Best lower control arm and why?
- Thread starter hyvltge
- Start date
BMR Billet because they are strong ( No holes!) poly ends for street use.
Just because there are holes doesn't mean it's weaker! It is engineered similar to a truss, and is very strong. And the urethane bushings would go out way before a metal failure would ever happen. Just because something is solid doesn't make it stronger.
There are lots of benefits to lighter products, and IMO better looking.
There are lots of benefits to lighter products, and IMO better looking.
Do you get much traction benefit from just running a better LCA (aside from lessened wheel hop), or does that mainly come in when you run the relocation brackets and a more agressive LCA angle?
Ide like to say you should give our Lower Control arms a shot. It's a billet arm that uses a pre-greased energy suspension poly bushing (lifetime warranty). Lightest on the market as well. We have installed them on all application shelbys as well and have seen only but the best for luck with them. Our Lower Control Arms replace the stamped steel OE Arms, and easy to install using basic hand tools. Our Billet Arms reduce un-sprung weight and eliminate wheel hop. Track-tested three-piece urethane bushings included. We have the Lightest Billet Arm on the market.
We also offer forum discounts.
2005-2013 Mustang BBR-Billet Lower Control Arms
We also offer forum discounts.
2005-2013 Mustang BBR-Billet Lower Control Arms
This. Both my 07 and 11 GTs hopped like crazy till I did the Roush UCA then it was completely gone and I ran the stock LCAs on both of those cars.
I've been watching this for a while. The one that piqued my interest was Kenny Brown for this statement:
A Kenny Brown Exclusive - Offset Spacers straighten control arms bringing them paralell to car center line, correcting rear roll axis
I think there's a good point made here. He also makes them with the poly on one end and the rod end at the other. While I like MM stuff and Bob's work is beautiful...I question the fact that neither fix the "angling" of the arm. If you notice the arm is not straight from mount to mount (to the center line of the vehicle)...this is what KB is correcting with his offering.
...and while we're on the subject control arms...I'm also wondering why MM or someone hasn't released a revised front lca to compete with KB's. Again, he adjusts for the lower ride height that most all of us have. Again from his site:
- Center Migration, Caster, Camber Gain and Anti-Dive – all in one complete, easy-to-install package
- Kenny Brown has engineered in all of his superb AGS geometry into the Control Arm Module so there is no need to add a K-member (except for weight reduction).
Those are some pretty interesting claims. If I ever end up with the front lca squeak then I would be seriously considering these or maybe Whiteline's revised lca bushing setup, but then again, Whiteline isn't fixing the geometry of the lowered ride height.
A Kenny Brown Exclusive - Offset Spacers straighten control arms bringing them paralell to car center line, correcting rear roll axis
I think there's a good point made here. He also makes them with the poly on one end and the rod end at the other. While I like MM stuff and Bob's work is beautiful...I question the fact that neither fix the "angling" of the arm. If you notice the arm is not straight from mount to mount (to the center line of the vehicle)...this is what KB is correcting with his offering.
...and while we're on the subject control arms...I'm also wondering why MM or someone hasn't released a revised front lca to compete with KB's. Again, he adjusts for the lower ride height that most all of us have. Again from his site:
- Center Migration, Caster, Camber Gain and Anti-Dive – all in one complete, easy-to-install package
- Kenny Brown has engineered in all of his superb AGS geometry into the Control Arm Module so there is no need to add a K-member (except for weight reduction).
Those are some pretty interesting claims. If I ever end up with the front lca squeak then I would be seriously considering these or maybe Whiteline's revised lca bushing setup, but then again, Whiteline isn't fixing the geometry of the lowered ride height.
I think BMR makes the LCA's for Shelby. They are also offset for proper alignment.
Sorry for the blurred picture...
R
Sorry for the blurred picture...
R
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How hard is it to replace the uca? And it completely removes the wheel hop? Think this will be my next mod.
Not bad really. Takes about an hour or so on jackstands. The only hard part is the bolt under the back seat is torqed to about 1,000 ft/lbs. You need a breaker bar and about a 4 ft pipe to get it loose.
.........I had to lower my fuel tank also....
That required a unique torx bit for the strap bolt(s).
R
I can't believe its been three years since I added the Roush upper arm. Man, time flies. Click on the "MM Extreme Duty LCA's and Roush upper arm/bracket" writeup on my sig...
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The Kenny Brown pieces are nice and I have the matrix system but at $750, he's catering to a pretty exclusive market for the front control arms. I know I won't pay that much even though I understand it's a good part.
What are the torque ratings for the KB rear lower control arms?
What are the torque ratings for the KB rear lower control arms?
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Steeda.
Steeda is one of the best manufactures of RR, and handling components for Mustangs out there. Steeda seems to be more known for people using their individual components than Griggs where Griggs seems to be more known for having a bad ass complete package in the GR40. Steeda is a Ford oriented company and not some butt f'in Fbody company that wants to jump on the Mustang bandwagon when Catfish and Fireturds go away back in the day. MM has dicked around in the S197 market so the hell with them also. All these people who knock Steeda products are just BS'ing haters with a bias for another product and that's one reason I'm so bias toward and defensive of Steeda because in actuality Steeda makes great products for the Mustang community, and I've never once been disappointed with any Steeda parted I've used.
If I owned a S197 Mustang then I would go with some Steeda LCA's BTW. I plan to run a Steeda rear suspension setup on my TermiFox one of these days. If I was planning to improve the front suspension geometry then I would go the torque arm 3link route, but the 5link is designed to work with the OEM front geometry, and I want to be able to run the widest front tires I can fit with a heavy Terminator motor and T56 up front.
Steeda 2005-13 Mustang Billet Rear Lower Control Arms - Made in the USA 555-4405 555-4406
Steeda is one of the best manufactures of RR, and handling components for Mustangs out there. Steeda seems to be more known for people using their individual components than Griggs where Griggs seems to be more known for having a bad ass complete package in the GR40. Steeda is a Ford oriented company and not some butt f'in Fbody company that wants to jump on the Mustang bandwagon when Catfish and Fireturds go away back in the day. MM has dicked around in the S197 market so the hell with them also. All these people who knock Steeda products are just BS'ing haters with a bias for another product and that's one reason I'm so bias toward and defensive of Steeda because in actuality Steeda makes great products for the Mustang community, and I've never once been disappointed with any Steeda parted I've used.
If I owned a S197 Mustang then I would go with some Steeda LCA's BTW. I plan to run a Steeda rear suspension setup on my TermiFox one of these days. If I was planning to improve the front suspension geometry then I would go the torque arm 3link route, but the 5link is designed to work with the OEM front geometry, and I want to be able to run the widest front tires I can fit with a heavy Terminator motor and T56 up front.
Steeda 2005-13 Mustang Billet Rear Lower Control Arms - Made in the USA 555-4405 555-4406
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Wow JRoc did I miss where anyone trashed Steeda?
Very interesting debate.
1. Poly bushings on body side and rod ends on axle side For stiffness where needed and less noise where needed
2. Offset correction To maximize traction (some have this some dont)
Very interesting debate.
1. Poly bushings on body side and rod ends on axle side For stiffness where needed and less noise where needed
2. Offset correction To maximize traction (some have this some dont)
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