Best Way to make imrc delete plates

[1989Gt.]

Hi guys i was googling alot of ways people make the imrc delete plates, and i was wondering what most people use on this site, and how they make them.

I have a set of composite plates and a set of aluminum plates which are easier to make the deletes with? And how should i make them use what?

And also would the composite ones be better?

 

[Tyler72]

I had aluminum ones and I TIG welded them up... Worked great. I have heard of people using epoxy, JB Weld, and other similar things, but I was uneasy with those ideas. I could just see one of them falling into a port and destroying my engine. If it's welded there's nothing to fall out! Haha.

Shoot me a PM, I could do yours for you.

 

[mwolson]

TIG welded mine, too.

 

[na svt]

One is no better than the other. If it were my decision I's make some aluminum deletes and sell the plastic IMRCs because people think they're better.

remove the blades/rods/bearings, clean thoroughly, fill the three center holes with JB weld and use JB weld or freeze plugs in holes at the end of the plates.

Despite what people say, the JB weld (or any other epoxy) cannot come out of the three center holes nor can it be injested into the engine if used in the holes at the ends.

Welding is an option but sometimes the plates warp and require milling.

I've probably made 30 sets of deletes using JB Weld or Z spar epoxy and none have failed.
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[1989Gt.]

One is no better than the other. If it were my decision I's make some aluminum deletes and sell the plastic IMRCs because people think they're better.

remove the blades/rods/bearings, clean thoroughly, fill the three center holes with JB weld and use JB weld or freeze plugs in holes at the end of the plates.

Despite what people say, the JB weld (or any other epoxy) cannot come out of the three center holes nor can it be injested into the engine if used in the holes at the ends.

Welding is an option but sometimes the plates warp and require milling.

I've probably made 30 sets of deletes using JB Weld or Z spar epoxy and none have failed.
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.
.
.
.

Ok So i bought the jb weld. It should hold fine? Im worried about it falling out lol

 

[mwolson]

Welding is an option but sometimes the plates warp and require milling.

Mine did...

 

[Mystic-SVT]

I used industrial JB Weld, resists more heat...working just fine for over 2 years.

 

[na svt]

I used industrial JB Weld, resists more heat...working just fine for over 2 years.

JB WELD Industro, the big tubes: J-B Weld Company - INDUSTRO WELD Product Information

I can't overstate this enough, ensure the IMRCs are free of dirt/grease where the JB weld is going to be placed.

There is no way possible for the epoxy to enter the engine due to the design of the areas receiveing eposxy. Additionaly, under boost the epoxy would be blown out of, not dranwn into the engine.

 

[Mystic-SVT]

Ok So i bought the jb weld. It should hold fine? Im worried about it falling out lol

Just make sure and clean the plates very well as na svt said and your plates will hold just fine. You half ass the cleaning and you will get half ass results. I let mine sit one whole day before installing them back on the car, wanted to make sure they were completely cured.

I can't overstate this enough, ensure the IMRCs are free of dirt/grease where the JB weld is going to be placed.

 

[Modular Racing]

The methods stated above are okay but the cost of a failure far out weighs the cost of just buying the Billet MMR plates, we built them because we had seen so many fails (people trying to make their own) and failures from epoxy breaking loose. If you have the alloy ones they can be welded but must be machined afterwards to correct for warpage, the cost of welding and machining can cost as much as the deletes unless you own a welder and a milling machine. Although it can work if done correctly most of our customers prefer the peace of mind at 7000 rpm or 15psi knowing that the epoxy wont fall inside the engine!

Good luck either way, let us know if we can help!

Here is a link to a special that we have on ebay for the IMRC's 96 - 98 IMRC Delete 4.6 DOHC Mustang Cobra Lincoln | eBay

 

[98 N/A 4V]

going on over 8yrs with my epoxy ones that I made. I also have a set in the for sales section. Aluminum and gasket matched.

 

[96snake719]

[QUOTE=Mod. most of our customers prefer the peace of mind at 7000 rpm or 15psi knowing that the epoxy wont fall inside the engine!

Amen! this is why I bought a set of these yes they are pricey but they are sweet!!!! was gonna make my own as many of you have and have had great luck with but couldnt bring myself to do it, guess its just a piece of mind thing for me!

 

[KCRN12]

I just pulled the blades out and rotated the rod so the direction of airflow was over the thinnest part of the rod and used safety wire to hold it there. I've heard of people using zip ties, but if you've ever removed a zip tie from an area where it's been under high heat... They get really brittle.

 

[Mystic-SVT]

^^^Leaving the rods in place to me just isn't a good way to go about this. Safer to JB weld them IMO.

 

[luke87gt]

Send them to Fusion Specialists in Benecia, CA.

Andrew specializes in Aluminum welding and did a great job on mine!

Fusion Specialists - Home

 

[KCRN12]

^^^Leaving the rods in place to me just isn't a good way to go about this. Safer to JB weld them IMO.

How do you figure that? It's a metal rod going through 5 separate supports.... How in the heck is epoxy supposed to be safer than that? Not to mention it's still using the same parts that were originally designed to be in there... It just doesn't have the blades.

 

[epracmetcon]

I just pulled the blades out and rotated the rod so the direction of airflow was over the thinnest part of the rod and used safety wire to hold it there. I've heard of people using zip ties, but if you've ever removed a zip tie from an area where it's been under high heat... They get really brittle.

This is what I did..no issues with over 30k miles and a LOT of nitrous.

 

[crazycarlo]

all the ways have been discussed in this thread. Do whichever way you prefer and can afford. Do you have a chance of epoxy coming out...yes. Does it happen that much NOPE. I had mine for a few years before I took them off and sold them because I was changing the motor setup.

 

[mustangsvt281]

The methods stated above are okay but the cost of a failure far out weighs the cost of just buying the Billet MMR plates, we built them because we had seen so many fails (people trying to make their own) and failures from epoxy breaking loose. If you have the alloy ones they can be welded but must be machined afterwards to correct for warpage, the cost of welding and machining can cost as much as the deletes unless you own a welder and a milling machine. Although it can work if done correctly most of our customers prefer the peace of mind at 7000 rpm or 15psi knowing that the epoxy wont fall inside the engine!

Good luck either way, let us know if we can help!

Here is a link to a special that we have on ebay for the IMRC's 96 - 98 IMRC Delete 4.6 DOHC Mustang Cobra Lincoln | eBay

i bought a set of these from MMR and they worked just fine VERY good product. THANK YOU>

 

[atlanticblueV6]

I just pulled the blades out and rotated the rod so the direction of airflow was over the thinnest part of the rod and used safety wire to hold it there. I've heard of people using zip ties, but if you've ever removed a zip tie from an area where it's been under high heat... They get really brittle.

i did mine the same way, just removed the butterflies off the rod and left the rod in place. working great so far