data logs. Short-term fuel trims look good, so I don't think it would be a vacuum leak....we've double checked all that plus wiring and didn't come up with anything. The wrench light is on from the get go too. It's not something that comes on at a certain point, triggered from the start.

I'll go back over everything you mentioned this weekend one more time. I'd really like to be able to tell what the wrench light is. From what I understand, you can read it with one of the handheld scanners at the dealer. Unfortunately I'd have to have the car towed over there to do that.

The wrench light usually signals a fault with the electronic throttle control or auto trans which doesn't apply. Did anything happen to throttle body while off?

 

[sleek98]

Your fuel pump wire is fine. either or, they are both full time power. As long as your not using the orange/yellow, that will not put out enough volts to keep the controller on.

 

[RL1286]

Buddy of a buddy who works for Ford was able to swing by with his dealer supplied scan tool and pulled quite a few codes for us. All but 2 deal with the FPDMs....P1116 is engine coolant temp out of range and P1288 is cylinder head temp out of range. Not sure why those are throwing, but I'd imagine they have nothing to do with how the car is running now.

I know there are some smart guys on this forum....any thoughts or suggestions? Fuel system is return style now.

View attachment 1464168

The 4 codes which deal with the fuel pump driver modules A and B
All seem to be related to either no power or ground to modules or lost communications issues. I never wired in fuel pump boosters but seem to be related. The two other codes CHT and ECT will come up if engine is 50 deg. or below

 

[Catmonkey]

I think your temperature faults are reported because the car has never reached operating temperature. I doubt that's an issue.

 

[RedVenom48]

A car will run like absolute dogshit if the engine coolant temp sensor isn't plugged in or has failed. On your data logs, what does the engine temp at the ecu say? Unplugged will default to -40. trust me, unless it IS -40, your car will run like it is now.

Could be FPDM related, but those temp codes don't set for no reason.

Is it possible you got the engine temp and cyl head temp connectors mixed up? Double check, could be a big factor in your issues

 

[RBB]

A car will run like absolute dogshit if the engine coolant temp sensor isn't plugged in or has failed. On your data logs, what does the engine temp at the ecu say? Unplugged will default to -40. trust me, unless it IS -40, your car will run like it is now.

Could be FPDM related, but those temp codes don't set for no reason.

Is it possible you got the engine temp and cyl head temp connectors mixed up? Double check, could be a big factor in your issues

Engine coolant temp looks ok on the logs, 190-195. Like Catmonkey was saying I don't think that's an issue.

I'm more concerned with all the FPDM faults and the wrench light. I'm totally unfamiliar with how the IDS software that pulled these codes works, though. Anyone know if it would be normal for any car with a return style fuel system to store those codes in memory? I figure maybe they turn them off in the tune so they won't trigger a CEL, but the dealer software can still pull them....I'm totally ignorant on that aspect. Lund is insisting that the tune is spot on, but he sent me a revision to try out tomorrow.

 

[RL1286]

Engine coolant temp looks ok on the logs, 190-195. Like Catmonkey was saying I don't think that's an issue.

I'm more concerned with all the FPDM faults and the wrench light. I'm totally unfamiliar with how the IDS software that pulled these codes works, though. Anyone know if it would be normal for any car with a return style fuel system to store those codes in memory? I figure maybe they turn them off in the tune so they won't trigger a CEL, but the dealer software can still pull them....I'm totally ignorant on that aspect. Lund is insisting that the tune is spot on, but he sent me a revision to try out tomorrow.

I'm not 100% sure on your car, but when working on other cars with mods. The tune usually turns off the monitor for that system and codes may still be there just no CEL. This would make sense if your check engine lamp is not on and you have active codes and not just memory codes. I know this has to be done, but you end up chasing ghosts when diagnosing a fault. Maybe Lund could let you know if the FPDM codes/monitor are made inactive.

 

[RBB]

I'm not 100% sure on your car, but when working on other cars with mods. The tune usually turns off the monitor for that system and codes may still be there just no CEL. This would make sense if your check engine lamp is not on and you have active codes and not just memory codes. I know this has to be done, but you end up chasing ghosts when diagnosing a fault. Maybe Lund could let you know if the FPDM codes/monitor are made inactive.

Heard back from Lund late last night. They overlooked turning a couple of the FPDM codes off which was triggering the wrench light and limp mode. Got a new tune file with those turned off and a couple other changes. Hopefully that resolves the issue, I was at a loss on that one.

 

[moncho]

Glad to hear LR dug in a little more and didn't leave you trying to sort this out on your own. Stay with it & you'll get where you need to be.

Good Luck

 

[sleek98]

Let us know how it turns out.