Guys who have had blowers for a while on stock internals chime in and let me know what amount of boost your pushing and issues if any. I am leaning towards a 85mm pulley 93 octane and torco for shits and grins.
Boost on stock Coyote
- Thread starter nycarpenter
- Start date
10.5psi, E85, 4500miles, 0 issues. Mods in sig.
1200 miles, 8-9 psi, novi 2200sl, zero issues. Same mods as above but a tiny bit less boost and I'm tuned on 93. I throw in some Lucas to bring it up to 95-96 oct each tank for peace of mind. The car is really rich and runs like a bat out of hell.
Keep boost to 10lbs or less & you should have no problem with a stock motor as long as you have a good tune
Jon Lund is my neighbor and I trust he will always keep my cars off the edge. Never boosted a non forged lower so here goes nothing
I am at 10.5ish lbs with a stock airbox and a 75mm pulley on my TVS. I have been boosted for 3200 miles. 9-1/2 lbs for most of it. VMP tuned for pump/Torco. I did get MMR oil pump gears installed (I did help some) by a trusted mechanic friend last winter.
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I ran 10psi for a year and I just upped it to 11.5-12psi. For now i'm running a mix of VP c20 and 93 but I have methanol injection waiting for a tune. If you're going to push a stock engine is has to have good fuel(e85, race gas, or meth) and a safe tune.
LOL...I get bored at work
Plus as you can clearly see everything in my Sig is aftermarket, windshield wipers are just stock
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LOL...I get bored at work
Plus as you can clearly see everything in my Sig is aftermarket, windshield wipers are just stock
You run STOCK windshield wiperes!?!?!? Your car must look SO PLAIN!
Lol, jk. I'm just jealous of all ur mods I think.
Its it the end rwhp you making that matters not boost.
It's known that boost depends a lot on the variable cam timing in the tune. Some tunes run high boost low timing. Some run low boost high timing. What matters is how much power you are making. Stay at 600rwhp or lower, you will be fine.
It's known that boost depends a lot on the variable cam timing in the tune. Some tunes run high boost low timing. Some run low boost high timing. What matters is how much power you are making. Stay at 600rwhp or lower, you will be fine.
I agree & disagree. I agree with keeping it 600whp or lower. But high boost/low timing is more of a shock to the engine than low boost/high timing. It might be around the same horsepower but 15lbs of boost will hit the bottom end harder than 10lbs of boost. I would think 600whp with low boost/higher timing would be safer.
I also think hitting higher boost with CAI rather than smaller pulley would help save the bottom end. I make about 9.5-10psi with 79mm/roush CAI. But boost starts at 8 and climbs up gradually to 9.5. I tried 75mm with airbox which made about 10psi but almost all that from much lower rpm. It felt like I was stressing the motor more.
Been mostly at 9psi but just recently added the CAI and I see close to 10 for 5000 miles now. All I can say is the car runs flawlessly so far, I kept the rpms to a minimum at 7000 and run a good safe tune , car makes a bunch of power for what it is I love it. My only recommendation is run the CAI with whatever setup you get , soon as I added that it seemed like the car smoothed out even more.
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Horsepower and torque are a direct reflection of cylinder pressures. Higher cylinder pressures = more heat and power. With higher power levels on stock internals, you will A) snap a powder metal rod or B) melt a cast piston.
Boost is a reflection of the motors ability to flow air. Two motors, same blower, same pulley one with cats and manifolds other with no cats and longtubes...header car makes less boost and more power, but is closer to the edge of the metallurgy of the components, causing the failures seen.
Cliff's: pay attention to power levels, boost is not as important.
On pump gas, you are correct, 550-600hp on a non-Boss stock motor is safe.
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