Battery Tenders
- Thread starter 1Kona_Venom
- Start date
I know alot ppl that flash a ECU or module on just battery power with no external power supply and get away with it. It can be done.( I have done it with my Ngauge) Wisely.......I dont think so! Can it be done with these chargers like the NOCO and CTECK in (supply mode)......absolutely.... but with risk! If you read the manual instructions on these units they dont mention using for these kinds of applications. My biggest concern with these chargers are the following:
1. Obvious safety concerns in this mode (Supply mode in noco disables safety features)
2. (Clean Voltage)AC ripple coming from the battery charger
3. Voltage drops that could cause the reflash process to fail (13.6 volts is based on 120V line side power to unit)
4. No adjustable (Voltage) with no display
5. No where I seen or read that says its approved for flashing or programming.
Will it work for a simply flashing? Probably. Is it reliable? I dont know and I dont want to find out the hard way on a customers vehicle or even on my own. The fact is its just not made solely for flashing/programming and that makes me uncomfortable.
IMO a Schumacher or Deutronic is the way to go for reliable, safe, flashing and programming. Hope this helps your decision. Please choose wisely!!
100A Flash Reprogrammer/Power Supply with Battery Support | Schumacher Electric
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They are expensive.......no doubt @ShelbyGT5HUN @Norton Just consider this please......how much will it cost to replace a bricked ECU.........Choose wisely!!
I've been using CTEKs for years with no issues. My boat and trailer dolly stay hooked up 24/7. The one for the Cobra gets switched from my car to my son's car as his has a draw we can't find.
I've left my CTEK hooked up while tweaking my ECU, but that's because the pumps run full time. I've always made sure the battery was charged before I flashed a tune when I using SCT or the like.
I imagine most people just flash with battery power.
I've left my CTEK hooked up while tweaking my ECU, but that's because the pumps run full time. I've always made sure the battery was charged before I flashed a tune when I using SCT or the like.
I imagine most people just flash with battery power.
i pull my fuel pump fuses and leave it on the Ctek
Good idea to get that amp draw down!
One of these days I'll either wire them up so they prime like stock or I'll put in a switch to turn them off when I'm doing something that keeps me on the computer for a couple minutes.
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I have 14 of them going right now. Some are well over 10 years old. No way I am that lucky, you will have zero issues leaving it on for years and years. 2 have been outside (under canopy, but essentially outside) for many many years, still OK.
I mostly use these
One is a 10 amp that I have connected to 5 or 6 extra older batt's. That is on a timer I run 1 hour a day.
On my boat, diesel, and Bronco I plow with (that all have dual batt's), I use a higher end tender that is at least 3 amps.
I also use a better quality 1.5 amp'r on my EVO8 and Stang, as they have lightweight AGM's.
Ive never been disappointed in my schumacher INC100 power supply and battery support. They have excellent products too!I have 14 of them going right now. Some are well over 10 years old. No way I am that lucky, you will have zero issues leaving it on for years and years. 2 have been outside (under canopy, but essentially outside) for many many years, still OK.
I mostly use these
One is a 10 amp that I have connected to 5 or 6 extra older batt's. That is on a timer I run 1 hour a day.
On my boat, diesel, and Bronco I plow with (that all have dual batt's), I use a higher end tender that is at least 3 amps.
I also use a better quality 1.5 amp'r on my EVO8 and Stang, as they have lightweight AGM's.
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