I used heat shield tape on all my wires
Another On3 thread.
- Thread starter five.slow
- Start date
I was very worried about the wiring on that side and this might seem like more trouble than its worth for some of you but now that it is done, it was VERY worth it.
I took the battery wire portion of that harness and pulled it to the front of the car. I then lengthened it, drilled 2 holes in my strut tower and ran it back through. That way it completely avoids the hot parts of the kit. I used a metal zip tie 2 rubber grommets and its done. Its been like that for over a year now with no issues. There is at least 1 inch of clearance from the spring/strut
Gonna steal that idea thanks man!
Going to as well.
Well I am moving forward and have just figured out I don't need solid motor mount, why? Because the down pipes are snug against the strut towers and the 2nd section of the passengers down pipe is resting nicely against the subframe lol. I swear if this shit rattles I will burn this car down.
Are the bolts to the T4 flanges loose? If not loosen them and you should have enough play to move the turbo inboard (or at least the drivers side since the passenger side is one the VCT connector). If you got enough you might be able to then slide the entire motor to the drivers side.
Also, by my previous comment about the wastegate seating, I meant the valve inside of the gate.
Nope no more play with the turbos they are pretty much maxed out. It is what it is I guess. Finished what I needed to accomplish on my vintage travel today so I got back on the car for about 4hrs. Was just gonna knock out the brake lines but I went beyond that and hit the intercooler and passengers side cold pipes ran. Here are some pipe routing pics and the brake lines.
And the drivers side
And the drivers side
would there still be contact between the body panels and pipes if there was not wrapping or is it resting solidy on the body?
Mine touches ever so slightly on the pass side and causes a rattle from time to time upon take off. Not a big deal to me and my logs never show any knock.
Not too sure honestly. It's hard as hell to see where it's all touching. Not like all the pipes are just laying against the car. It's just small areas.
It would appear that most of these twin turbo manufacturers have never heard of a "test jig". Either that or they don't know how to fabricate tubing. Probably both.
Yea plus there isn't much room either.
I would take a BFH to it and... massage... the piping in the general areas where they are touching.
If it wasn't such a pain in my ass I would lol. I'm not too worried about anything being burnt or melted so screw it. If I get false knock... I got a 10lb sledge in the garage.
Doubt it will. Late night at work and early start tomorrow so no work has been done. Sucks.
Ok I'm only a few steps away from starting this turd. Here are some pics of how to mount the brake distribution block.
The x pipe I have bolts up with no issues so I am happy about that! I have the relay box out of the way and mounted. Il have pics of that tomorrow.
The x pipe I have bolts up with no issues so I am happy about that! I have the relay box out of the way and mounted. Il have pics of that tomorrow.
Fuse box was a pain in the ass for me. I messed with that for HOURs and I'm still it happy w mine.
The wire harness doesn't like to play nicely. In waiting for my fan shroud to show up to verify that the box is actually out of the way.
My fuse box is crammed up against the electrical connector to the fan and the motor. God forbid I ever need to get in there
I felt the waste gate nuts start to strip so I got some real grade 8 replacement hardware. I suggest everyone do this.
Also got a pic of the relay box mount. I'm gonna get some thread certs to replace the self tappers.
Also got a pic of the relay box mount. I'm gonna get some thread certs to replace the self tappers.
Users who are viewing this thread
