Any driveshaft review?

Graboid

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I have decided to get some more parts for the stang instead of a new rifle. Does anybody have recommendations for aluminum driveshafts? Just your experience with hits and misses.
 

GeorgeInNePa

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DriveShaft Shop aluminum shaft.

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The Driveshaft Shop | FORD 2011-12 Mustang GT Auto 1-Piece Aluminum Shaft with CV 900HP 3-1/2 Aluminum / 1350 has no clearance issues - Ford - Domestic Driveshafts

I got mine from JPC, they matched Lethal's price. Either shop is $100 cheaper than buying it direct from DSS.

Zero vibrations up to 130MPH. Less clunks than with the OEM shaft. Getting the pinion angle correct is not as important with the rear CV joint.
 

Graboid

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Would you still recommend adjustable control arm to work the angle? I have steeds sport springs so it is sitting lower than stock.
 

Graboid

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I didn't think those actually existed, I had one on order for almost 2 months and it never showed so I just cancelled it last week. Sucks because it sounds like it is a good shaft.


That seems to be happening on a lot of parts lately. Same with the MGW I ordered on the tenth. But at least they make it clear that there is a wait with it. I can live with a wait but two months is silly.
 

GeorgeInNePa

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I didn't think those actually existed, I had one on order for almost 2 months and it never showed so I just cancelled it last week. Sucks because it sounds like it is a good shaft.
I ordered it from JPC and it was shipped directly from DSS about two and a half weeks later.

ETA:
I just looked through the PMs, I ordered it 2/29 and it got here 3/12, so actually less than two weeks.
 
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Hub2011

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I ordered a DSS Carbon Fiber variant through Lethal on Feb 22nd and it was shipped by DSS on March 29th... it was custom-built, etc, but didn't meet the promised 2-3 week window. Disappointed by the ship time, but WELL worth the wait after all--what a high-quality item! Completely eliminated driveline vibration issues I had with a locally-built double u-joint aluminum shaft.

Mine was packaged the same as the gent's aluminum version, above. And looked every bit as nice, just black(ish) for the CF material. Weighed 22lbs on a bathroom scale.
 

GeorgeInNePa

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I ordered a DSS Carbon Fiber variant through Lethal on Feb 22nd and it was shipped by DSS on March 29th... it was custom-built, etc, but didn't meet the promised 2-3 week window. Disappointed by the ship time, but WELL worth the wait after all--what a high-quality item! Completely eliminated driveline vibration issues I had with a locally-built double u-joint aluminum shaft.

Mine was packaged the same as the gent's aluminum version, above. And looked every bit as nice, just black(ish) for the CF material. Weighed 22lbs on a bathroom scale.

I need to check, but I think my aluminum shaft weighed 20ish.

The CF was supposed to be closer to 17.


ETA:
19.4lbs for the shaft and the six long bolts. Plus the weight of the adapter and the six short bolts (maybe 1lb-1.5 at the most.) That's on an old digital deli scale.
 
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5.0GT

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seank

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So is there a perceivable difference after installing, similar feel to say a lightweight flywheel? With some basic napkin calcs and some gross assumptions I get around a 57% reduction in rotational inertia between stock and a 20 lb unit.

I=0.5*(m)*(ri^2 + ro^2) = Moment of inertia of a cylinder with wall thickness

Where:
m = mass of shaft = 47 lb stock = 20 lb aftermarket
ri = shaft inside radius = 1.5in = 0.1250ft assumed same for stock and aftermarket
ro = shaft outside radius = 1.75in = 0.1458ft for aftermarket I assumed same for stock

I(stock)= 0.866 lbft^2
I(Alum) = 0.369 lbft^2

.369/.866 = 0.426 or a 57.4% reduction

Assumptions that are probably wrong:

Stock diameter = Alum diameter
Stock wall thickness = Alum wall thickness
Not sure on driveshaft wall thickness is a 0.25" realistic?

:shrug:
 

J_Dizzle

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So is there a perceivable difference after installing, similar feel to say a lightweight flywheel? With some basic napkin calcs and some gross assumptions I get around a 57% reduction in rotational inertia between stock and a 20 lb unit.

I=0.5*(m)*(ri^2 + ro^2) = Moment of inertia of a cylinder with wall thickness

Where:
m = mass of shaft = 47 lb stock = 20 lb aftermarket
ri = shaft inside radius = 1.5in = 0.1250ft assumed same for stock and aftermarket
ro = shaft outside radius = 1.75in = 0.1458ft for aftermarket I assumed same for stock

I(stock)= 0.866 lbft^2
I(Alum) = 0.369 lbft^2

.369/.866 = 0.426 or a 57.4% reduction

Assumptions that are probably wrong:

Stock diameter = Alum diameter
Stock wall thickness = Alum wall thickness
Not sure on driveshaft wall thickness is a 0.25" realistic?

:shrug:

Could you possible dumb that down for us normal people a little bit?
 

seank

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Could you possible dumb that down for us normal people a little bit?

What else do you need explained? I stated all my assumptions and the ones I figure are probably off. Not trying to be an ass just trying to see what's unclear. The equation solves for moment of inertia which is an objects resistance to change of rotation. The lower the value the easier it is to rotate said object. Therefore less work done by the engine to get the shaft rotating and more sent to the rubber. Honestly the equation doesn't matter much if the shafts have the same diameters an wall thicknesses. However I highly doubt that's the case. Also I assumed the stock 2 price to be a one piece.
 
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jymboslice

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I have decided to get some more parts for the stang instead of a new rifle. Does anybody have recommendations for aluminum driveshafts? Just your experience with hits and misses.

what rifle were you about to get?

I have a D.S.S. carbon fiber shaft, i love it. Even with an aluminum shaft, your engine will be much happier.
 

Graboid

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what rifle were you about to get?

I have a D.S.S. carbon fiber shaft, i love it. Even with an aluminum shaft, your engine will be much happier.


I was working up a savage .308 with 5r barrel. Now it looks like neither though because I have $1000 Home AC bill headed my way!
 

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