The thing I keep hearing is for Lowered cars the DSS is the best option casue of the connector!?
True?
My car is lowered 1.5" and I dont want any issues.
True?
My car is lowered 1.5" and I dont want any issues.
best 1 piece driveshaft
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Yes that is because they use a CV joint in the axle side instead of a Universal Joint. Therefore it has a greater range of angles that the motion is uninterrupted.
My car is lowered on Steeda Sport springs, 1.25" approx, and my DSS aluminum shaft lasted 25k miles / 2.5 years before that highly-advertised rear CV joint turned to crap
[video=youtube;V1-QbFWOV0E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1-QbFWOV0E[/video]
Looks like the grease hardened on that one.
I had a Shaftmasters DS on my old 3v and it had a vibration when I first installed it. I had to install adjustable lower control arms and make some fine adjustments to get it smooth. I'm sure the Shaftmasters guy will cringe if he reads this but with a .50 overdrive and 4.88 gear that DS saw over 11,000 rpms at 195mph more than once.
Yeah the grease was black, the bearing-balls were dark, almost black too.
DSS did right by me, eventually, and replaced the joint for free, but their communication still left a lot to be desired, and that shaft always gave me a vibration through the floor of the car from about 95mph and up.
Ironic that I bought it since I was gonna boost the car and race it down the 1/4, and because of the vibration I never felt safe to race it.
Now with the stock shaft back in, it's almost 100% vibration-free to 110mph
(I go to Mexico a lot
).
I recently installed a shaftmasters in my car. No problems or vibrations. It is a very nice piece.
Bigmoto, Surely there is a way for you to manage to get your car up in the air enough to get it out and send it in. If you can manage to install a turbo, i would say you can figure out a way to get that shaft out while the car sits there. Also you need a DD, can't be without a car for over 24hrs, but your car in torn apart in a field......I am absolutely lost.........
Bigmoto, Surely there is a way for you to manage to get your car up in the air enough to get it out and send it in. If you can manage to install a turbo, i would say you can figure out a way to get that shaft out while the car sits there. Also you need a DD, can't be without a car for over 24hrs, but your car in torn apart in a field......I am absolutely lost.........
Anyone on bmr springs with a shaftmasters shaft having any issues? I have a shaftmasters and love it. No vibration simple install. Now getting ready to lower car. Wondered about vibrations and such.
thanks.i see ford racing site said manual trans only.but all driveshaft listings say 11-14 gt and boss.
Factory UCA at the moment
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is the same CV used on their carbon shafts? Is the CV itself serviceable/replaceable?
It's replaceable.
They replaced it for me under goodwill warranty or whatever, I had a lengthy e-mail conversation with some Mr Personality dude over there, eventually got him to put it in writing that if I send them the shaft and it is indeed the cv joint that went bad, that they'd repair it for free.
So I had them fix it and I sold it. Good riddance.
They keep saying that the cv joint is $100 to replace if it goes bad.
Interesting how a shop I initially brought my driveshaft to tried calling DSS, the guy @ DSS they were talking to initially refused to even sell them a replacement cv joint, and when he gave in he gave them a price of something crazy like $330 !!!
I see you think you understand something. Cool. You don't.
You know, motor was pulled out 2 days ago, it's going back in tomorro. I tweaked on DS/UCA/etc for a while now(still serious vibration about 100-120mph). It took this long to pan it out, to determine that , when it came out of its box, that was inside another box, during UPS transport that maybe that's the issue, my TT came in so I jacked my car up, pulled motor, then got on the internet searching DS so's to order one so's to be here and ready to install after motor went back in(tomorrow). Maybe David will find something wrong with it, maybe he won't but 1 thing I know for sure is that having my motor pulled out of my car on my property, in front of my shed and barn for 4 days is neither "gutted in a field" nor is 4 days anything close to being "for God knows how long" so like I said you don't know anything.
I bought a DSS aluminum unit a few years ago. It had a nasty low speed growl and vibration to it right out of the box so I sent it back for a refund. That shied me away from 1 piece aluminum driveshafts for a while. 2 years ago I figured I'd try again but this time I bought a Shaftmasters aluminum unit.
Perfect right out of the box and tested to 160 mph with no vibration. They are less costly, simple in design and seem to have the least issues. I recommend them for those reasons.
Perfect right out of the box and tested to 160 mph with no vibration. They are less costly, simple in design and seem to have the least issues. I recommend them for those reasons.
Has anyone used the Dana kit?
Just wondering...as I haven't seen any mention of it. Anywhere.
Just wondering...as I haven't seen any mention of it. Anywhere.
So consensus is Shaftmasters is a great shaft? Was bout to order the DSS one, but the shaftmasters looks great.
Go with Shaftmasters man. Their shafts are a classic case of the best is not the most expensive.
I talked to the DSS a couple years ago about getting a custom 4" DS for my T56, Seems Frank was pushing a beefed up CV that would supposedly hold 1500hp, That conversation ended real quick when said with tax it'd be $1,000 .
I went with a $400 chromoly DS from Oliver's.
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