best 1 piece driveshaft
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Thanks for your reply
Luckily, I hadn't so much as unpacked the DSS shaft, was waiting for my Quickjack to arrive. I wasn't feeling too warm and fuzzy about the CV anyway and those vids posted sort of re-affirmed that.
So the Shaftmasters and a 1.5" Drop hasn't had any issues then?
Thats pinion angle is the only thing stopping me form upgrading to a new DS....hence the desire to go with the DSS, since I was told their joint was beneficial on a lowered car.
Thats pinion angle is the only thing stopping me form upgrading to a new DS....hence the desire to go with the DSS, since I was told their joint was beneficial on a lowered car.
This was the only reason I was considering the DSS. It seemed like less hassle. If someone with more knowledge on the subject could chime in for us both it'd be appreciated.
This is one of the reasons I am starting to dislike forums. If someone read this thread they would think that DSS driveshafts are all garbage and shaftmasters is the way to go. Do an online search for shaftmaster issues and you will find just as many problems with those as there are with DSS. Tons of people run DSS carbon shafts and are absolutely thrilled with them. I should be one of them when it gets warm enough to install the one I have sitting in my living room.
I agree, there is no such thing as a problem free part generally speaking. If you look around you will find issues with all of them. It's really somewhat of a gamble and then how good is customer service if or when you have a problem.
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Exactly. It just seems like there is no end once a product bashing starts on any forum.
This is the reason I like forums. People give information and experiences with a company so other people know to either buy their products or steer clear of them. It is wonderful! If you would read thoroughly, clearly nobody on hear is simply bashing dss just to bash them, they are giving their real world experience with the shafts and customer service. I am sure there are plenty of people happy with them. I personally read on many forums that their customer service is awful so I went with shaftmasters because people say it is great. Just because you have a dss shaft and people are posting their problems with them in their vehicles, doesn't mean you need to get butthurt about it. If you like it and it is problem free in your set-up, great.
^^This.
I originally typed out this response to the butt-hurt guy so it reads like that, but while I was typing, this guy nailed it more eloquently than my spew :lol: I'm going to post it anyway since I spent the time to type it:
I kinda felt the same since I had a DSS shaft sitting here and it does look like a nice piece. The same thought you just typed out flashed through my head; "internet know-it alls hating on something". I've been into cars and hardcore 4x4's for a couple decades (going 30 years), this is not my first rodeo so to speak. CV's are shied away from on the 4x4 side especially, just not sure how any CV can reliably hold what they claim especially when you add in sticky tires and aggressive launches. On the other hand spicer 1350 series u-joints are highly regarded in all circles. Both the Dynotech and shaftmaster make use of 1350 joints on both ends. My older fox-body has a custom 414x cro-moly shaft with 1350's made by a local driveline shop, back in the early 90's it was ~$300, HUGE bucks for a Fox-Body driveshaft back then. Like someone said no aftermarket part is sure fire, it may end up coming down to service. On that end multiple reports seem to indicate DSS being less than optimal/non existent (where are they in this thread for example??) On the other hand there is at least one other vendor here bending backwards to address perceived issues with their product. That same vendor answered a PM I sent late last night @ 4am this morning!! That is amazing response time no matter how you cut it. A driveshaft should almost be a car-life type item, not something you unbolt and toss after a few years. It would make me ill to have the CV clicking like that (that's what POS FWD cars do when you beat the hell out of them, their front CV's start clicking, the next thing is they physically separate!) after 2-3 years or 25-30k miles, that is completely unacceptable. Among other things my vehicle is stock ride height and will stay that way, I have no need for the perceived "benefit" of the CV being able to run at more angle (that isn't true anyway... google Tom Woods Driveshafts, he is a driveline expert on the 4x4 side; he has a great informational page).
Instead of "hating" on the haters (they aren't in most cases anyway, simply relaying their experience), I choose to use their advice to my advantage and also with a huge grain of salt, rather than stick my head in the sand and pretend there is no problem. The CV they are using/and/or the fact it isn't greasable is the problem, not DSS in general. I would have loved nothing more than to have kept my DSS, bolted it in and been done, but then I'd have always felt there was a monkey on my back with the CV issues shown here (and also examples not posted by any members here...). A $700 paperweight after two years of use, or a $1400 one! the CF unit (unless someone can show that CV is different/stronger than the one on the aluminum version; ahem calling DSS??) is not something I can afford in any way, shape, or form. Then to be jacked around on the service end if/when that comes up....uhhhhh...no thanks.... For my purposes I'm either going to go with the Dynotech or Shaftmaster. The Dana piece looks nice too and has all the same specs; same tubing, same u-joints, etc.... Maybe if your car is lowered, the CV holds more value? Really the CV is probably a band-aid (imho), when you lower your car, you should have enough adjustment in other components to bring the pinion angle back into line if you lowered your car "correctly"
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Ok, this has me sold on the Shaft masters. Thanks guys.
Who has them for the lowest price?
So apparently there are not a lot of people using a Shaftmasters driveshaft in a lowered 2011-14 Mustang. I too am on the fence as to which driveshaft to got with, since I intend to lower my car also.
I just installed a DSS aluminum in my M6 car this past weekend and I'm happy with it. I haven't had a real chance to cruise anywhere above 90 mph, but I did a quick pull to about 110 mph and it all seemed smooth. Car is on Eibach Pro Kit springs and uses all stock rear suspension.
Bottom line, you have a 1 piece shaft.... and a lowered mustang... an adjustable upper control arm is a requirement....
Cv joint or not, if you have a bad pinion angle overtime shit will wear out and break. Simple as that.
Personally i will be buying a Shaftmasters piece. My reasoning, pretty simple and quite frankly i don't care if it makes sense or not... 3 inch(ish) shaft that pins down to what looks to be around a 1.5 inch at one end... doesn't exactly inspire confidence in my mind.
Though the Shaftmasters piece has that boot at the end, not sure what it hides lol, still I don't want to worry about a CV joint failure like the many posts I've seen.
Cv joint or not, if you have a bad pinion angle overtime shit will wear out and break. Simple as that.
Personally i will be buying a Shaftmasters piece. My reasoning, pretty simple and quite frankly i don't care if it makes sense or not... 3 inch(ish) shaft that pins down to what looks to be around a 1.5 inch at one end... doesn't exactly inspire confidence in my mind.
Though the Shaftmasters piece has that boot at the end, not sure what it hides lol, still I don't want to worry about a CV joint failure like the many posts I've seen.
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Bottom line, you have a 1 piece shaft.... and a lowered mustang... an adjustable upper control arm is a requirement....
Cv joint or not, if you have a bad pinion angle overtime shit will wear out and break. Simple as that.
Personally i will be buying a Shaftmasters piece. My reasoning, pretty simple and quite frankly i don't care if it makes sense or not... 3 inch(ish) shaft that pins down to what looks to be around a 1.5 inch at one end... doesn't exactly inspire confidence in my mind.
Though the Shaftmasters piece has that boot at the end, not sure what it hides lol, still I don't want to worry about a CV joint failure like the many posts I've seen.
I agree that lowered cars, no matter what, should use an adjustable upper. I have upper and lowers going in soon. However, that CV shaft is pretty thick and it's solid. It's a 300M shaft like they use in their 1500 hp axles (which are not even as thick as the shaft on the driveshaft). I'm not worried about it at all.
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