Broken Or Cracked Crank?
- Thread starter lawdude
- Start date
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z217/paradoxdenial/balacer.jpg
There we go...check this shit out!
There we go...check this shit out!
When my crank broke, the oil pump gear broke too. Lost oil pressure. Replacing rotating assembly out of necessity. Upgrading other parts. CNCing the heads. Costing $10000 to repair engine including return shipping. That includes $450 to disassemble inspect and clean parts, $1999 for rotating assembly and $2160 for short block labor. Reinstalling my parts and long block conversion was another $1575. CNCing the heads was $550. There's other stuff, but you get the idea.
I'm also paying Steeda to remove engine, ship it to rebuilder, and reinstall engine.
denial, you're probably lucky yours broke at low rpms. I wasn't that lucky.
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Upgrading springs.
My 5.4 Lightning motor with a BHJ balancer.
The POS BHJ balancer cost me a whole built motor. $10,000
The POS BHJ balancer cost me a whole built motor. $10,000
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I was given several options including an aluminum block. I wanted numbers to match so I decided to have my engine rebuilt. This configuration is supposed to support 1000 bhp. I figure if I have it tuned to low 700s rwhp that would give me plenty of headroom.
That and the rod hardware.
If I understand it will have LMEKIT16-4VB, which includes Livernois Exclusive Diamond Forged Pistons Diamond Rings, Locks, and Wrist Pins and Livernois Exclusive Manley H-Beam Rods. I stand ready to be corrected.
For some reason I suspect the Livernois dudes know the capabilities of the build. I've been talking to Jon at Livernois. I bet he could give you specifics down to the last fastener.
For some reason I suspect the Livernois dudes know the capabilities of the build. I've been talking to Jon at Livernois. I bet he could give you specifics down to the last fastener.
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With the 15 percent lower and your other modifications, low 700 rwhp will be very conservative. I'm there now with the FRPP TVS and 2.59 (any other modifications obviously). You would benefit from long tubes headers at your projected power level. I have the ARH 1.78" and have been very happy with them.
I don't think snapping the crankshaft like that has anything to do with the brand of pulley. That is caused by the instant boost you are getting with you (apparently awesome) setup.
Ok, so Ive been following this thread for days. Just my thoughts as I am by no means a modular expert. I do not think this is a balancer brand issue. I believe this is strictly related to high hp/boost application. It doesnt matter what type of vehicle it is, it has always been rule of thumb for a double key way for high horspower/especially boosted applications to prevent the balancer from shocking and twisting under load. I would like to see some mod lists and power numbers for you guys exhibiting crank failures. Would venture to say that we are not talking upper/lower/port cars. With that said, possible some balancers may have been manufactured out of spec, allowing less tolerancer on the press of the snout.
See my sig (which for some reason keeps disappearing so here it is).
2010 Triple Black - VMP: TVS S/C, Ported Plenum, 2.59 Upper, MAF, Dynotune 662whp 642wtq. L&M T/B, FRPP: Intake Resonator Delete, 4.10 gears. JLT Power Stack Air Filter, IW 10% Overdrive Lower, 60# Injectors, Lethal Xpipe, Magnaflow Magnapack Axle Backs & Resonators, McLeod RXT Clutch, MGW Shifter, N2MB WOT Box, Steeda: Aluminum Drive Shaft, Lower Control Arms, D/S Loop, Hood Struts, Adjustable Panhard Bar, Adjustable Rear UCA. Shelby Heat Exchanger, American Muscle OEM Style 19" Wheels (Black)
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